Sunday, November 22, 2015

Raja Ampat - Wobbegongs & Mantas


[2 days earlier] "Hmmm ... double booking?", and the original one only gives error notifications?! The new one is only one way, and stops at Makasar?! The chat with KLM didn't help a lot: "this is how your travel agent arranged it, you better contact them". According Natalie, from Diving Holidays, our travel agent, all was going to be okay. She had called Garuda ... 
Much later that day we could finally check in on our original booking/itinery. Pfew.

November 20th - Double Booking

Smooth drive to the airport, no traffic. 

At the KLM checkin desk: "No, I can only see you going upto Ujung [Makasar] and can only check in your lugguage so far". What!?. "Garuda is in terminal 3. Not sure where exaclty but you can ask there". @$%$% aagghh.

"O?" "Now I can see the 3rd flight too". .... what a pleasant surprise, pfew. All lugguage checked in and labelled for Sorong.

To the lounge, flights in 2 hours already.

Amsterdam → Singapore → Jakarta. At Jakarta Airport we need to re-check-in our luggage for the domestic flight [luckily some curious ground staff asked us what company we were flying and to where, advising us to do so]. The Visa On Arrival was also quickly arranged. Two more flights to go: Jakarta → Ujung [Makasar] → Sorong.

November 22nd - Papua Explorers

Arrival at Sorong. No need to wait for the luggage. Also Jamal from Papua Explorers is already there. We're put in a car to the Marina Hotel, where we need to wait for the boat trip to the resort @ 11:30 [so 5 hours later → at that moment we think that's because we have a "free" transfer and hence need to join the Supply Boat. Later on we understand that even a Private Transfer wouldn't be leaving much earlier].

Little after us Magnus and Una from Sweden, and Gary and Barb from Canada arrive. We all patiently wait for the 5 hours in the hotel, and the 2.5 hours on the boat to pass. A pod of Spinner Dolphins is saying welcome to Raja Ampat on route. Very nice.



The welcoming sounds of music and singing we can here from quite a distance, getting at the resort. [very nice, but no time to enjoy. TOILET NOW!]



Lynn (Australia) is taking care of the arrival briefing, after which lunch is served. Dive Shop briefing at 17:30: Unpack. Put our dive gear outside. Shower. Already time for the briefing. Arnoud (Arno) from France (± Nice) does the briefing. Dinner.



It's getting dark and I feel I am getting sleepy and tired [not a surprise after a 40hrs trip and still standing all day]. At eight o'clock we're done and go to bed, to only wake up at 4. Yes, very early, but still 8 hours of sleep. An hour later we go to the jetty to enjoy the sunrise. It's gorgeous. 


November 23rd - Slow Start

Breakfast with Sweden, Canada, Lynn and Arno. We also have a chat with the other Canadians at the Resort (familie Brouwers ... and they do speak Dutch, we need to watch it ;-)). The rest of the day is for relaxing, taking pictures and ... already time for lunch.

In the afternoon I go into the water to do some snorkling at the house reef. It's nice, but not "out of this world" as one is told when going to Raja Ampat. No need to find Nemo, they were everywhere. Finally the jellyfish (many of them) drive me out of the water.



"Did you see the Dophine?" "Did you hear it?" "It was 2 meters behind you ... we kept calling you". Me again .. missed the Dolphine ... 

Dinner: Gado Gado, saté, ... jummy.

November 24th - Ill

Petra didn't feel well getting up. Her throat was hurting, snotty and a bit feverish. At breakfast it's just Una, Magnus doesn't show up [Belly something ..]. Gary and Barb are at the table. Petra wants to give it a try anyway.

In the middle of the briefing Gary pops-up: "Barb isn't too well, so we will not join today". So, just the three of us. Guide is Hakim. Arno remembered he had to fly to Singapore tomorrow, so better no diving today.

Petra had some issues clearing her ears the 1st dive.

Jos: 61 [min] / 27.1 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 25.0 [m]

After a nice safety stop on the jetty of the local village (where we see a Walking Shark) we start our 2nd dive. This time some nice current, so we can watch the big barracuda's, hanging on our reef hook.




Jos: 60 [min] / 24.7 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 23.2 [m]

During lunch Una tells us Magnus is still not feeling well and she will stay with him. Petra already told me this morning she will only do 2 dives today. So the couple from Austria, Wilfried and Helga [Maldives junkies, Vilamendhoo, Filitheyo, numerous liveaboards, etc.] will be my buddy's for the afternoon dive. Gary joins to snorkel.

It is not a brilliant dive. Little current. Not much sun. Luckily my new Dive Torch works fine.



November 25th - Empty House

What a postivity. Those crazy Canadians (actually from Brabant, The Netherlands .. some time ago). Laughing and yelling another 3 rounds with the speed boat before they finally say goodbye and head for Sorrong. With them some others left, leaving only eight of us at the resort. That's it.



Our neighbours, Gary and Barb from Canada. Such a lovely and possitive couple. 71 but still thinking about getting certified to dive. Although keep on snorkeling is fine as well. Winfried and Helga from Austria on the otherhand seem less possitive. But when it comes to diving ... they are fanatics! Winfried learned diving when he was 48, that's 20 years ago, and has logged about 2000(!) dives since. All warm water dives. Helga got certified in 2002 and logged an unbelievable 1400 dives since. I hoop I will be as fit and adventures as them when I am 70 years old. Half of that will do, as I can't keep up with them already.




