Back to the Marsa Alam region, but this time a little further north: Radisson SAS El Quseir. The diving school was the same as last years in Brayka Bay: Extra Divers.
Sometimes it takes a long time before a dream becomes reality. Sometimes a dream never progresses beyond being a dream. This time the dream was put to a reality quite fast.
What triggered the dream is not 100% clear. Was it the movie? Was it documentaries on National Geographic? A combination of both most likely. The lemurs in both for sure played a key role!
Inspired by the thought of seeing these groovy, wooly animals we started browsing the brochures and websites on trips to Madagascar. Eventually we found a itinerary with nice combination of site seeing and romantic relaxing at a dutch travel agent. Unfortunately for them their response was very slow (still pending actually) and most likely too expensive (based on the offers on their webpage). And, we found a local agent in Madagascar (most likely their local agent as well), who had a track record of 20 years of sustainable and award winning international tourisem in Madagascar.
They were fast and affordable, so within a week or so we booked. Another dream will be a reality.
Our Program:
Day 1 - Paris / Antananarivo B Welcome at the airport on the flight from Paris on Air France. Transfer to the hotel. 1 night at PAVILLON DE L'EMYRNE on bed and breakfast.
PAVILLON DE L'EMYRNE - A charming hotel in a traditional merina building of the 30s. A subtle mixture of the past with antiques, portraits of the kings and Queens of Madagascar and modern / design decoration. 10 comfortable rooms, all different, (amongst which 2 standard and 8 superior categories) all equipped with television, reversible air-conditioning and wifi facilities. In the heart of Isoraka area known for its numerous good restaurants, Le Pavillon de l'Emyrne is a place where you feel good. A little restaurant unit just for the clients and a warm atmosphere. An address with personality not to be missed. www.pavillondelemyrne.com
Day 2 - Antananarivo / Anjozorobe BLD In the morning, we leave for Anjozorobe primary forest (100 km - 2h30). Arrival in Anjozorobe, one of the last vestiges of dense rainforest on the high plateaux, is a source of life for the population and harbours an enormous biodiversity: With its 11 species of lemurs (Indri, Propitecus Diadema, Microcebus…), 82 bird species (amongst which 43 are endemic), 423 plants (amongst 65% endemic), this forest is a dreamland for nature lovers and birdwatchers. BOOGIE PILGRIM has built an upmarket lodge, MANANARA LODGE, which is ready to greet guests since may 2007. 1 night at MANANARA LODGE on fullboard.
MANANARA LODGE's 5 semi tented / concrete bungalows are nestled in the vegetation, hiding lovers from their neighbours, and facing the forest : all have double bed, en suite bathroom with bathtub, a chimney for cosy winter evenings, and a little veranda. Our glass walled restaurant with terrace boasts splendid views on the forest. But what is mostly going to amaze you is the great tranquillity : we are far from civilization, from roads and villages… And all the sounds of the forests, the screams of the lemurs, song of birds are enhanced; And at night, the Milky Way shines bright in the sky. You can choose from a large variety of short walks in the forest (we also bring you along for night walks to spot the nocturnal species). Discover traditional crayfish trapping or visit the local essential oil distillery... MANANARA LODGE works hand in hand with NGO Fanamby to protect environment and involve inhabitants in ecotourism. We inaugurated a school in 2005, and guests are welcome to visit school and make donations. All this efforts for sustainable tourism have been rewarded in 2005, when BOOGIE PILGRIM won worldwide contest DRV for ecotourism achievement.
Day 3 - Anjozorobe / Andasibe BD Morning to explore the forest. Then, drive to Andasibe National Park ( 250 km - 5h30 ). 2 nights VAKONA FOREST LODGE on halfboard. VAKONA FOREST LODGE (Périnet National Park – Andasibe) Located in an eucalyptus plantation, 7kms away from the Périnet National Park entrance,
VAKONA FOREST LODGE is the most comfortable hotel of this area. The 26 bungalows are spread in a large domain, they are spacious, with a good bathroom, electric heaters, mini bar, safe and terrace. Different activities are proposed to the hotel guests such as a swimming pool, horse riding, squash, mountain bikes… Cosy fireplace in the restaurant, overlooking a lake. Also a crocodile farm and a “lemurs island” on the site.
