South Ari Atoll (Alif Dhaal-atol )

Our last trip to the Maldives (Filitheyo) was a mix of very good and "could be better" experiences. The holiday in it self was very good, the diving however, could have been better. Some years ago we went to another part of the Maldives, where the diving was also very good: Vakarufalhi in the South Ari Atoll. Unfortunately Vakarufalhi had recently been upgraded (so became a lot more expensive) and is only on the market in Italy and Switzerland these days.

As we wanted to go back to the Maldives for our next Diving Holiday we therefore tried to find an alternative Island in the same area. It took us quite some time, but finally we decided for Vilamendhoo.



Accomodation @ Vilamendhoo



Vilamendhoo from the sky

 This Island used to be known as a "Divers Paradise", but didn't have a realy good reputation when comes to accomodation. Luckily also this Island is currently being upgraded (after an owner change). But different than Vakarufalhi it stays within an acceptable price range. Also the fact that its sister Island, Meeru, has very good reviews on the web. And knowing that the new acomodation would look a lot like Meeru. Made us decide to spend our next Diving Holiday there.

We'll post the experience on this blog on our return ....... somewhere in 2011. We can't wait to go!

Bagamoyo - Lazy Lagoon (Mino & Angel)

Continued from Ruaha - Mdonya Old River Camp.

October 10th - Arriving on our final desitination

We arrived quite late in Dar es Salam due to the 2 stop flight coming in. After picking up our bags and exiting the airport we were a little surprises nobody was waiting for us. Untill now transfers had been smooth. It was getting less and less busy, all passengers had been picked, but we were still on the side walk. What now? At that time luckily the woman from Foxes/SafariAirLink walked towards us: "You're the ones going to Lazy Lagoon?". "Yes". "I"ll call the driver".

After a quick soda at their office we went on our way to Bagamoyo. After a drive of an hour and a half we arrived at the small beach where the boat to Lazy Lagoon is launched. About 10 minutes later we finally arrived: "Welcome to Lazy Lagoon, we are very sorry but we currently don't have water".

Dinner was oké, but too tasty.

October 11th - Time to Relax

After the water arrived and we had a delicious Full English Breakfast, it was now time to wind down and relax ....... Petra is already sleeping.

We are doing a good job relaxing, as we were almost late for Lunch and ..... Afternoon Thee. Super, doing little to nothing, staring over the beautifull Indian Ocean.

October 12th ... 14th - Paradise found

Days fly by doing little to nothing. Lots of sleeping, a little reading, some snorkeling, walking the dogs - Mino & Angel - on the beautiful beach ... . Food is getting better and tastier by the day.

This place is really SO LAZY ... .

Ruaha - Mdonya Old River Camp (Tsee Tsee Flies)

Continued from Selous - Lake Manze Tented Camp.

October 7th - Arriving in Ruaha // Cheetah

The flight from Selous to Ruaha wasn't a direct flight, but had one stop after 35 minutes to drop off two staff member at a local Camp.

From there another 1 hours and 10 minutes in the tiny plane. And that was a little bit too much for Petra, who already didn't feel okay the last days. Only 15 minutes in the air and all came out. A big releave for her, but quite a mess in the plane.

The descent was quite bumpy and the temperature in the plane was going up and up. So also I wasn't feeling that well anymore. But fortunately not too bad, as we were now out of paper bags.

After the "paper work" and enjoying our packed lunch on the air strip, we picked up the British couple, that had arrived a lot earlier, to head for the Camp. A 3 to 4 hour Game Drive. Enroute we saw many animals, including a male Cheetah.
The last hour we didn't see any animals, and as soon as the car slowed down the car was full of Tsee Tsee Flies (according our guide the reason for the lack of animals in this area, as they feed on mammal blood). Close to the Camp the animals started to re-appear (they had some Tsee Tsee Fly control project going on).

Time to check-in, shower and after that: dinner.

Walking into our Tent it was clear that Mdonya Old River Camp (where we are staying for the next three nights) is the sister Camp of Lake Manze, as it was quite identical. So we felt home immediately!

October 8th - Leopard!

Tonight there was a lot of shuffling and snorting around our tent (Buffalo?). First breakfast and than out for a Full Day of Game Driving. The first part is very dull, where are the animals? And than, out of the blue, a pack of Lions. Males, females and cubs. So beautiful!

