Kuredu

Prologue

The story begins months and months earlier. We were supposed to go to Egypt, back to the InterContinental in Port Ghalib. Unfortunately the developments in Egypt made us decide to cancel. Alternatives: 9 hours to East or 9 hours to the West. As we already opted for Bonaire in February, we chose to go to the Maldives. We finally decided for Kuredu as we could find a good deal going there. It had been 8 years that we had been there.

September 26th - Arrival

The trip to Kuredu was quite tiresome, especially as I wasn't really fit when I left. Luckily all went quick and smooth. In no time  we are welcomed by the Kuredu's welcoming drums.

Jacuzzi Beach Villa #160, the last one before the long sandbank. Totally great! It all looks perfect.

The 1st lunch in the Sangu restaurant tasts really good (waiter = Minax). During the afternoon we get mail: an invitation for the Repeater Party in the early evening. After touring half the Island (yes, our room is located at its top spot!) and relaxing a bit more, we decide to took a look. The Tea House at the end of the pier is where it is at. A good cocktail, some delicious snacks and a tour on the local Live Aboard - The Monsoon.

We walk back over the beach to the restaurant to have dinner. Indian tonight. Very good, although we miss a curry.

Time flies ... the 1st day has already ended.

September 27th - Lazy Day

As we already agreed long time ago, the first full day will be a lazy day. In the morning we have a late breakfast. A bit of swimming in the lagoon. Check in at the ProDivers ".. since you have been here before you don't need to do a check dive .. " Jippie! The resort had left a welcome present in our room: a bottle of red wine and a fruit basket.

The rest of the day we slowly passed. We watched Russian couple having their Island Wedding. A cocktail. Dinner. A long walk ... and the lovely lazy day came to an end.

September 28th - House Reef

After a slow start of the day, we take the "taxi" to the dive shop. Putting our gear in the lockers and analyzing the tanks for this afternoons dive.

After lunch our 1st dive is on the program. We will dive the House Reef. Just the two of us. Just when I enter the water, I break the strap buckle of my fin. Shit, what now? Back at the dive shop they tell me they don't have a spare part .. but, without hesitation the guy at the dive shop counter borrows me his, brand new, fins (thanks Veit !!!).

The House Reef is a lot nicer than it was in my memory. Okay, visibility is not super, but we do see a lot of 'old friends'. The rest of the equipment is performing good, without issues.

Jos: 71 [min] / 24.5 [m] | Petra: 69 [min] / 23.6 [m]

After the dive we went to the local dive shop, to check for a new buckle. They only have a newer version, and the girls in the shop are not 100% sure it can work for my fins. We buy 2 T-shirts.

10 minutes later, at the bar, I decide to take my chances and simply buy the new buckle. Good decision, they fit perfectly.

Time to relax and have dinner. We have booked for a full day out tomorrow!

September 29th - Noonu Atoll

Wake up alarm at 5:50. Today we will go to Orimas Thila. That is located in the next Atoll, quite a boatride away - hence we need to get up early. The taxi at Sangu Reception is taking we to long to arrive, so we decide to go by foot.

It will be a relaxing day on the boat: 3 crew members, 4 fellow divers (Sebastian from Karlsruhe, Allen and a Swedish couple from Shanghai) and 2 guides (Reni and Marcel from Komandhoo), only. 

The dives are amazing. Many Grey Reef Sharks at Orimas Thila. Beautiful coral and clouds of glass fishes at X-Mas Tree Rock, so many it made big Stingrays disappear in front of your eyes. The last dive, Raa Fushi, was a lovely wall dive.

Orimas Thila:  Jos: 58 [min] / 24.7 [m] | Petra: 58 [min] / 22.6 [m]

X-Mas Tree Rock:  Jos: 62 [min] / 27.4 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 25.6 [m]

Raa Fushi:  Jos: 61 [min] / 24.4 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 22.0 [m]

Getting up at 5:50? Anytime .. for such a fantastic diving day!

// Nice to see how Seb was making small movies for his little nephew //

// Reni and Marcel are going back to Switzerland in a few days. As their 

replacement already arrived on Komandhoo, they completed their contract in Kuredu //

// Seb wanted to leave his email address so I could share my movie .. didn't happen //

// Swedish couple was moving back to Sweden after 2 yrs Hong Kong and 1 yr Shanghai

- starting a family //

September 30th - Round the Island

As this is a holiday we already agreed to, after the long and full day of diving yesterday, this would be a nice 'doing nothing' day. Well ... we did a little more than nothing, but not much.

After a long and big breakfast we rounded the Island. We stopped halfway at the O-Resort. The whole trip was close to 2 hours. Kuredu is beautiful Island, and improved to what we remembered from 8 years ago. The conclusion that room #160 is at the Islands top spot also still stands (lucky us).

After lunch I did a bit of snorkeling. Ending the afternoon around Happy Hour at the bar ... enjoying a Piña Colada.

Again, a lovely day.

October 1st - Full Day Manta

We hear and read, much to our surprise, that there had been spotted quite a few Manta Rays in the last days. We didn't expect to see Manta's this holiday (as the mail from ProDivers said: "not yet the season"). A bonus maybe?