Day 4 - Andasibe BD Morning to observe the fauna and flora of the Andasibe Park. We wake up early, because in the morning, lemurs are very active, and we might spot the biggest of all lemurs, the Indri-Indri.. We will also take the time to visit the private reserve of the hotel, where a traditional Betsimisaraka village has been constructed : you will learn all about the village and homes of this ethnic group of the eastern coast: the orientation of the rooms of their houses, the room of the ancestors… Afternoon visit of the Lodge's private reserve. Night tour to spot nocturnal animals.
Day 5 - Andasibe / Antananarivo B Drive back to Antananarivo (155 km – 03h00). 1 night at PAVILLON DE L'EMYRNE on bed and breakfast.
Day 6 - Antananarivo/ Diego Suarez (Antsiranana) BLD After breakfast transfer to the airport for flight to Diego Suarez on MD314/366 07h50 – 09h55. Full day to explore Diego and its 3 bays (with picnic lunch on the beach) : Sakalava Bay, Pigeons Bay and Dunes Bay. Of course, we will also be told about Diego’s Pirates’ History and see bay of Diego and its sugar loaf. Picnic lunch. 1 night at Hotel ALLAMANDA on halfboard.
ALLAMANDA HOTEL is located near the harbour, by the sea, 10min from city. We specially recommend for the nice sea view and the tranquillity. The 12 rooms and junior suites are in different concrete buildings, set in a tropical garden. All the rooms are comfortable but classic, with A/C, satellite TV, balcony or terrace, safe. Swimming pool, a restaurant with a seaview terrace..
Day 7 - Diego Suarez / Montagne d’Ambre BLD Short car trip south of Diego (approx 45min), crossing Joffreville (Rest village for the French Army built in 1902) to visit Natural Park of Montagne d’Ambre: this volcanic range offers several botanical trails, crater lakes, great cascades and provides home for wildlife ranging from rare reptiles amongst which the brookesia minima the smallest chameleons, lemurs (crowned lemurs, sanford lemurs, fulvus lemurs...) and 70 species of birds. Picnic lunch. Dinner and night at NATURE LODGE.
NATURE LODGE is a cosy lodge, full of personality 10 bungalows only, blending in the vegetation, and all overlooking Diego’s Bay and its sugar loaf. Each bungalow has a double bed, private shower and WC and balcony. www.naturelodge-ambre.com
Day 8 - Ankarana BLD 3h by car to reach exceptional Park of Ankarana where we will see the famous stone formations called “ Tsingy ”. We will also discover the nearby bat filled grottos (with stalagmites and stalactites), underground rivers… During our walk, we will see Xerophyte plants such as kalanchoes, bottle-trees, euphorbias and are likely to encounter our agile fluffy friends, the lemurs! The Antakarana consider the Ankarana massif as sacred: in past, the Antakarana fleeing the Merina took refuge in the Ankarana caves and tsingy; many of their kings are buried there. Picnic lunch. 1 night on CAMPING.