We continue and see the Lesser Kudu (with beautiful patterning, not seen often) and Greater Kudu. We see a Rock Hyrax in a tree (the small, and only, causin of the Elephant). Later that day we see one more. And than ... again a pack of Lions. The driver hits the breaks just as we go off road towards the Lions. Just in time as the Rangers are just passing by (leaving the road means a $50 'on the spot' fine for the Guide - a lot of money in Tanzania!). Once the Ranger has left, we quickly go for a peep. Again, a big Pride!

Next we head for lunch, but it seems to take forever before we really do .. . Hé, wasn't that the picknick spot at the right? So why are we passing by? A Leopard had been spotted nearby, hence the detour. Unfortunately the male Leopard is nowhere to be seen. But wait, ....... what is that in the tree back there? Finally, a Leopard (after missing this elusive animal in Kenia and India - finally we are lucky). It's a female. Quickly some pic's and a movie, before she disappears in the undergrouth.

After lunch we return towards Mdoya. Again we take a detour, and bump into a pack of Lions - with a three month old cub. The guide was already surprised to see so little animals in a place normally packed with life (it is close to a pool where all come to drink). So he read the signs right, because on the Kopjes (Wikipedia: The Kopjes of Eastern Africa tend to be a refuge for life in the Serengeti of Tanzania and Kenya. Where the soil is too thin or hard to support tree life in large areas, soil trapped by Kopjes can be dense with trees while the surrounding land contains only short grass. Hollows in the rock surfaces provide catchments for rainwater.^[10] Many animals have adapted to the use of Kopjes, to include the lion, hyrax, and an abundance of bird and reptile life.) they where. Until now that already adds up to 37 Lions.

Next to the above we also spotted today:
2 Gennet
2 Bateared Foxes
A few Jackals
Banded Mongoose
And of course the 'usual':
Elephant, Impala, Zebra, Giraffe, Dik-Dik, Warthog, etc etc

Really a beautiful day (together with Kath and Chris from the UK and Kahimba our Guide), so tomorrow we will opt for a "Full Day" again!

October 9th - Lions & Honey

A quick shower (and yes, those Tented Camp Outdoor Showers are sooo gooood!) before we leave for our last "Full Day of Game Driving". And what a day. Okay, it was hard to beat yesterday, but counting all we had seen we got close: 22 Lions, of which six 3 to 4 month old cubs (bringing our total in Ruaha at 59 Lion spotted in only 2 days!)

During lunch our Guide gave us a lecture on Honey Poaching*, the Tanzanian school system, cost of living ($110/month needed at least for a family of 4) and corruption in the Tanzanian politics to name a few topics.

* Due to the Honey Poaching there were a lot of Wild Fires around the Camp. The poachers leave the torches they use to smoke out the bees, to create the fires - keeping the Rangers busy, while they can escape. And all that for a merely 40 liters of Honey a month, worth only $50.

On our way back we search for the Cheetah, but no luck this time. We have a stop at an Owl in a tree (in the morning we had seen a chick of the same kind) before we return to Camp.

October 10th - The Mdonya Pride

After a slow breakfast, paying and checking out, we left Mdonya Old River Camp and headed for the Airstrip. On our way there the Driver (no additional Guide today as we were only transfering) spotted the local Lion Pack: The Mdonya Pride. Another sixteen (!) Lions, bringing our grant total during our three days stay in Mdonya at SeventyFive Lions ... whaow.
The Pride was eating a Giraffe, killed earlier in the morning. Despite seeing so many Lions, these were the first we saw eating, in stead of sleeping/resting. The Giraffe is totally opened, guts out. Ooh my God, what a smell.

 

After having dropped some items (post) at one of the airstrips, we continue on a very bad road ... and there is nothing to see, so what's the point? Aah, we were heading for a lunch area near the Ruaha River.One of the places that hadden't dried out, so all Crocidiles and Hippos had congrigated here. And the Crocs were enormous. They use this place to bridge the 1 to 2 months before the rain in the mountains start to fill river again.

The many Crocs, but also Marabou, had plenty to eat, as the fish could simply be scooped up. Both death and alive (the water was very hot and had obviously little to no oxigen, so difficult to survive for the fish).