After packing our gear and having had breakfast with "Sweden", we head for the boat. Elodie (Parisienne) and Greg (South Africa) are our guides for the day.

The plan: snorkel with Manta's at Fushivaru (expectations are that the current is too strong to dive the small Thila), 1st dive at Anemone City, 2nd dive at KFFC, snorkel again with the Manta's, followed by the 3rd and last dive. That was the plan.

As we arrived at Fushivaru Thila we found it without any current: we are going to DIVE! The hope was to find Manta's on the Thila's cleaning station. Finally, after waiting for 40 minutes .. the Manta's arrive! The Manta's didn't stay on the cleaning station, and after 57 min we were told - by the dive guides from the other boat that joined us- to end the dive.

Elodie didn't agree and signed us to stay ... "when we see Manta's we care about air, not about time" she told Greg when we were back on the boat. And air we had plenty! After waving the last Manta- and the huge Napoleon - goodbye (we saw 8 Manta's in total), we climbed on the boat after a 76 min dive.

Jos: 76 [min] / 14.6 [m] | 76 [min] / 14.3 [m]

After this dive the plan has to be abandoned. Anemone City, a deep dive, is not a wise choice after this shallow one. The guides pick a wall, so we can dive any depth.

My god, where is the boat going. And the waves. They are huge. In our 6 previous visits to the Maldives we haven't experienced anything close to such waves. Quite an adventure getting off and on the boat.

Jos: 63 [min] / 22.0 | Petra: 62 [min] / 19.2 [m]

After the dive we look for a more quite spot to have our lunch. It is still a little choppy, but it's okay.

Juvenile Manta's are often spotted in this area, so - in case we find them - we will snorkel with them. Unfortunately the juveniles don't show themselves this day. As compensation a small pod of dolphins swims along the boat when we move to the next and last dive: AAA Giri.

The dive spot is not that beautiful, but has a lots of fish. Unfortunately Petra doesn't feel too well and can't really enjoy the dive.

Jos: 61 [min] / 22.3 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 20.1 [m]

We had asked if we could do a Scooter dive (s we remember from Egypt it is lots of fun), and Elodie confirmed we could, but we decided on another plan. Tomorrow: Holiday. The day after tomorrow: back the the Noonu Atoll!

We ended the day with another lovely diner at the Sangu restaurant, followed by a movie from the ProDiver Team. Another great day came to an end.

October 2nd - Jumping

As planned, today will be a holiday. Sleep in late, a long breakfast. Some reading. Ooh .. time for lunch already?! Up and down to the dive shop to check next days planning. Slowly, but surely, the day passes by.

At Sun Set we try to make some "jumping" pictures. Not that easy with a point-and-shoot camera. The delay is almost every time too long, making us standing on the ground - in funny posses - already before it takes a picture. Finally we have a few shots that are worth keeping.

October 3rd - Grey Reef Shark TV

5:50 beep beep. Pfew, it's early. Grab our stuff and to the dive shop (walking). Our Guide of the day is Karola. Also Sven, the videographer, joins. On the boat mainly Germans (male) and a British couple.

After almost 2 hours we reach Orimas Thila. The visibility is good. The sharks are home ... but move to the other side of the Thila when we arrive. Some swimming against the current later we arrive there as well. Let the show begin!

For more than half an hour 8 Grey Reef Sharks keep cruising up and down the reef in front of us. This is SUPER! An Eagle Ray joins us to watch the show as well. Nice bonus.

Jos: 65 [min] / 22.3 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 21.0 [m]

After the dive we are chitchatting with Karola. Despite of her perfect German, she had never been to Germany. She is from Namibia. Sven, also fluent in German, happens to be from South Africa.

// The German guy next to me recognizes the "Aegir" bag we have. He dives their local pool in the Netherlands (Bosmolenplas) almost every weekend. His name is Klaus and his is from Mönchengladbach //

Second dive is again at X-Mas Tree Rock. This reef is how you imagine a perfect reef to look like. Beautiful coral and packed with fish. Next to Orimas Thila our main reason to return ... this reef is like flying in a dream!

Jos: 62 [min] / 29.3 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 26.8 [m]

Lunch and than the last dive of the day: Raa Fushi. The wall is again gorgeous, but it's a pity this is the 3rd dive. Earlier in the day, with higher and better light, this wall must be even better.

Jos: 60 [min] / 19.9 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 20.7 [m]

 Back at our room we find that the Sangu restaurant is booked out. The standard Kaomas it has to be than. It is very fine, even more choice, but tomorrow we are trying Sangu again. (much) Closer to our room and (much) more romantic.

Time to sleep, it has been a long day ... 

October 4th - X-Press

The "Classic" is on the program today: Kuredu X-press. Our boat picks up the 2-tanks (Klaus and Markus), as well as the single dive group (us). As the dive site is just of the island the single dive group is disembarked during the safety interval of the 2-tank group.

Before we arrived at Kuredu we had read reviews with quite a variety of comments about the X-Press. Ranging from "they are all gone" to "we have seen sharks". One hour and 5 Grey Reef Sharks later, we are sure: they are still around! Also the Eagle Rays still pass by.