Yesterday the signs were already there. Music and singing, as the Canadians left today, but Petra didn't want to stay. Not feeling well. I am also doubting my fitness, and decide to stay with her for a "No Divinge Day". I know what happens if I push it: I will regret it later on. So this is the better choice.

Good news from Hakim: They fixed Petra's regulater .... they replaced the hoose ... for free. Wow!

November 26th - Diving Again

Mixed feelings today. The diving is not what I expected it to be. The current made the dives messy and the plankton 'killed' the visibility. The 3rd dive, Cape Kri, was the worst. Hanging for 50 min's in the current with nothing interesting to see. On the other hand, I saw my 1st Wobbegong. And another one on the 2nd dive. They are sooo beautiful. With a Sepia, an Eagle Ray, a Blacktip and a Wobbegong, the 2nd was memorable one anyway.

Jos: 53 [min] / 16.5 [m] | Petra: 53 [min] / 15.5 [m]
Jos: 64 [min] / 22.7 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 22.0 [m]
Jos: 57 [min] / 13.1 [m] | Petra: 57 [min] / 11.3 [m]


After the 3rd dive we explained to Hakim what happened. Tomorrow we'll go for some easier dives. And that's a better choice as Petra isn't top fit still and I am exhausted after a full day of diving.

November 27th - Manta Manta

And again we wake to the most beautiful sunrise ever [when you see those colorful Indonesian paintings .. they aren't exaggerated at all!]. O, what a beautiful place is this. Not to forget the bird alarm in the morning.



Today Manta Sandy and Arborek. As we don't spot mantas when passing Manta Sandy, we start at Arborek. When we see 2 mantas we jump in for a quick snorkel. Lovely. Arborek is a nice dive. Due to the current a bit of work to do. 

Jos: 56 [min] / 20.7 [m] | Petra: 56 [min] / 18.9 [m]

Manta Sandy surpasses all our expectations. One full hour of manta show, 5 white and 2 black reef mantas.

Jos: 66 [min] / 16.5 [m] | Petra: 66 [min] / 16.2 [m]

The third dive, Hakim's favorite site, is also beautiful. A very nice diving day today!



Jos: 57 [min] / 20.4 [m] | Petra: skipped

November 28th - Three Average Dives

There was a lot of plankton today, so bad visibility. And that is always a pity. The 1st dive. Okay, a pygmy seahorse. The 2nd dive was a gorgeous wall. But since the light was coming from the wrong site, and since the island is like an overhang (hat), there was far too little light to enjoy the beauty to its full extent. The 3rd one was the same one as I did yesterday - at that time we did the top (flying over) and the viz was much better - when it was a lot nicer. Also the wobbegong was gone ... .

Jos: 66 [min] / 22.9 [m] | Petra: 66 [min] / 21.6 [m]
Jos: 61 [min] / 21.6 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 19.2 [m]
Jos: 66 [min] / 19.9 [m] | Petra: 65 [min] / 19.2 [m]


Gary and Barb went home this morning.

November 29th - Manta Manta ... Again

This morning we go for "Blue Magic". According Winfried the best dive site around and a chance for Oceanic Mantas. The season had started, so who knows?

Arriving at the site 2x good news. 1) just 2 other boats, and they are already in the water some time. 2) The mantas are here! We are dropped a little to far on the reef and need to work our way back a bit. Only 10 minutes in the dive Nando, our guide, sees a manta. We swim there to take a look. It's a gigantic oceanic manta. The next 50+ minutes it stays around, looking at us - checking us out. Just hanging on the reef it comes in so close ... like an eclipse, banning all the sunlight. What a dive!!

Jos: 72 [min] / 22.9 [m] | Petra: 71 [min] / 22.0 [m]


The 2nd dive, after our interval at Bat Island, was a nice dive with small stuff (except the Napoleon and Bumphead parrotfish ...). Mild current, so a lovely flight over the reef. 

Jos: 63 [min] / 22.0 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 22.0 [m]


We're back late and the new guests had arrived. 12 Russians and a few other nationalities. The resort is full again.

[we already miss Barb's ear-to-ear smile]

Winfried and Helga are not so happy. The drink prices have gone up 30% (new season start?), and that is a lot as the wine is already not cheap to start with in Indonesia. After the 3rd dive (they did Otdima again) they were smiling again. It had been a very nice dive they said.

I am going to skip the night dive I planned. Enough is enough. Let's call it a day .. 

November 30th - Washing Machine

Heavily clouded. No sun. The plan today is to do "Mike's Point" & "Cape Kri". During the 1st dive I am getting a bit chilled. Should have listened to Petra and wear my new 3mm body. During our safety stop, looking up, we see it started to rain. Getting out 'rain' seems an understatement, it's poring down. The boat is already filling up. Now were all cold. I quickly put on the 3mm body. We are heading for Yenbuba pier (we thought we would go back to the resort).