After lunch we returned to Airstrip. Luckily a bigger plane this time (Chessna Caravan 208) and ..... the same Pilot* as to Selous. A warm re-union of Pilot and Co-Pilot.
 * We heard she was from Argentina, explaining the accent

The flight to Dar Es Salam had 2 stops. One at Selous and one near "The Tides".


To be continued .....

Selous - Lake Manze Tented Camp (Painted Dog)

October 3rd - Leaving for Tanzania

Woke up early (at 4:10 - before the alarm). Quikc shower and hopped in the car. On our way to Schiphol airport. We arrive nice and early, no stress. Our flight - to Kilimanjaro - leaves at 11:00, and arrives at 20:10 local time (+1 hr). After a short stop of 1.5 hours the flight continues to Dar Es Sallam, where we arrive on scheduled at 22:30. After arranging our visa ($50 each), we were taken to our 'stop-over' hotel.

October 4th - Co-Pilot

After a good breakfast we are collected at 9:00 to return to Dar Es Sallam airport for our local flight (at 10:30) to Selous. Hopefully the bagage is not an issue, as it is quite a bit more than the allowed 15kg each.

The flight was very nice. We had a femal pilot (Seqai) and Petra was allowed to sit next to her, on the Co-Pilot seat. After we quick detour off about an hour to Zanzibar, where we collected another 6 passangers, the Chessna Grand Caravan flew us in about 1 hour to one of the airstrips in Selous.

As some leaving guest had to wait for the next plane we were asked to stay at Selous International Airport (a picnic table and a toilet) and have our packed lunch there.

After an hour drive, which was already a kind of Game Drive as we saw many animals, we arrived at Lake Manze Tented Camp - our stay for the next nights. On arrival we were offered lunch - a real one - after which we went to our tent. #6 and a real nice one!

16:00 we left for our first Game Drive. And boy, what did we already see a lot of animals!
Impala, Zebra, Giraf, Wildebeest, Hyena, Hippo's, Elandantilope, Croc's, Buffalo's, Elephants, Baboons, Warthogs, Mongoose, Lion's eating and ..... the reason we picked Selous: African Wild Dogs!! Moreover, we saw them hunting, and capturing 3 Impala baby's.

October 5th - Rafiki

During last nights dinner the signs were already there. Petra felt far from good. Last night a soar throat, this morning feaverish. Conclusion is that she, unfortunately, can't join for the morning Game Drive. So she takes 2 paracetamol and returns to bed.

I join the morning Game Drive, joined by a Dutch mother and daugther (Melany & Dorien), and to British sisters (Emma & Jane). We saw pretty much the same as yesterday afternoon, only no dogs this time (no surprise as they are vary rare and always on the move). We did see, as an 'extra', a Kudu and a Loiness that seems to be lost (the guide was sure she didn't belong to the Prides in that region). And we looked very very hard for the Leopard. But no luck in finding this elusive animal.

Back in the camp Rafiki (the local 'resident' Elephant) was snooping around our neighbours tent.

Petra had slept a big part of the morning (she had been served breakfast on the veranda) and had enjoyed the Impala, the Baboons and of course Rafiki around the tent (Lake Manze Camp has no fences, so all wild animals can wonder through the camp without any restriction). She was feeling better than in the morning, but was far from fit yet.

After lunch in the main tent - where again Rafiki was snooping around - we decided to do a boat Safari (Lake Manze Camp offers Jeep, Boat and Walking Safari's), a very good choice! We saw Giraf crossing the Channel (connection between Lake Manze and the Rufiji River). Hippo's, Croc's, Buffalo, Waterbuck and loads and loads of Birds: Kingfisher, Herron, Ibis, Eagles and Bee-eater. Marvelous.

When we arrived back at the camp we heared Elephants everywhere. Petra, saw 4 Elephants when she returned to the tent. Due to that she got a lecture from one of the Masai, as she shouldn't have walked by herself!! (the Masai are guarding the camp day and night and escort the guest to and from the tents during the dark).

When we returned to our tent after dinner, escorted by a Masai, we saw a Gennet running away ....