Jos: 62 [min] / 23.6 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 21.7 [m]

Due to the outgoing (Atoll -> Sea) current, the visibility wasn't that great, but at least we have seen them!

The rest of the we take it slow ... ended with a lovely cocktail at the Sangu Bar: Shark Attack.

// Funny. We brought quite some books, but neither of us has read a letter.

Relaxing has priority over reading it seems //

October 5th - 2-Tank

After a 10 min walk over the white beach and good breakfast at Kaomas we head for the dive shop. "Tauchst du alein heute" says Klaus. Hmmm ... Petra is not on the list. A small hint to Karola, our guide for the day, and Petra can join.

The 1st dive site is The Peak, a nice site with, again, some Grey Reef Sharks.

Jos: 61 [min] / 30.0 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 28.4 [m]

// Where we were used to seeing only White Tip Reef Sharks in the more southern Ari Atoll, over here in the Lhavyani Atoll the vast majority of the sharks are Grey Reef Sharks // 

As the British Couple didn't see Manta's yet, we make a detour to enable them to snorkel with the Manta's. We see 3 Manta's.

Due to that detour the 2nd dive, Maa Giri, starts quite late ... due to which we are back on the island only just in time for lunch.

Jos: 62 [min] / 23.6 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 20.4 [m]

Cleaning and washing after lunch then. We ask again for a Scooter Dive (as the British Couple did that today at Peak and saw many many Eagle Rays and Sharks ... up close), but they didn't have a spare guide to join us tomorrow.

Okay. Than tomorrow will be a relaxing one-dive day then.

October 6th - Green Turtles

The changed the schedule for a change: relaxing in the morning and diving in the afternoon. Halfway through the morning I suddenly realize we forgot to book the Sangu Restaurant for today: "sorry sir, we are fully booked". Also the "O" Restaurant was booked out. Pity, but as we had planned to go to the video show at the dive shop we had to go the Koamas direction anyway.

After lunch we stroll over the beach towards the dive shop. The other "Classic", The Caves. is on the program today. 13 Divers on the boat, guide is Fabrice. The other guide, Yafees, dives with a smaller team as well. The dive is great, the viz is super and the dive site is much better and more beautiful than I remember it. The huge Green Turtles are still around, sleeping in the small caves in the wall. One after another they go up to the surface for a breath of air. It feel like I am in the middle of Turtle Airport.

Jos: 63 [min] / 21.6 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 20.5 [m]

In the evening, after the cocktail and dinner, we decide not to wait for the ProDivers video. We are tired. We'll see the next updates on YouTube (sorry Sven).

Another 2-Tank tomorrow. From the (lack off) notifications on the board it seems the Manta's are gone .. we'll see tomorrow.

October 7th - Napoleon

Ai. 15 Divers and only 1 guide. That's a full boat! We go (again) to Fushivaru Thila. Last chance for Manta. On arrival we see them at the surface, but that's no guarantee we see them during the dive.

Or .. . Yes. At the beginning of the dive we spot one. Petra spots a second Manta. From there we wait wait and wait on the cleaning station, but no more Manta. We do see the big Napoleon again (at least I think it is the same one). He lays side by side with Petra on the reef (almost arm in arm). A little later I position myself also next to him. I can see how the cleaner fish are doing their job. The Napoleon even opens his gills .. I can see right through him. And that so close by i could easily touch him .. if I wanted. I see the camera starts to fog up heavily.

Jos: 64 [min] / 13.7 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 13.4 [m]

Back on the boat I see the camera housing is quit wet inside! I try dry it a little while on the boat, but that doesn't really work nor help. Hence the 2nd dive will be without camera.

Due to the current we quickly loose the group. So nice, to dive just with the 2 of us. At the end of the dive we hear Yafees' shaker. He found a Nurse Shark on the reef. Nice end of the dive.

Jos: 62 [min] / 19.5 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 16.0 [m]

Back at the room the camera is in much worse condition than I thought. Probably it died .. .

October 8th - Last Diving Day

Last night the room boy brought us an envelope. O shit, I hope they didn't make a mistake in our check out date. No, it's a letter from ProDivers. The Scooter Dive for the afternoon wasn't possible. They rescheduled us to the 2-Tank boat and will bring the Scooters. If the current allows we will be able to use them.

Small panic in the morning: no beach towels. A quick ring to house keeping and a few minutes later our room boy pops up with fresh ones.

Our Scooter Guide is Darron, overall Guide is Veit. half way to the dive site some Manta's are spotted. Quickly grab the snorkel gear and in the water to enjoy a last few minutes with these gently giants. Arriving at the channel it doesn't look good. Darron, to be sure, makes a current check. But, no, the Scooter Dive is off. The current is in the wrong direction. No disaster, the dive is very very nice, and much different than a week ago.

Jos: 61 [min] / 26.5 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 24.1 [m]

We return to Kuredu as new couple isn't comfortable in their 5mm wetsuite (to buoyant - extra weight can't fix it?). They are offered a shorty.