Jos: 60 [min] / 25.6 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 24.7 [m]

A chat with Una and Magnus, two cups of warm thee, and off we go for the 2nd dive. OMG, what a current! We reach the reef, but the current is from the wrong side (did we jump at the wrong side of the split? **). We all look at eachother, hanging at the reef in the strong current, and decide to cancel the dive. We let go of the reef and the current flushes us away. We fly over the reef, and than get pushed off the reef into a down current. We drop 8-10 meters in no time. Bubbles going down in stead of up. Very scary. I inflate my BCD and try to swim up. Slowly we go up ... and than it's calm again. We start our safety stop, but we're pulled down again. Out! Out! Vernando took Petra by the hand the whole time. Very thankful for that as she was close to panicking.
On the surface, waiting for the boat, Vernando is right next to me. In seconds he drifts 10 meters away. Man, crazy currents here! Winfried, who didn't get blown of the reef, is already on the boat. Little later we also pick up Helga. Jerry also had to take her by the hand and got her out safely. They got pulled to another direction.
"Anybody for an afternoon dive?" "YES!"

(** Later Hakim explains that there are different current directions at different depths. Only having reached 9 meters we probably didn't reach the main/bottom current, but stayed in the top current .... with above consequences)

Jos:  9 [min] / 16.8 [m] | Petra:  9 [min] / 15.4 [m]


During lunch Winfried makes sure the drink prices will remain as was for them. We took a little nap. And than time for the 3rd dive. "You want an easy dive?" Arno asks. "Yes". "Okay, let's go for Manta Sandy!". A good choice. Lovely 1 hour with 7 - 8 Manta's that keep flying by to go to the cleaning station and back in line. One could say the light was from the wrong site, and the viz wasn't that good, but who cares with so many Manta's to look at.

Jos: 69 [min] / 15.9 [m] | Petra: 69 [min] / 15.9 [m]

In the evening Arno asks me to share my manta video's and pictures for his "Identification Log". He also had a lot of questions on what we had seen the passed days. How many boats at each site, etc. Yes, the Marine Biologist is serious about his passion. 



December 1st - Easy Dive Day

Some days don't have much to report, and this is one of them. A relaxed day with some easy dives. The current, as 'promised' during the briefing, isn't there. But we did see beautiful reefs, especially on the first 2 dives.

Jos: 62 [min] / 23.5 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 22.6 [m]
Jos: 61 [min] / 26.2 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 25.9 [m]

Curious which Bird Watching experience Una liked best. She had already done the morning one and is now going to do the afternoon one. Tomorrow Magnus and Una will leave. Pity. We enjoyed their company and conversation.




Jos: 61 [min] / 29.6 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 26.5 [m]

December 2nd - The Passage

A tour around the island today. We start with a dive at Citrus Ridge. Good viz and a fantastic reef.

The funniest thing happened there, but I only found out that night. I swam after a Wobbegong, filming it. On my return I saw a few Pilot Fish, and thought "poor guys, they lost their Wobby". When checking out the video in our room that night it was obvious they didn't loose their Wobby. It was lying in from of me, just centimeters away. Incredible camouflage as I didn't see it at all (and they are not tiny!).

We continue with a nice boat ride through the mangroves.

The Passage itself is a little bit of a fairground attraction. Nice to do once, but I wouldn't do it again.

Jos: 64 [min] / 25.9 [m] | Petra: 64 [min] / 24.4 [m]
Jos: 69 [min] / 14.1 [m] | Petra: 70 [min] / 14.0 [m]

Back at the resort we have a final check with Hakim. Unfortunately they didn't find the 5 pax total to join for Wayang (we couldn't understand people traveling all across the world and skip on this World Heritage site ... but we can't force them). Only Gaby, our neighbor from Germany, was okay to join. So Fam it will be then.

A lovely night dive on the House Reef, with Beto, completes the day.

Jos: 50 [min] / 16.8 [m] | Petra: skipped



December 3rd - Fam Islands

So not Wayang (and the dive sites on route), but Fam Islands. Germany (Gaby and Ralph, both traveling alone) and Austria (Winfried and Helga) join us on the boat. Our first dive is at Melissa's Garden. It is a gorgeous dive site with lots to see.



The plan was 1st dive, Fam Islands, lunch, followed by the 2nd dive. Arno decides lunch can wait. We first go to Fam and climb up the hill. Waw what a view! [one wonders how much better Wayang is... ] And immediately the 2nd dive: Anita's Garden. Again an incredibly beautiful reef. And the viz, super!



Jos: 69 [min] / 24.1 [m] | Petra: 69 [min] / 23.2 [m]
Jos: 63 [min] / 21.6 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 20.4 [m]



We have lunch at a local beach. The local Monitor Lizards are already waiting for us. Four show up (later a fith one joins) and they are not shy at all. A little bit too used to people for my liking as they get very close when charging for scraps being thrown.

A nice gift during our return: we spot 5 manta's feeding at the surface. We all - including the majority of the boat crew - jump in to snorkel. This never gets booring. 