October 6th - Searching for the Leopard

The morning starts with good and bad news. The good news is that the camp reserved a Jeep just for the 2 of us (on our request, to be able to return to the camp in case Petra was feeling too bad - without disappointing other guests on the jeep). The bad news was that Petra still felt sick. But okay, we were going to give it a try.

The first we spotted was a Hyena with cub. It was very cute as the cub was trying to hide in a, too small, whole in a big tree. Like little childern would do, it stuck it's head in so it couldn't see us anymore, assuming we couldn't see it anymore either.

Somewhat further: "A Leopard cub ..... oh no, it's a Gennet". Yes, we were looking for the elusive Leopard again. And since our guide is trying hard he sees them more often than they are there. After having enjoyed another range of animals and splendid views Nahumu (our Guide) and Abu (the Jeep driver) got word that a Leopard had been spot. It took us about half an hour to get there. We searched extremely well, but didn't find the Leopard. We had breakfast at Lake Manze (picnic) with a nice view over the lake and with that the animals in (Croc's) and around (drinking Impala)  the lake.

After breakfast we continued our search, without success. Nahumu admitted the previous group same only a tail disappear in a ditch. On our return drive to the camp we saw Hartebeest, mother and young Bushbuck (very shy and rare to see), and just before we reached the camp 3 Lionesses - mother and 2 almost full grown daughtrers. They had tried to catch a baby Giraf - unsuccessfully.

Nahumu had told us that the Wild Dogs hadn't been seen last two days, so we decided for a boat safari - on the Lake this time. We had the same captain (Rashidi) as last time, and were joined by the Swiss couple that had just arrived. The boat ride was very relaxed, but not as exiting as the one on the Channel the other day ... untill a small fish jumed in the boat ....  what a panic.

Tomorrow we will have breakfast at 7:00 (so we sleep long). At 8:00 we are planned to leave for the air strip to leave for Ruaha.

October 7th - Leaving Selous, arriving at Ruaha

On our way to the air strip we spotted a male and female Lion, so we had a quick stop for some pic's. From there we continued straight for the air strip. Just before we arrived the Guide and the Driver had quite an argument. No idea why (1. the driver walked off for a leak just around the corner where the lions were? or 2. the guide wanted to go to see some other Lions as they were having cubs - while actually there was no time?). The cubs were nowhere to be seen, so we had to quickly continue.

A Leopard had been spot nearby. Chance of a lifetime, so the plane can wait (we hope). Speeding through the shrubs and bumping over fallen over trees we arrived there. First falls alarm: a Gennet (again). But than, allthough very short, we saw our first wild Leopard!

And then, as quick as we could (yes, flat out) over the dirt roads to catch our plane. We arrived just in time, pfeww. This time not a big 12 seater Caravan, but a small 5+Pilot seater. Hardly bigger than a car.

To be continued.....

Kuala Lumpur (Hell)

Continued from "Villa Markisa (Heaven)"

We just had ordered lunch, when we received our first (of many) sms: "Can you fly due to the vulcane?" We think: "Vulcano on Java?". Still not really knowing what was going on we flew to Kuala Lumpur.

April 16th - Eyjafjallajokull

Arriving at KL it became clear very soon what the issue was: a vulcano reuption in Iceland had block all european airtraffic. The european airspace was closed! What now?

The message given at the Malaysia Airlines desk wasn't predicting a lot of good: "We are very sorry. Natural desaster. We can't do anything for you. I don't think you will fly toninght". Aftef a few frustrating telephone calls, which didn't get us any further, we decide to leave the airport and go to KL city.

Passed immigration the situation is a lot clearer than inside the terminal. Our luggage, without us requesting it, had already been taken out of transit and where 'waiting' for us next to the luggage claim belt. At the hotel and the taxi desk we are helped quickly and professionally. At midnight we arrive at the 5-start Maya Hotel. Our stay for the next 2 days.

Before we go to sleep I call Malaysia Airlines. After having waitd in the cue for 30 minutes, I am told we are re-booked on the Sunday evening flight (assuming it ..... ).

Van Maya - Kuala Lumpur 2010

April 17th - Stranded


Breakfast is very good, with huge selection. When checken the website of our travel insurance we conclude we are insured for such an event. We only have to contact them to register, and so we do. Now we are here, let's try to make the best of it.
 