"It's your last dive, any preference?" Hmmm, let's do X-Press again. Even though we don't see any Grey Reef Sharks this time, it was a good choice. For minutes an Eagle Ray hangs next to us on the reef. Viz is not good, as it is out again. Around the corner it clears up and the viz is stunning. The current picks us up and we fly over the reef. Napoleon after Napoleon passes by, at one point 3 together. It was a very nice dive .. pity it was the last one.

Jos: 62 [min] / 23.0 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 20.8 [m]

On the way back to the island a pod of at least 50 Spinner Dolphins escort us back. What a joy to watch.

// Strange?! i didn't miss my camera at all during the dive?! //

Later that afternoon, what was about to happen for days, really happened. We locked ourselves out of our room. Easily corrected by the friendly staff .. but stupid from us of course.

October 9th - Last Day in Paradise

Man .. time flies .. . The inevitable last day had arrived. Still some "Things To Do": 1) Book the Sangu Restaurant 2) Check the bill at the dive shop 3) Pay 4) Clear our locker and pick up our dive gear.

Task #1 is easy, it takes some time to get through to reception, but than it is completed .. successfully. After a long and good breakfast, and a coffee, we head for the dive shop. Task #2. The bill is impressive, but correct. Task #4 was not too much effort.

// When packing our gear we run into Veit. He had looked up the fish we saw at the safety stop yesterday, and both didn't recognize. The were Rainbow Runners, the fish we had for lunch every day on the boat during a full day trip. //

At the dive shop we ask to put on last weeks video. Also the footage from our trip to the Noonu Atoll is included. Petra seems to be the lead character in the video. Also nice to see myself under water. I decide to buy the video. As Sven has a day off he can't manage to burn a disk, but he'll send me a link through the mail so I can download it. 

Before lunch a lost puddle in the lagoon together. Lovely. After lunch and coffee it is time for Task #3 .... .

Back. A shower. To the Sangu Bar for my last Mojito of this holiday. Before dinner we quickly check our flight time for tomorrow: 5:40 .. oef that's early, but at least no stress at the International Airport, as we will arrive well in time.

As promised Nimax had prepared a beautiful decorated at the beach. The last dinner tasted, like all before, very very good.

Back at the room our room boy had also made an effort to make an impression. The whole bed was decorated with colorful flowers.

Another few hours of sleep, and than we have to leave Paradise behind .. 

*******************************

We felt bad, having had to cancel Egypt. And despite the good deal from Alltours (AI at HB price) we weren't 100% we were making the right decision going to Kuredu.

Retrospectively we couldn't have made a better choice! This holiday was really FANTASTIC!

The Maldives haven't seen the last of us .. 

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It's an expensive addiction .... but a beautiful one!
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Positano - 2013

Positano - May 19th

O boy, it's still very early. The alarm rings at 06:30, where we went to bed at 01:00 due to the Eurovision Song Contest last night. A slow breakfast and than off to Brussels Airport. Well in time we arrive (no surprise there). The flight is 15 minutes delayed, but we still arrive as planned in Naples Airport. The luggage takes forever to arrive (knowing that Brussels just ended a weeks strike of the ground staff this was quite nerve wrecking). "Deja vu". No driver waiting for us. After waiting 15 minutes and grabbing a quick sandwich I call Tiziana. "Petra and Jos to the Information Desk". Out of thin air the driver appears?!

In a private Mercedes (?!) we drive all the way to Positano, and we arrive about an hour later. Tiziana welcomes us with open arms and three big kisses each. The Wifi password is still the same .. feels like coming home.

An hour in the spring sun on the terrace .. man did we miss her!

Just lazy - May 20th

Not much to say about today. Wake up late, long breakfast. Strolling the streets of Positano. Lunch at the smaller beach - Spiaggia del Fornillo. (Window) Shopping. Strolling. Dining.

What a lovely day!

Anacapri - May 21st

We take the Jetfoil to Capri in the morning. On arrival we decide to go to the top now the weather is still good (a very good choice we find out later that day). From the Marina Grande we take the Funicolare to Capri, where we get on the bus to Anacapri, and finally the chairlift to the top of Mount Solaro. The highest point of the Island of Capri. What a view! Not only can you see all around Capri, in the blue Mediterranean Sea, but also the the Gulf of Naples and the Vesuvio. Some pictures and down we go, back to Anacapri.

The recommended restaurant was closed this day, so we end up at another one a little further on a small square. The food tastes good.

Back to Capri is a bigger challenge we find out. All the buses are packed on arrival and all pass by without stopping. The line only gets smaller because some give up and some start walking to an earlier bus stop. "5 Euro per person, 4 sharing" I hear a taxi driver of an open "limousine" say. An older Indonesian couple (actually from New Zealand) joins us, and of we go. In no time we are back in Capri.

We wander the streets of Capri and end up at the amazing view at the Gardens of Villa Krupp. Little later it starts to rain ... and doesn't stop raining anymore.

Pooring Rain - May 22nd

The weather forecasts are not good (60% chance of rain / 20mm) but we give it a go any way. Tiziana provides us the Beach Towels and an umbrella, and we walk the 200+ steps down to the main beach - Spiaggia Grande. The sky is blue, the sun shines, only some clouds in the distance. Two sun beds and a parasol are arranged .. time to enjoy the sun and the beach.