December 4th - Red Bird of Paradise

4:25 is when the alarm beeps. We have planned to go bird watching and are supposed to meet Hakim at 4:50 at the restaurant. He is already waiting for us when we arrive. He wakes up Derek, who joins to watch us, and quickly arranges binoculars. After a short boat ride we arrive at the jetty of the neighboring village where bird man Nico is awaiting us.
We need to walk through the village and another 15 minutes or so through the jungle to reach the first bird spot. A kind of Cockatoos, but it's still quit dark so we can hardly see them. We can surely hear them. Now to the main attraction: Red Bird of Paradise. There is a kind of bench one can sit on and lean backwards to watch them far up in the tree. Very far up in the tree. The male birds start dancing for the (dull looking) females. Difficult to see with binoculars that are blurred (sea water entered?). That leaves the zoom on my compact camera as the only way to see them. The zoom is enough (20x optical plus 20x digital), but to keep them in the screen while they nervously jump up and down the branches, dancing, is difficult. Let alone keep them in focus. The later it gets the brighter it gets, the better we can see them.
The nearby thunder is getting loader and closing in. We need to start going, as the rain is starting. Nico asks if we want to wait, but we think we best move before it gets all wet and slippery. On our arrival in the village we are soaking wet. Despite of some problems a nice morning adventure we wouldn't have wanted to miss. Time for breakfast.



"Petra & Jos, where do you want to dive?" "Cape Kri?" "I'll be your personal guide" "Or do you want to go to Otdima?" Hakim tries to convince us to join him to go to Kri as, after two failed dives there, he wants to show why we should dive there and why it's so famous. Petra is doubting a long time, but finally she says: "Yes, let's go to Kri!".



The current on the reef is not much this time (too little?) and at the end we spot a nice Sepia - we hadn't seen one this trip yet, so a nice bonus. On our safety stop we also see some real Dories. Very good!

"Und Winfried?" "Zu viel Strömung auf Otdima. Wir sind irgendwo anders, auf die andere seite, gewezen. Saum Rif. Ach."

Jos: 67 [min] / 28.7 [m] | Petra: 67 [min] / 28.8 [m]

December 5th - Soto Ajam

Man, does time fly. We arrived at our final day already. A relax one. Some stroling on the beach. Drying our dive gear. Chatting with the dive guides (Fahmy and Vernando). A bit of sleep. Lunch: Yes, Soto Ajam - lekker!
We repeat the morning in the afternoon. Stamp the logbooks. O, I need to take my medication. I left it with them (needs to be in the fridge) almost 2 weeks ago. Arno gets it from the kitchen and I am pleasantly surprised to see it was still okay.
Time to pack. Tonight, dinner with dancing and music with the locals from the nearby village. Tomorrow wake-up at 6:00, we're leaving at 7:00.



December 6th - The Big Trip Home

Full boat to Sorong (Ralph, Gaby, Helga, Winfried and Darwin, Australia: Tracy, Allen, Matthiah and Brad). First stop at the hotel, and then to the airport. A quick checking, but only to Jakarta. We say goodbye to Darwin (they have planned an extra few days in Manadoo) and fly together with Ralph (he sits next to me) to Makasar.
At the transfer desk we ask if we can check in for Amsterdam. "Yes, no problem. We'll also re-label your luggage directly to Amsterdam, no need to re-check in Jakarta". Great, but I think we better check to make sure. To the lounge now and wait for a big 6 hours before our flight to Jakarta leaves.
In Jakarta we watched other peoples luggage passing by on the belt for a good 45 minutes. At that time all had been collected and ours didn't pass by, so it must have been checked through as they said in Makasar. Arriving in Amsterdam confirmed that. It was one of the first on the belt. Perfect. Which also describes this holiday very well: Perfect.


Ooh Solley Solley .... don't ask my why, but it had been in my head for almost 2 weeks.

It was a sad goodbye from Raja Ampat - as good memories always are.

Thursday, May 14, 2015

Port Ghalib 2015


May 14th - Car Trouble


It's 7 in the morning and we are ready to go. Get the car, Petra says, so we can load in the luggage. Since she has her own little car mine is parked outside. And since she loves driving that new little car mine is mainly parked. Too often it showed. As I tried to start my car I hardly heard a click. Probalby the battery is gone (9 years and 170k km ... ). Even pushing it to jump start the car didn't work.

So, the little car will be taking us to Schiphol this time. Despite it's size (Fiat 500) the huge luggage fits easily. So with just a bit of delay we're on our way. My being the co-driver for the first time in many years :-)

Arke (TUI) check in and flight were good. In no time we arrive in Marsa Alam. A tiny transfer (Marina Lodge is 1st stop) and there we are. "Welcome back". Room 6323 has been reserved for us, exactly as we requested. Just pasted the room we had before, with an open bath room, a larger balcony and a better view. Another improvement is the Wifi strenght. This time I had to pay for it (495 EGP for the whole stay, 4 connections) as they are not longer an Intercontinental, and hence my IHG Gold membership is worthless this time around.


May 15th - Check in and Relax


First day: a long sleep in. Easy, relaxed and long breakfast. Slowly towards the diving shop. Jörgen immediately jumps up when he sees us. "Welcome back". Tomorrow at 10 we'll be picked up to do a House Reef dive. Now some more relaxing, swimming, lunching, dinning ... .
May 16th - Good to be back
Yep, it sounds strange, but little to report. And to be honest, that is the best part. This is our 4th time in Port Ghalib, 3rd time The Palace. And despite they aren't a Intercontinental anymore (Red Sea Resort now), all is as it was. And that is - as before - perfect. So nothing to complaint and hence little to report.