Day 9 - Ankarana / Ankify / Nosy Komba BLD Continuation of the excursion in Ankarana. Then route to Ankify. On the way, we will see coffee, cacao, ylang ylang, sugar cane and clove plantations and cross small towns of Ambilobe and Ambanja. Final destination of the day is Nosy Komba (30min by boat from Ankify). Nosy Komba is a small volcanic island, with beautiful beaches and plenty of lemurs. If you can get out of your sun bed, follow the walking trails inland. A small paradise, a tropical island just as in your dreams! Nosy Komba is only 30 min boat from main island Nosy Be. Nosy Be is starting to get very touristic and busy: Nosy Komba is by far more tranquil and preserved. Dinner & night at TSARA KOMBA
Tsara Komba : Only 6 spacious bungalows (75 to 95m²!) blending beautifully in a lush garden, coloured by bright purple bougainvilleas. Terrific view on the sea, beautiful and inventive decoration (precious wood, statues, canopy beds, zafimaniry chairs and chests…). A charming, luxurious, intimate and one of the most exclusive hotels in Mada. (Closed from mid January to end February). www.tsarakomba.com
Day 10 : 16 - Nosy Komba BLD Day at leisure or relax. FULL BOARD at TSARA KOMBA You can visit the TANIKELY island, a protected marine reserve and a fantastic snorkelling spot: colourful corals, fish and occasionally sea turtles… A real aquarium! 18/10/09 Nosy Komba/Nosy Be/Antananarivo/Paris B Boat to the port, then transfer to the airport and flight to Tanà by MD327 17h10 - 18h40. Transfer at RELAIS DES PLATEAUX for a dayroom. Around 22h00 transfer to the airport for the return flight to Paris on Air France.
RELAIS DES PLATEAUX Hotel is the best accommodation available around the airport. 10 rooms and 1 suite, air conditioned, with satellite TV, all ground level. A swimming pool and a restaurant in nice gardens.
END OF SERVICES
Included : meals and accommodation as mentionned each day (B : Breakfast, L : Lunch, D : Dinner), generally on halfboard basis except in Tanà on Bed&Breakfast and in Tsara Komba & Mananara Lodge on Fullboard basis 4WD with driver Tana / Anjozorobe / Andasibe / Tana and gas entry fees in Andasibe & Anjozorobe local guides and entry fees in 3 Baies, Montagne d’Ambre & Ankarana boat transfer Ankify / Nosy komba / Port of Nosy Be all transfers Apt/Hotel/Apt or port touristic taxes
Not included: international & domestic flights with supplement meals not mentionned in the itinerary excursions and activities proposed by hotels visa, drinks, tips, personal insurance and personal expenses
We just returned from a fantastic trip to India. Retrospectively we are very glad we didn't give in to our doubt going, after the Mumbay debacle, like so many did.
Delhi, December 6th/7th
The trip started on Saturday morning in Düsseldorf, on an early flight (6:05) to Amsterdam. From there we caught our plane to Delhi. The first night we slept at the Saubhagh Guesthouse, were we would return at the end of our trip.
Agra, December 7th/8th
The next morning we were picked up by car to go to Agra. Our first experience of Indian traffic, which quite different than at home. Not only the fact that there are animals crossing/on the street everywhere, but also they way of driving. Interesting would be a good description. Having a driver is a must as the unwritten rules prevail the written ones. Despite of it being chaotic it never felt dangerous, as it's based on the 'life and let life' principle, rather than the egocentric approach at home.
Traveling by car also provided the opportunity to 'take in' India in your own pace. Simply looking at the movie passing by.
At arriving in the Trident Hilton we were immediately introduced to our guide, nick named 'TN'. Quite a remarkable guy whose presence at first was somewhat annoying, but he seemed to be experienced enough to pic this up and adjusted the next day (or maybe we were less tired after a good night sleep in this luxurious hotel).
Our first 'stop' in Agra was the so called 'Baby Taj' (can't remember its real name....). Interesting, and simply a teaser for the real stuff later. On the way back we stopped to have a distant look at the Taj Mahal. And yes, it looks like nothing else!
The next morning we had to get up very early (which would be the 'protocol' for the next one and a half week). Our guide convinced us that we should be at the Taj Mahal before it opened, and hence being one of the first ones in.
Here he showed his experience as indeed, we were the first ones in! This allowed us to take some pics without having a crowd caught on it. On the other hand it also became very obvious that the recent incidents in Mumbay had taken there toll as the number of visitor was quite low. Where it should be a quite high season.