After some gushes of wind the beach boy comes and closes the umbrella. "Too dangerous, only 5 minutes". Ten minutes later I open up the umbrella. Way too hot for me without. The beach boys warning wasn't a joke. Another wind gush and off our umbrella went, landing an odd 15 meters further. Good thing it isn't busy today.

The clouds become bigger and darker. The sun disappears. And than 'someone' switches on a big big shower. We think we are smart, hiding under our umbrella, but the rain comes right through after less then a minute! We hide under the parasol, as the people next to us do. And than the shower is switched off.

We, our towels and my shoes are all wet. So what now? Lunch? Back to our B&B? First to the toilet. Hardly arriving there it starts again. This time even with hailstones.

Once the shower clears the skies open up again. We decide to stay. "New York" (the 2 retired couples in front off us) are also still there. After drying a bit up in the sun we go for lunch at Lo Guarrancino. A beautiful view on the small beach and the sea. The food is delicious.

Back on the main beach we have the best weather ever. New York didn't give up either. Slowly the beach is getting busier. The sun is so nice that I even try the sea. Damn cold, but very nice.

At 17:30 the sky closes again. Let's call it a day.

Back at our room, we decide to have dinner at the restaurant we were recommended to go to last night: Bruno. Yesterday we passed on it as it was too cold to eat outside there. Today the nice tables have already been reserved. Lunch was good .. so we go back to Lo Guarrancino. Jummy! Rocket salad with Bresoala. Raviolli with Gamberi. Grilled fish. Lemon cake. Espresso.

The sky has been black all night. Lightning at sea everywhere. We already seen the weather was going to be bad: All the boats at the main marina were taken out of the water! When we leave, the restaurants black cat blocks our way, as if she wanted to say .. better wait. And than the rain starts to gush down.

For almost an hour without calming down the rain is poring down. A nice Lemoncella later it stops. Time to go. Water flows from the mountain everywhere. The footpath is a small flood. But the rain had stopped and the wind lay down, so we are good.

Antonio looks worried when he opens the door on our arrival ... "don't worry, we are fine".

No boats - May 23rd

Again the weather forecasts are promising bad weather. So we didn't plan ahead for today. In the morning all seems not too bad, we could even have breakfast outside. After a slow start we walk to the other side of Positano, to see how the restaurants are over there. Only Il Capitano seems nice. The rest is either too far or lacks a nice view. We descend through the small inner food paths back down to the town center.

The sea is beautiful, but wild. Arriving at the marina we want to check when the boats to Amalfi leave. Hé? All the ticket booths are gone or closed? We also don't see any boats today. The sea is obvious to wild to moor the boats.

After a good lunch at Capricci we take the same route, so via the outside, back. Once back in the room it starts to rain again. And it doesn't stop .. time for an afternoon nap.

We are not too hungry, so we simply get a sandwich from the nearby Mini Market.

Amalfi - May 24th

This is our 2nd time at the Amalfi Coast, but we have never been to Amalfi itself, so we decide to go there today. The bus is packed (no boats, so all tourist, as far as from Sorrento, are all on the bus!) and we have to stand for an hour. Brrr. It's cold in Amalfi, there is a lot more wind than in Positano.

Let's 1st check out the main attracktion: Duomo di Sant'Andrea Apostolo. Very nice, but after a good 15 minutes we have seen it all. We wander through some streets. Hmmm ... Positano is by far nicer!

Less than an hour in Amalfi and we are back in the bus to Positano! Again packed, and no seat for us. Luckily the people next to us have to get off fairly quickly so we can sit a good part of the bus ride.

Yep. Positano is much much nicer. Lunch, Espresso. Life is good.

In the evening we get a sandwich (enough after a big lunch), an espresso and something sweet & delicious. We soak up the view for a last time ... tomorrow we need to leave this beautiful place to go back home.

Butiama Beach - Whale Shark Safari

Arriving Butiama Beach - February 8th

We fly via 2 air strips in Selous to Dar Es Salaam and from there we take another plane to Mafia Island. In no time we arrive at Butiama Beach. Yes, this is going to be a relaxed 2nd part of our holiday. Super! Cheese & bacon beefburger with french fries and a coke for lunch. Jummy.

Lala Day - February 9th

Before we arrived we already decided to have a relaxing day today. It will therefore be a "Lala Day". We start the day with a refreshing dive in the pool, just before breakfast. A slow walk along the beach. Seeing the Dhow's pass by on the sun beds at the beach. Slowly .. slowly ... slowly ..... soo wonderfull.

Whale Shark - February 10th

Today we are going to look for the Whale Shark - the biggest fish on the planet. The 3 Indian kids from Dar/Kenia (?) are joining us. Before we go we are told there are 61 (!) different animals identified here. The 1st boat we see is the "tag" boat from the American Research Team. We sail a little further and see that next to us another 3 boats are "hunting" for the Whale Sharks. They are already "dressed up" (fins and mask on) for the action on the side of the boat .... but, where are they then?

It takes quite some time before we find them. But once we do the party starts! We can snorkel with one after the other .. 6 in total we see.

3 hours after we depart we are - tired and fulfilled - back at Butiama for lunch.