Jos: 62 [min] / 20.4 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 19.5 [m]

Same story for the Extra Divers dive shop. We found it as we left it. Many familiar, friendly, faces. A very nice 1st diving day.




May 17th - Again, and again, and again

When checking my dive log from last visit I see we only did 2 boat dive days, all other days we did the - O so beautiful - House Reef. And I wouldn't be surprised if we are going to repeat that schedule this holiday. Not because of the wind due to which the boat dives may be not too interesting ("too much wind" and than anchor around the in Marsa Imbarrak the whole day). Also not because the shore dives with the minivan is such a hassle (gather a certain time, always someone late, 1 hour in the minivan, gearing up in the hot sun). No we do all that with pleasure. No. Just because the House Reef is such a beautiful and magical place.

Jos: 65 [min] / 25.0 [m] | Petra: 65 [min] / 22.6 [m]



And always full of surprises. Today no big game, but the Remora that followed us all dive makes you think: "who did he loose?". The Dugong, a Big Turtle, .. ? It's all around. Even Dolphins. Some days you're lucky and see they. Other days it's the excitement of knowing you might. And than the reef itself with all its tiny inhabitants. It will make you come back again and again. Tomorrow ... I think yes.

May 18th - Night Dive

I wanted to try yesterday, but I was asking too late for Extra Divers to arrange the needed permit (arranged in El Queisir). So tomorrow (being today) it would be. Arriving at the dive shop I understand I am the only one. Okay. "Your guide is Ghalid". "You know him?". He impersonates a very big guy. "Hulk". Sure I know him.




Jos: 65 [min] / 23.9 [m] | Petra: 65 [min] / 22.4 [m]
Jos: 51 [min] / 18.9 [m]

The guide, Ghalid, was very nice and calm. A very pleasant night dive. I need to do this more often!

May 19th - Boat Dive Day

To my big surprise Petra had entered us on the boat dive list for today. She had been insisting for days that she didn't want to do any boat dives. Even not tomorrow (Elphinestone). The boat was full, but not too full. Dive spot is Marsa Shouni. Only two other boats around so quite okay.

Jos: 63 [min] / 27.4 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 25.3 [m]
Jos: 61 [min] / 20.4 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 19.3 [m]

The dives were nice as was the reef. But the House Reef is better. If you have a Dugong encounter here I can understand it is a "Yippie ai yee"day, but without it is just okay.



May 20th - Elphinestone

As every other year we also booked a trip to this famous dive spot this year. As a nice difference to last year the sea is calm and smooth this time. Not very busy. Only 4 or 5 other boats around, we have seen that much different. Also the drop from the boat was - 1st time ever (4th time here) - spot on. The reef is as beautiful as I remembered it. No (HH) Sharks on the 1st dive (North Plateau). Half way the 2nd dive (South Plateau) a WTR Shark cruises just below us.

Jos: 56 [min] / 32.4 [m] | Petra: 56 [min] / 31.1 [m]
Jos: 54 [min] / 28.5 [m] | Petra: 56 [min] / 26.8 [m]




A pod of Dolpins plays in the bow wave on our return. What a nice day!

May 21st - Scootering

Today we want to do a Scooter Dive. We had arranged it yesterday with Mostafa, our instructor from last year. When we build up and checked the scooters, mine wasn't working. After some trying and checking for the issue I saw the wire to the battery was loose (broken out of the connector). Mostafa fixed the issue and off we went.
Fish Market and back was the plan. After half an hour we turned, well passed the last (Crown Plazza / Siva) jetty. I noticed I was slowing down. Little later I wasn't moving at all anymore. Dead Scooter. Petra had to tow me back. At he Interconti Jetty we decided to get out. No way we could still reach Fish Market on one Scooter, towing 2 divers and another Scooter! So a dive that started as a fun dive ended in a bit of a disaster. Pity.




Jos: 57 [min] / 20.4 [m] | Petra: 58 [min] / 19.4 [m]

"Oh no" she is back. Seldom have I seen/heard such a bad singer for live entertainment .. .

May 22nd - Yep ....

A new day a new dive (site)? No! The same dive again, and that was a good choice. We enter at CP/Siva which was not so easy due to the waves (yes, quite a wind today). From there slowly 'back' to the IC Jetty. It seems the current has turned? For sure there is quite a surge, so this time we really need to swim a bit. Half way Petra sees a nice big Mangrove Stingray. He's quite shy and swims away. Visibility worsens during the dive.





Jos: 61 [min] / 25.7 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 23.2 [m]

Not sure if it was the wind, or the many Safari Boats leaving the harbour last night ... and they stir up a lot of sand. Anyway, the closer to the harbour the worse the viz. Glad we didn't do our 1st plan: IC -> IC. That would have been a bad dive.




Petra isn't feeling too well, so no more dives today. Just relaxing.