The Taj Mahal is a very beautiful building. And when you visit India for the first time, like we did, it's a must see. On the other hand, it's a building. For us, once you have seen it, you've seen it. When leaving the site, looking back, again the feeling of how special is crept on me. Next stop in Agra was the Red Fort (later on we learned the actual Red Fort is in Delhi, and this one should be called the Agra Fort), a nice last cultural site before we started to move back to Delhi. Unfortunately for us the famous view (this is the place where the builder of the Taj, who was imprisoned by his son, had his last views on the Taj) didn't happen as the air was to foggy.
The additional night in Delhi was unplanned, as we were supposed to travel from Agra to Katni by 1st class night train. As the travel agent could secure the 1st class tickets (and we declined traveling by 2nd class), we were offered to travel by plane from Delhi (to Jabalpur). We stayed at the Gautam Deluxe hotel for this one night.
Delhi, December 8th/9th
Next morning an early start to catch the plane to Jabalpur (at 7:10). From there a 5 hour car drive to the Treehouse Hideaway in Bandhavgarh National Park.
The long drive was definitely worth it, what a beautiful and relaxed place! The 'resort' consists of 5 treehouses (we had one build around a Banyantree), which are located in a way that you have the impression it's only you in that forest. The actual treehouses are made of local material (except pluming etc), and are quite luxurious without being posh. More like comfortable 'basic'.
Bandhavgarh National Park, December 9th - 13th
After our first lunch we were invited to join for our first Game Drive. We were sat on an open jeep (Maruti Suzuki "Gipsy"), driven by Dani - our driver AND naturalist for Bandhavgarh, and off we went. The park entrance was "Kisli Gate" just a minute from the resort. At the gate a local Guide (appointed by the National Park) was picked up after which we entered the NP.
What immediately caught the eye was the nice variety of landscape AND the abundance of wild life. On is virtually stumbling of the Spotted Dear and Langure Monkeys (good friends who life in 'we look after each other' symbioses).
During this 1st Game drive we also saw a lot of nice birds (ie Egyptian Vulture), and . . . . . . . . our first every Tiger in the wild!! At first the tiger was quite difficult to see, laying in the grass at a good distance from the road. But continuing starring through the binoculars one saw the ears moving, the contour of the head and finally, when it sat up, almost the whole tiger.
That late afternoon we were lucky Dani is enthusiast / passionate about tigers. Where other 'Gipsies' drove of to assure they were back well in time before the park closed, Dani stayed around. Finally the tiger answered our curiosity, stood up and walked towards the road. She took a good look at us, crossed the road and slowly moved off. WOAHHWW (see the movie)
Being extremely late Dani's message was: "please hold tightly", after which we headed for the gate at rally pace.
The next day was a remarkable day. Being Petra's birthday we hoped for some 'extra luck'. However, this didn't work out as hoped. The day started with a very unlikely event: a strike of the park guides. The background wasn't 100% clear, but it had something to do with one of the park guides having been expelled for 15 days by the Park management due to 'misbehaviour', where the guides claimed he didn't do anything wrong, and was actually trained to do so . . . . We were told these things happen every other year and are normally settled withing an hour or so. This time it took longer and hence we had to skip our morning game drive.
The afternoon drive, however beautiful and with a lot of animal sitings, didn't provide a tiger siting, making this the only day we didn't see a Tiger! Anyway, better than the other way around.
In the evening there was a small celebration, including a birthday cake. The next days in Bandhavgahr were all according the same routine: getting up at 5:15, tea at 5:30, leaving the resort at 5:45 and heading for the NP. Entering at 6:15, a full morning of animal searching and watching from the 'Gipsy' and back to the resort at about 10:00 (the park closed at 10:15). Freshening up. Lunch. Back to the NP at 14:30. Some hours of game driving. Back at the resort at about 18:30. Fresh up. Dinner. Sleep. Etc. Etc. Some highlights to mention:
The next day the Mahouts (the Elephant 'drivers') had found a tiger, fit for a 'Tiger Show'. This means that they have located a tiger, somewhat off the road (where the jeeps can't get close), but close enough to make it in reach for a small walk of the elephant. The tiger normally just had breakfast and hence will be laying and sleeping with a full belly. This time they had located 'B2' the Alpha Male of Bandhavgarh!