Redo yesterday - February 11th

Yesterday was too much fun, so during dinner we tell Moez we want to go again. Another thing is that Moez told us he had 21 divers ... maybe too many to have a nice diving day. This time we were accompanied by Italians and Germans.

The Whale Sharks were more difficult to see than yesterday, as there seemed to be more plankton (green pee soup). The where swimming quicker. And dove more often into the deep. Nevertheless it was a lot of fun. Snorkling with Whale Sharks is simply fantastic!

During dinner we were offered a private table at the beach and the food was - again - delicious!

Chole Bay - February 12th

The plan is to make 2 dives today. At 09:15 we depart per Land Rover to the other side of the island. It takes close to 30 minutes to get at the Dive Shop. We are welcomed by Daniel. Moez is also there. After we had fitted our gear, and waited at the restaurant next door for about 15 minutes, we head for our boat.

Moez is our guide - an nice surprise - and only other diver - a Romanian girl - accompanies us on our Dhow*. The 1st dive is okay. We see many nice things and lots of fish. Unfortunately the viz was quite bad. Quite some sediment and also lots of plankton. Moez explains that with incoming tide the viz in the bay is very good. Today the incoming tide is too late to wait for.

After enjoying our lunch on the Dhow we head for the 2nd dive site of the day. This one is outside the bay (Chole Bay that is). While sailing there we can see the water clearing up. Underwater the difference in viz is quite big. This is goood! A big Napoleon Wrasse says high while we cruise a beautiful reef.

No wind on the way back, so the sails stay down ... . And it gets quite hot on the Dhow.

// * So 21 divers, doesn't mean 21 divers on a boat. It just means more boats. Good to know for a next time! //

44 - February 13th

At the moment I wake up I remember: "it's my birthday". My 44th one. Petra also remembers and congratulates me before opening her eyes even :-).

Birthdays is not really my thing, but it's nice getting all the best wishes sms'.

Before breakfast we head for the pool for a nice refreshing swim. At breakfast Maura - with her little boy on her arm - comes to our table to wish me a nice birthday.

Back in the room we try to call my dad. It's his birthday as well. At first we don't succeed, but after selecting the 'better' provider we get through to The Netherlands. The connection is bad, but I am sure he appreciated it a lot.

From there we fill the day with a long stroll along the beach (it's spring tide, so during low tide the beach is really wide!). A delicious lunch at our room. And relaxing massage at the small Spa - on Butiama's Beach.

// Maura finds us during the day to confirm we can keep our room until we leave this Friday, no need to clear it earlier. Great! //

At night a private table is reserved for us at the beach. Luckily the wind had died down. During the afternoon one was sandblasted sitting here. The bottle of White we ordered is on the house (what a nice gesture). The food, shrimp cocktail for starters, squid for mains and crême brulée for desert is so good. The food is just getting better and better.

What a wonderful day!

Valentines Day - February 14th

It's still early when we wake up. We both have dreamed a lot. Was it last nights wine? The wind? After a 'jummy' breakfast we pack our snorkel gear to go for our 3dr Whale Shark Snorkel Safari! This time we are accompanied by 2 Italian couples (from outside Butiama Beach) and an Austrian couple (staying with us at Butiama Beach). The Austrian couple was already traveling a month through Africa. They had been at Bwindi NP in Uganda. Hard work, 6 hours walk through dens rain forest under growth along steep mountains at 40°C and high humidity following the ranger who cuts the path with a manchetta. But once they saw the Mountain Gorilla's it all had been worth it.

The snorkel trip was account worth the swimming. The Whale Sharks were found pretty quick this time by our snorkeling guide (we had the "Olympic Champion  again .... he could keep up with the Whale Sharks while snorkeling!). The viz was quite improved to last time. Man what a beauties they are and what fun it is snorkeling with them.

Pity the camera fogged up ... .One more time we jumped in to say goodbye to the last Whale Shark of our holiday.

The final morning - February 15th

We start the morning with half an hour swim in the pool. There was quite some wind last night, so the pool water had cooled down quite a bit. The sky is overcast, so no sun heat either.

After a long, delicious and rich breakfast we have a relaxing morning. We snooze a bit on the sunbeds. The sun still didn't break through, so little chances for a sunburn.

Our last lunch (same as the 1st day) was again really good. We pack the final items, have a shower and than it is time to leave this beautiful place.

Hmmm ... the bill is a lot less than expected. After checking we see some items are missed. We decide to be honest about it and tell Maura. "The 3rd Whale Shark Safari was a birthday present". Very very kind ... but than we still miss 2 spa treatments on the bill (?). Maura corrects the bill. Petra pays.

We arrive quite early at the "airport" The woman at security looks through Petra's stuff for cigarettes. As she doesn't smoke she offers her some mints. We also run into the Romanian girl again. The dive the next day - same site - wasn't that good. Way too much current. They had been moving far too fast to really see the fish. On the plus side, they sailed back.

After a short flight with a Chessna C404 we arrive at Dar. Hmmm .. nobody waiting for us?! I ask the guy from Leopard Tours whether the had seen someone from Hippo Tours. No. One of them is so kind to call Hippo Tours "No transfer pre-booked for Mr de Bakker". Okay, thanks. So get a cab to bring us to the international side of the airport ($7).