May 23rd - Time to Go

But not before ... yes, another last time on the House Reef. We both had a bit of a funky stomach (that had been long time ago .. ) but insisted to do another - last one for this holiday. But not too late as we fly at 11:10 o'clock tomorrow, so we need to get in early. It is again a beautiful dive, as every dive on the House Reef. Bye bye colorful fish, until next time!

Jos: 65 [min] / 24.4 [m] | Petra: 64 [min] / 22.1 [m]



Lunch - Relax - Pay Extra Divers - Dinner - Pack - Sleep.

May 24th - Home

Our holiday plan, from an efficient use of time or value for many point of view, was a bad plan. Arriving late, leaving early. Often flights out are late, giving you an almost full day at the pool or beach (like we had last time). But to honest, this is better. In stead of arriving home in the morning - very tired after a night without sleep in a plane - we now arrive home in the early evening, relaxed and rested. Totally perfect, like this holiday.

Can't wait to go back ... again.


Link to all pictures ... 

Tuesday, February 3, 2015

Cabañas La Luna - Tulum

February 2nd - Tulum

When booking this holiday we decided it was time for something completely different. Just to try. And if we like it, we may have found a new 'to return to' holiday destination. As we didn't know what to expect we were a little nervous about our choice in the days prior to our flight out .. .
We had found a very good offer for the flight from Brussels to Cancun at Jetairfly. Adding excess luggage for our diving gear only to our booking only added another €40. So Yucatan, Mexico, it will be. On TA we found nice places to stay in Tulum, so a destination was found as well! Cabana la Luna in Tulum.

Tulum was my bucket list any way. The image of the Maya Temple on top of a white beach impressed me already many moons ago. And now we are finally going there.

Once the plane the 12 hours plus flight happened to be 10:30 hours only (one prior worry gone), and the additional booked leg room (€15 pp one way) a good choice. Hopefully the taxi picking us up also checked the actual arrival, so we don't have to wait 2 hours in Cancun airport. It seem changing the time (day light saving) is too difficult for Belgian air carriers [we remember Port Ghalib too well .. ]. 

The whole flight we expected to land at 17:45 hours. At arrival it was already 18:30 hours. Aha, the time had been changed.

Picking up luggage and customs was quick. The immigration check (we were picked out for a detailed browse through our stuff) was quick and without any issue as well. Roberto was already waiting for us. 1:45 minutes later we arrived at our home for the next week and a bit.

Edmonda, Dutch (!), explains a bit about La Luna and shows us our room. A quick dinner and than ... sleep. We are soo tired.

February 3rd - Cabanas la Luna

We wake up early (4:30), but fall asleep again. Well after 7:00 we really wake up. Unpack and breakfast. Edmonda tells us a little more about La Luna, Tulum, Mexico, ... . 




Our first day has started, and we will take a slow one .. . A nice stroll over the beautiful beach (left side) .. and back. A lovely lunch back at La Luna. (Edmonda asks if we want to join tomorrows BBQ. Sure, we had kind of planned that any way).

Time to explore the beach turning right. And back. Yes, we picked the right spot to stay. OMG already time for dinner. One last glimpse over the beach and beautiful ocean before the sun sets.

Tomorrow bike riding?




February 4th - Rain

It is only our 2nd day, so again a slow start. First a good full Mexican breakfast (for me, Petra insists on her daily oatmeal). And, as Edmonda advised us, signing last nights bill. Hmmm. That's not right. Five whine, we had only three. And yesterdays lunch I had already signed yesterday. Let's check at reception what happened. "Crazy system" A little later, we were already back at the beach, she popped by to show how it had been corrected. Better keep an eye on the bills next days. Just to be sure.

During breakfast it rained, so we skip the bike ride plan. Soon after the sun appears and we decide to enjoy a lazy day at the lovely beach.

Petra wants to take some 'jump' pictures on the beach. Sure, no problem. 




Time to try the ocean. Nice and warm, but way to heavy waves to really swim. Lunch: 2x Akumal (ginger, pineapple, orange .. yummy), 1x Mexican Chevice, 1x Shrimp cocktail and 2x espresso. The last one covered by the roof over the restaurant terrace. Hopefully the rain leaves before tonight's BBQ starts.

Another nice walk over the beach. To right, the best looking side. Checking out some lunch/dinner alternatives for the coming days.

All precautions had been taken to tackle the rain during the BBQ. The BBQ is full of nice stuff and they have a very nice Band playing: Abril en Paris. We will be back next week!




February 5th - Booking a dive

After breakfast, Petra here daily oatmeal, me just a standard Continental (still full from last night's BBQ), we check yesterdays bills. Breakfast, check. Dinner, check. Lunch, nowhere to be found. They had some issues with the 'machine' at that time they say. Let's see if it pops up later this week.

Time to hop in the taxi and go to Mexidivers to book a Cenote dive. $70 excluding gear, wow. Diving is not cheap here! And the place didn't feel good. So for that money we better check out some others as well. Let's check down town Tulum. I had mailed with Koox Diving Tulum a few weeks ago, so let's have a look there as well. Feel a lot better. We are now talking to someone who is interested in diving (and not an uninterested sales guy). And we save a few bucks going here as well.