On our last full day we had planned to head for the famous Bandhavgarh Fort. All had been arranged, but the event of the Hindi sect that had gathered at the NP gate had been overlooked. There 'guru' had stayed several months at the fort during his life, and hence his disciples made a pilgrimage to the fort every year. This year it was that one day we wanted to go to the fort as well. As we didn't feel going there on foot (yes, thousands of pilgrims walked through the land of tiger!) for several hours, up a steep hill and share the romance with so many, and hence decided to skip the trip to the fort.
After a last game drive in the morning of December 13th, we were picked up by a car to leave for our next National Park: Kanha. After quite a long drive over the worse roads (there was quite some work in progress to create a road!), we reached our next destination: the Tuli Tiger Corridor.
Kanha National Park, December 13th - 17th On arrival at the Tuli Tiger Corridor we were disappointed. Despite the warm welcome and the fantastic room (tent), we missed being 'in touch' with nature as we were in the Treehouse. The next day, after a good night sleep, it showed that being tire from the trip was the main contributor to that feeling. Reality is that we loved more and more every day. The excellent staff added only positive to that feeling! Retrospectively it was fantastic.
Where it went immediately beyond our expectations was the reason for being in Kanha: the game driving. From the information we had it was a lot less likely to see tigers and other animals in Kanha, compared to Bandhavgarh. Simply because A) Kanha is much bigger B) the population is less dense, but most of all because [C)] the vegetation in Kanha is more dense and will hence camouflage and/or hide any animals even more.
Looking at the density of spotted dear this was obvious, but from a siting point of view it wasn't (or maybe we were just very very lucky). An other thing that seemed to be was the higher diversity as we simply saw more species in Kanha.
This all showed already in the first morning drive where saw a Sloth Bear. It was at the right side of the road in an open forest, stood up to look at us and then ran across the road to disappear. Later on, talking to people who had visited Kanha already for 20 years, we also understood that we had been extremely lucky, as they had never - in all those 20 years - seen a Sloth Bear!!
Another animal, which is quite common but rarely seen, is the Indian Wild Dog. It must have been our lucky days, as we have seen them 3 times (!) during our stay in Kanha. However cute, the are quite fears. They hunt in packs like wolves, and simply take a pray down by biting chunks out of them while they are still running. There are some (mythical?) stories on Indian Wild Dog packs killing a Tiger. The story is the 25 dogs killed 1 tiger. Where the tiger for sure didn't go down without a fight, but killed 17 of the dogs before finally laying down!
The highlight of the Kanha experience was of course a tiger. We had already, against predictions, seen some, but this was very special. The Mahouts had found a female Tiger with two 2½ months old cubs. So we headed back to the gate, got our number and waited for our turn. In Kanha, to avoid a crowd near the tiger siting on a 'Tiger Show', they will only let you drive there when it it's almost your turn. This also means that you can almost immediately climb your Elephant when you get there! The tiger was underneath some undergrowth, and only one cub was near her. Initially that one cub disappeared immediately as it seemed a little scared from the big elephant (who treated the undergrowth as its breakfast). But after a small minute it came back, checked out the scene and started to drink at its mum. Luckily the Mahout understood how special this was for us and stayed another two minutes (where other elephants had already left!). I've tried to catch it all om film, not the best of movies but here you go (click here to see it).
After our last (short) game drive on the morning of December 17th, we had to leave to catch our night train in Jabalpur. Although the cabin was okay (a 4 bed, two upper / two lower, A/C 1st class, lockable), and the 2 persons joining us in our cabin were okay (a Lawyer from Jabalpur, a nice guy with which we had nice conversation, and a Soldier [we think]), the trip with the train wasn't. Petra had caught a cold from all these early morning (when it was close to freezing cold) game drives, and I had a major issue with motion sickness. Not quite sure if it was due to the Malaria prescription, or there was something else additionally, but anyway, every time the train stopped/slowed down (some 10+ times during our overnight 18hours trip) I felled sick and had to throw up. Not my idea of traveling: sitting in front of a train toilet half the night.