Despite it being still very early, we decide to pass security. Maybe not the best of choices as there is nothing there and Swiss isn't starting to check in for a long time.

// When we return to Tanzania next time we really have to make better arrangements for this final part. Especially when we are flying KLM who leaves even 2 hrs later at 24:00 //

Home - February 16th

The trip back went very smooth. Even the connection in Zürich was flawless and we had plenty of time. At 10:20 we are already home.

Selous Impala

Elly - February 1st

Our holiday starts today in a special way. To avoid missing our connecting flight in Zürich, we have decided to have stop over, and spent the night at Elly's, Petra's sister who lives nearby. The connection only had 1:10 hour in between and there is only one flight a day to Dar Es Salaam.

It was a good choice and we had a very nice family evening!

To Tanzania - February 2nd

In the morning Elly brings us to Kloten, the International Airport of Zürich. The Dutch (!) ground stewardess checks and confirms our luggage is already on board the plane. As planned, and without any delay, we fly, with a short stop-over in Nairobi, from Zürich to Dar Es Salaam.

After purchasing the visa ($50 pp) we can pass immigration. The luggage arrives shortly after. Outside Samuel is already waiting for us to take us to the Slipway Hotel.

It's too late to have dinner (~11:00 at night), so we decide to go to sleep.

Selous Impala - February 3rd

At 5:45 the alarm wakes us up. A quick shower, grab all our stuff and off we are. It's 06:30, so breakfast isn't prepared yet. We grab some bits that are available and head for the domestic side of the airport. We arrive at 07:00. Why soo early? The plane is scheduled to leave at 08:30 only?!

Due to the late arrival of an international flight, carrying some passengers booked on our plane, we leave even later: 09:15.

On the landing strip in Selous Game Reserve our guide for the week - Gerard - is already waiting for us. A 1.5 hours Game Drive takes us to the Camp. Baboons, Impala, Antelope and Giraffe have been spotted before we arrive.

We are welcomed by Andrea, after which we are taken to our tent: #7, the 'family tent' (2 tents on one platform). Our neighboring tent is empty, hopefully it will stay empty. We have a splendid view on a bend in the river. Buffalo's on the riverbed. Black Faced Vervet Monkeys in the trees around us ... and on our veranda. Woodpeckers everywhere. Etc etc.

Hyena and Elephant - February 4th

The 1st full day of Game Driving has started. Fairly quickly we see the usual suspects. Curious Giraffe, grazing Impala and many Birds. We spend a lot of time looking for Lions, but aren't to be found yet. Gerard heard the laughing a while ago, and now we found them: 4 Spotted Hyena's in the scrubs next to the road in a cooling mud pool.

The Bush Breakfast was delicious, with a great view on the lake/river.

The Elephant tracks Gerard showed several times, but what about the animals making them? We follow the tracks, and the path gets more and more muddy. Too muddy actually. We try another route. Yes!! 17 Elephants. Including a 2-3 weeks old baby. Gerard pushes the Land Rover further and further in the mud so we can see them better.

They are across a small pool and are either being lazy (lying down!) or playing in the water (the baby). What a perfect picture.

Hmmm. I wonder how we will get out of this mud now? Very simply, just push the Land Rover forward, through the bush! Not easy, but it works.

On our way back Petra notice a Jeep standing still and an Hyena with something in its mouth. Yep. It's caught an Impala. A very nice morning. Time for lunch.

Hunting for Lions! Gerard races from spot to spot. Talks to all Jeeps we encounter ('all' ... we encounter 3 all that afternoon). They have heard Lions at the neighboring Camp last night, so they must be close.

Finally we find them. A mom and 3 brothers and a sister. They are part of a local pride that is not often seen. Just when we want to return to the Camp, they get up and start walking. We follow them slowly through the bush. What a day!

// Gerard explains many many things about the Lions, including the fact that the local pride at Impala has very small cubs .... and hence hides well. //

// "Gerard?" "What are those black faced monkeys called?" "That is exactly what they are called .. Black Faced [Vervet] Monkeys". //

Walking Safari - February 5th

Barbara explained it upfront, to avoid disappointment: "If you are lucky you may see something, but a Walking Safari is all about small stuff that you normally don't see when you are in a Jeep".

After some sculls, tracks and poo, we hear something creacking. Oh boy, 4 Giraffe in front of us. Surrounded by a bunch of Impala (small stuff .. right). A little further, bending over some Buffalo droppings Petra all of a sudden says: "Elephants!!".

The Ranger (who accompanied us) arms his riffle and moves in front of us. Gerard directs us backwards, away into the bush - out of the wind. Who expected this. 5 Big Elephants!

We continue the walking safari and see more Giraffe and Antelope. Even a few Warthogs. Wow. "You are soo lucky" Gerard says. And he is very right about that! It's like walking through a Fairy Tale.

Another brilliant Bush Breakfast is waiting for us.