Tomorrow at 13:00 we'll be back and do two dives: Angelita and Car Wash. Still not cheap ($145 including gear for 2 dives), but it seems that is the normal cost here. If it is fun we go back for Dos Ojos and the Pit on Saturday.

Back for lunch on the beach (2x Fish Taco, Akumal, Corona, 2x Espresso). The ocean is gorgeous and sun shines ... life is good!




A lazy afternoon at the beach. Doing little to nothing feels very good. Seems we need the rest. In the early evening we stroll over the beach. A light rain pushes us back. As we arrive back at La Luna the rain had already stopped and the warm breeze had dried us up.

Dinner at La Luna. Boring? Maybe so. But the food is good, so why go elsewhere? Chicken Marsala for Petra and Fish with Capers for me. Best dinner until now.

February 6th - Cenotes

Slow and relaxed morning at the beach. We have our lunch here as well as we need to be at Koox at 13:00. We have to push a little as we don't want to dive on a full stomach. There it is, our yummy fish sandwich to share.

Man, what a lot of weight to carry! Edmonda, who also just happens to leave, bargains for us, saving us a few bucks on the taxi ride. There we go. At Koox a senorita books us in. Our dive guide, called BB (or BéBé?), will arrive soon. He checks our certification (so they actually do that!). A little chat, a final check if we have everything and off we go. The first Cenote we do is Angelita. I had read about this one and checked it on YouTube. BB, a very nice guy by the way, does the briefing. The same is also very clearly explained on the signs at the dive site. He warns us that, due to the fact it is our first Cenote dive and due to this being a very special Cenote: through a sulfur layer to end up in a "Tim Burton Movie" night dive ... well below 30 meter, it may be a little scary! 

Only 2 other divers and their guide next to us. A short walk through the jungle to reach the pond. We descent and after a little while the under water river (@ 28 meters) appears.




A layer of sulfur, like white thick smog, created by the rotted plants that fell into to the Cenote, splits the sweet (above) and salt (below) water. In the middle an "island" (the collapsed roof of the Cenote) with some dead trees on it. We slowly decent in the sulfur ... which you can taste (yak).

And than we are in a night dive. Pitch black it is. When you shine the dive light you see dead trees everywhere. BB didn't lie, it really looks (and feels) like a horror movie. Time to go back to the light and the sweet water.

I look around a little, and than look at my dive computer. I am still at 25 meters and was down to 38,2 meter (!), wow. Only 6 minutes left before deco, and we are just in the water. Time to further ascent, look a but around and do our safety stop. After 35 minutes the dive had ended. Petra is nauseous and found it not comfortable. Yep, it was a challenging 1st dive.




Off to the 2nd Cenote: Car Wash (Aktun Ha). First eat the sandwiches and feed to 4 lovely dogs around the car. We have a good time chatting with BB from Guadalajara. 

The 2nd Cenote is a more classic one. It is also being used a Guide and Cave Dive training site, so this one lacks the "Ropes to follow". The guide (BB) needs to tie them up when going in, and take them out returning. So we start BB followed by Petra followed by me, and we return me followed by Petra followed by BB. The most impressing part is the sign STOP. At the end we actually, with a big curve, are almost back in the pond, and you can see the exit all the time. So the ropes and routine seem a little overdone. But roles are roles, and I am sure when it's busy (and full of sediment) it may be badly needed.




Once back in the pond I realize that Cenotes are not my thing. Seeing the fish brings back the smile on my face. When we are out I see Petra is having the same thoughts. We are glad we tried, but one afternoon is enough for us. Even so if it was a lot cheaper (I think these were our most expensive dives ever, for sure per minute!).

After we had been shown by the gardener where the local crocodile ran off to (if your lucky you can see it in the pond!), BB takes us back to La Luna. What a joyful nice guy!

Jos: 35 [min] / 38.5 [m] | Petra: 35 [min] / 36.1 [m]
Jos: 42 [min] / 15.5 [m] | Petra: 42 [min] / 15.6 [m]

Dinner. What do we do? Just stay here. No hassle? Yes! 2x Special of the day: Seafood Fettuccine. Inside this time, the wind is chilly.

February 7th - Moving Houses

Exiting day today, we are moving rooms. At the time we booked a lot of hotels were already full. Also Cabanas la Luna didn't have one room for the complete stay. So decided to book 5 Marrakesh and 6 nights Marco Polo. On paper, based on the rate per night, a downgrade. Let's see. Marrakesh had a beautiful view, but the set-up wasn't very practical. 

After checking at reception if our new room was ready (Edmonda said it would be ready by 13:30 for sure). Still cleaning. At 14:30 we get our key.

Our jaw dropped when entering the room. The room is MUCH bigger than we thought it would be. And beautiful. And the view is good as well. We are happy :-) "Should we have booked this one for the complete stay?" "O, I remember. That wasn't possible".




Today they have another band playing. Man, this place ... so good. A lovely holiday on a gorgeous beach in a cozy hotel. And we still have another week!

February 8th - To bike or not to bike

Petra woke up early. I simply couldn't wake up. Man, I slept soo well. The room is warmer. The bed is bigger. That all helps. During breakfast Petra proposes to go for a bike ride. No idea that we had planned that, but okay. According Sarah (Dutch girl from Breda doing her internship here ... nice), there was only 1 bike available. When I checked a little later I saw she was right. Arranging a 2nd one could take hours. No, that will take too long.