Delhi, December 18th - 20th
The next morning we arrived in Delhi. Our local travel representative was waiting for us and took us to Saubhagh Guesthouse, where Meera was already waiting for us. This was so much what we needed. A warm welcoming host, a bed and a simple breakfast!
The next day we could do little else than rest and sleep. Meera, her family and staff, made sure we had all we needed. Despite of it being a B&B, lunch was prepared and in the evening we joined the family (and another guest) during dinner. As Meera's husband was having a cold, she had some very mild curry ('picory') prepared for him, which she also served me. It helped getting me on my feet again.
The next morning, our last day in India, we felled better, and had to see a bit of Delhi. A friend with a small car was arranged (well instructed by Meera) and off we went. First to a Hindi temple. Quite a new building, but very nice. It showed us a bit of how the people of Delhi practiced their religion. To us it looked a lot like entering a local Catholic Church: the statues, the colours, the moves/gestures made while worship, the money boxes for donations, etc.
After that we visited the Red Fort. According the people in Delphi, the only Red Fort, and the Fort in Agra shouldn't be call like that. From our point of view, quite a bit less interesting than the Fort in Agra.
Our last thing to do was of course a Riksja ride through the old town of Delhi. An unforgettable 20 min's treat. I have tried to capture it on video, but with the smells of all the food and herbs missing (nice smells!) it is not as good as the real experience. (click here to see it)
After we had a very nice lunch back at our Guesthouse, we left to do some shopping. Meera was so kind to join us for this (for which we are very thankful). She took us to semi street market where all kinds of wanna haves were sold (fabric, small statues, etc etc). There was simply too much there and all at a very good price (having an Indian bargainer like Meera around helps a lot for the latter). We bought some small items for our selves and our family.
After dinner, we were picked up by the local travel agent and left for the airport. The plane left on time at 1:40 at night, arriving too early in Amsterdam. After a breakfast and some waiting, we jumped on the plane to Düsseldorf. From here by car back home, where (due to Patrick - many thanks!!) Jimmy and Griezel, our cats, were already waiting for us.
An unforgetable holiday had come to an end.
ply looking at the movie passing by.
That late afternoon we were lucky Dani is enthusiast / passionate about tigers. Where other 'Gipsies' drove of to assure they were back well in time before the park closed, Dani stayed around. Finally the tiger answered our curiosity, stood up and walked towards the road. She took a good look at us, crossed the road and slowly moved off. WOAHHWW (
The next days in Bandhavgahr were all according the same routine: getting up at 5:15, tea at 5:30, leaving the resort at 5:45 and heading for the NP. Entering at 6:15, a full morning of animal searching and watching from the 'Gipsy' and back to the resort at about 10:00 (the park closed at 10:15). Freshening up. Lunch. Back to the NP at 14:30. Some hours of game driving. Back at the resort at about 18:30. Fresh up. Dinner. Sleep. Etc. Etc. Some highlights to mention:
h Fort. All had been arranged, but the event of the Hindi sect that had gathered at the NP gate had been overlooked. There 'guru' had stayed several months at the fort during his life, and hence his disciples made a pilgrimage to the fort every year. This year it was that one day we wanted to go to the fort as well. As we didn't feel going there on foot (yes, thousands of pilgrims walked through the land of tiger!) for several hours, up a steep hill and share the romance with so many, and hence decided to skip the trip to the fort.
immediately as it seemed a little scared from the big elephant (who treated the undergrowth as its breakfast). But after a small minute it came back, checked out the scene and started to drink at its mum. Luckily the Mahout understood how special this was for us and stayed another two minutes (where other elephants had already left!). I've tried to catch it all om film, not the best of movies but here you go (