We continue the morning with a Boat Safari. We see 4 Buffalo's (bachelors), Elephants crossing the river and of course Crocodiles and a few King Fishers. When we arrive at Bird Island we see several kinds of Herons. Open Beak Storks. And Darts (kind of Cormorant). On the way back again a crossing group of Elephants. Man, doesn't it stop!

It is getting very hot in the boat (it's the hottest time of the year), hope not to get a sunburn. Back at the Camp: Shower and Lunch. It's noon.

Hunting for Leopard! Jack (the "he" form the English couple that joined us on the Jeep) goes fishing, so it is just the 3 of us. Everybody heads out to look for elusive Leopard. "Exiting news" Gerard says, "The dogs have been spotted!" .. "It's quite far". No problem. Step on it!

En route we see the same Lions again (man, what is mom skinny). And we see Zebra?! We thought they weren't around this time of the year in this part of the park. Yesterday we were at this same place and didn't see any?! Another day is another day it seems. Finally. The African Painted Dogs! "Everybody" is here. Even the Camp Manager Barbara. As well as Lake Manze (as far away as our Camp in opposite direction). 4 - 5 Jeeps in total.

What a pleasant surprise. And are they gorgeous! We are soo lucky to see them again :-)

On our way back Gerard sees a male Hippo out of the water (they graze outside of the water during the night). He spots us and opens his big mouth, showing his big tooth/tasks! And charges! Man ... very exiting (screaming girls on the Jeep).

No Leopard .. but what a fantastic day!

Lake Manze - February 6th

Gerard planned to head in the direction of Lake Manze today to show us a different landscape. Looking left and right off the road we drive Manze direction. All of a sudden an Elephant crosses in front of us, loud trumpeting. "Gerard's favorite animal" so we we try to get a little closer to the herd. Gerard keeps the Jeep out of the wind so we can get close. They are in dens bushes. Incredible how such a huge animal can disappear and appear in and out of it!

Once at Lake Manze we find 3 Lions. Big lads. Three brothers with obviously a full belly.

We have our bush breakfast not to far away from the Lions, where Gerard shows us a little Green Snake.

On our way back we see quite a lot of Vultures. From where they are we think they have been finishing the kill of Wild Dogs we saw yesterday. A little further we notice a few (3) Jeeps. We coming close we see they are watching some Lions. Four brothers and a Lady this time. So pretty to look at :-)

Before we move on we "push start" another Jeep with ours. Not the best spot to have you car break down, at an arms lenght of 5 Lions!

After snapping a few pics of the many Giraffe we see, we are back in the Camp for lunch.

Hunting for Leopard, part II! We are going to give it another try to spot the "Elusive one". Gerard gives it his best, but no Leopard. We do however see a group of beautiful Black and White Colobus Monkeys. They are very beautiful and quite rare. So we are lucky to see them.

Back at the Camp the path to our tent is blocked by the "local Hippo" Andrea. Two Masai and a few pebbles take care of that 'problem'. 

Elephants - February 7th

Today we start slowly. Jack and Zoe left yesterday, so nobody is waiting for us. .... Huh? The front row of the Land Rover is already taken? It's the elderly English couple that just arrived from Ruaha NP (Kwihala Lodge, 2 days of rain and long grass hiding the animals in Ruaha).

Gerard takes a strange turn. Where is he going? And than, we are in the middle of a herd of 30 Elephants! Despite having babies they are very relaxed and stroll just past our Jeep. Man!

After our last delicious bush breakfast at the lake side we hear "Leopard" on the radio. Let see what that's all about.

The Leopard has been seen for 2 sec and has moved on .. . Or has hided well. Another 50 meters further we bump into the next herd of Elephants. It is so nice to see them, again and again. Time to head back to the Camp. The Leopard can wait for this afternoon .... or a next time.

One more try! Gerard has been informed that a Leopard has been spotted close to Manze. It's an hour to get there and we only have from 16:00 to 19:00 this last afternoon. But, of course, we giver it a go. Gerard seems even more enthusiast than us and drives, as fast as he is allowed with guests on board, to the spot. The radio tells us Camp Manager Barbara is going there as well ... little later she overtakes us (man, they are going fast on the dirt road!).

 It doesn't take too much time to find the Leopard's kill, a male Impala. We wait for more than an hour and constantly hear the alarm calls of the birds around us. Gerard is sure the Leopard is here ... but we can't see her/him. We chase another Jeep away, pretending we are watching birds, in the hope the shy animal will show. We stretch it another 15 minutes .. but no, the Leopard doesn't appear. Gerard is even more disappointed than us .. it's been a while they spotted the Leopard. We had a fantastic Safari and will for sure return!

Let's hope Gerard can start his week off tomorrow so he can see his daughter Yvonne, 10 months old only.

Sad Day - February 8th

The day starts wonderfull, despite it is a sad day as we are leaving this wonderfull Selous Game Reserve today. Packing, the last breakfast and the bill (no shock at all!). The tip for the staff dropped in the Tip Box and off we go to the air strip.

The trip there is per boat, a nice twist. When we arrive I notice I still have the envelope with the tip of our waiter (Peter) in my pocket. I hand it over to Moshi, who accompanied us, and ask him to give it to Peter.

The Chessna arrives and off we go ... to Butiama Beach on Mafia Island.