We decide to walk the direction we intended to go. Not to rent a bike at the nearby shop ... luckily, as that was closed today. No just, walk and explore a little. The weather is nice, so we stroll passed all shops. Having a look here and there. At BeTulum we go back to the beach and return to La Luna. Todays activity has been completed. We watch the day passing by from our beach beds.




We really enjoy our "nothing should anything goes" holiday. Where the 'nothing' seems the preferred option.

Specialty of the day: Fresh Lobster. Yummy!

February 9th - Ruins

Flying all the way to Tulum without seeing the main attraction. No, that's not an option! Time to head that way than. Barely 7 km by taxi. And it seems no too busy (yet?). Obviously the buses from Playa del Carmen and Cancun park somewhere else, as the majority of the people come from another direction. 64 Pesos (so actually 'for free').




The site is not too big. But very beautiful, with a kind of serenity over it. We look around and take some pictures. Slowly slowly it gets busier and busier. To our surprise we hear (nearly) no Dutch. Strange, we run into our fellow country man all across the world, at the strangest places. We hear a lot of France. Typical, as we seldom encounter French people.




Snap! SCREAM .. Aaauu. Petra twists her ankle. She can still walk(ish), but at first we were afraid we just saw the end of the holidays. After another peep left and right and some final pics, we head back to La Luna.

Petra's ankle is quite swollen. Let's see what they have at reception. They only have a regular bandage, but that does the job for now. The rest of the afternoon we spend daydreaming, glaring over the ocean.

In the evening we decide to try something else for dinner. We wanted to try Shiva (Indian), but with Petra's ankle that was (way) too far. We end up at Ziggy's at the Beach. A very good choice with excellent food, just around the corner.

February 10th - Bycicle

Three bikes? No two. And, eh, we are not the "Jungle Room". "Ah. I thought it was the same reservation". Bad luck for the other folks than, and luckily we were early. To the left.

At the Gate of the Sian Ka'an Reserve they tell us the restaurant is 3 km. Okay, we can do that. Sign in (all people who enter need to register), and off we go. Hmmm. No restaurant to be found. And we are riding already some time. "The next 2 km or more is Private Houses only. No Restaurant. You better go back.". Which we do. Some 30 minutes later (so 5 to 6 km) we are back at the Gate. Still didn't see any restaurant!?

On our way back we stop a while at La Luna, and than continue to Mezzanine. Thai food. Looking forward to that. The view is breathtaking, but it is very warm on the terrace. The salad we ordered (green papaya and crispy beef) tasted very good, but I thought it was a little small (Petra said I was whining, they are this size everywhere!).




On our way back we buy a hammock for Elly. And than quickly back to our beach.

Dinner again at Ziggy's. Very good!

February 11th - Airport Transfer

Before we forget, we still have to arrange the airport transfer back. And that is less easy than I thought. I didn't expect the 16% tax to be added if we put it on the hotel bill (I remember now Koox also mentioned this difference between cash and credit card). So can pay cash or directly to the transfer company (Tucan Kin). We decide the latter. 3 Hrs later we get the answer: pay cash or PayPal (+5%) .... and no link to PayPal. Hmmm ... this is not working.

In the evening we check with Edmonda. Yes, 16% ... . But okay a local taxi ($90) + 16% is still better than $125++. "You can also ask the taxi to stop at the bank". "Or I can draw some cash tonight on my way home, if you are okay with that and trust me to do that?". We agree on the last one.




It's BBQ night. Abril en Paris is playing. We enjoy it a lot!

Tomorrow is our last day at this lovely place. Let's enjoy every minute of it.

February 12th - Last Day (45)

We are late out of bed today. All tables in the sun are already occupied. We have time, so we wait until one frees up.

Edmonda is at reception. "I tried 5 ATMs last night". "None of them had US dollars". "So I called the taxi company". "They confirmed it to be $1200mxn, so that is what have drawn for you". So sweet. All is arranged now. Time for breakfast. A table in the sun has freed up. And than to the beach, 3 steps down only, to enjoy a lovely sunny day slowly passing by.




A nice lunch. Some hanging in the waves. A walk over the beach ... .




And than that unwelcome moment: packing. We both are not looking forward to leaving this place. Live is soo good in this Caribbean Bubble. Not looking forward to work and winter. And than that other thing: at home I just turned 46. Here I still can enjoy a few hours of being 45 ... haha. So let's enjoy those few hours.

Despite the fresh lobster the local fishermen brought this afternoon, we decide to return to the neighbors for dinner. The lobster is good, but I already had that. And I didn't taste the Surf and Turf yet. (good choice!)

February 13th - Go Home


There are nicer ways to spend your holiday than flying halfway across the world. But it is what it is. First pay (less than I thought) and a last breakfast. The taxi is already waiting. Luggage in and there we go: 1:30 hrs to the airport, 2:30 hrs of waiting, 50 min to Varadero (Cabu), a little wait, 7:15 hrs (yes, THAT fast) to Brussels and than 1:30 hrs drive back home to Maastricht.

The Pelicans are badly missed ... .