And that is easier said than done. KL is not the most excting city. After one day - (window)shopping, swimming, eating, browsing the internet and talking to the other stranded tourists - we already striped off most of the 'to do' options.
 
Last update: MH006 KL to FRA on April 18th is cancelled. So what now? Tuesday? Or even worse? Hmmm, let's not think about that scenario yet.
 
Calling MA: "you are number 26 in line, you will be served in 72 minutes". Whatever. Let's try again tomorrow, first get some sleep.
 
April 18th - Sand Tigers
 
In the morning first thing: call MA. I waited from being number 18 in cue until being number 4 in cue, almost through: disconnected! Try again. Number 22 in cue. After 16 minutes I am through. I am given a reference number (KH79E). But basically they have no updates. I am advised to call back in the evening or tomorrow. I am told we are on the first flight, but they have no idea when that will be.
 
We added 2 nights to our stay. No issue, they had sufficient capacity. Maya even lowered the price to that for a standard room (395++ iso 495++), despite us being in a Deluxe Suite.
 
To kill some time we went to the Aquarium. It was very busy, with lots of screaming children. It was also very Asian: "Do you want to touch the Bamboo Shark?". On the other hand, the big tank was super! Especially the huge Stingray and the Sand Tigers (man, I would love to see these in the open ocean).

Van Maya - Kuala Lumpur 2010

 
April 19th - KL Sentral
 
In the morning we head to KL Sentral, where MA has a terminal (yes, you can check in in the middle of the city). At the desk they give us two options A) We can go to the airport to be standbye for a flight to Rome (the only European airport MA flies to that is still open), or B) They call us when our flight is due. As option A) was given to everybody at KL Sentral (so also passengers for Amsterdam. London and Paris) we didn;t epxect to much of it. Conclusion: we are not going to the airport tonight.
 
Latest update: MH006 KL to FRA on April 20th is cancelled. Tomorrow we must add another 2 days to our stay.
 
April 20th - Hope
 
The day passed by like a blur: sleeping, browsing the internet, watching BBC world news, lunch, browsing the internet ....... all the stories your read and hear don't make you feel better. It may take days, weeks, months!
 
In the early evening we bumped into Rene and Nell (a retired couple from Zeeland) and nice conversation with them. Back at the hotel: talk to other stranded tourists, browse the internet, call MA - unable to get through. It's like on endless circle - going nowhere.
 
We decided to try again at KL Sentral. There we are told: "you are booked on the Friday flight".
 
Back at the hotel we alerted the others and advised them to go to KL Sentral as well. It's 23:15 you can still be in time before they close.
 
April 21st - Reality
 
The 'Stick insects club" (a Dutch - Belgian hobby club interested in stick insects) had been to KL Sentral. Obviously transit has priority. So they are not going home yet. We head to KL Sentral to check if all is still okay for us.
 
No, your on waiting list. Not confirmed ......
 
We decide not to let get to us (at least for now) and take a taxi to KL Tower. Hmmm, 38 ringit. No way. Let's do the nature trail, it's for free! After having lost 2 liters of body fluid and being stung by 20 - 30 muscito's we return to our hotel room. At these times you appreceate airco .... and a cold shower.
 
The rest of the day was not that exciting. The manager of the Maya hotel offered to arrange a bus to the airport and help us book a local hotel. He also had connections that had connections at MA. Allthough he appreceated our business he wanted to help us. And according him you needed to be at  the airport to grasp the opportunities that arose, if you wanted to get home soon.
 
Little later Nell and Rene returned from the airport: "choas". So going there doesn't seem to be the better option? The Brits had arranged ticktes (confirmed seats - with seat numbers) at KL Sentral?!
 
Tomorrow we wanted to get up early and give it a try again. But first I call MA again. No success. It's 02:00 o'clock, we need some sleep.
 
April 22nd - Free at last
 
06:00 in the morning: the alarm. Auch, that's early. Bèh, I want to sleep. Petra is anoyed by my 'no actoin': "either we go to KL Sentral or we call NOW". Okay okay.
 
I am 3rd in cue, woaw that's fast. "I can put you on todays flight at 12:30 o'clock" - am I dreaming ??!! - "just provide your reference number or eticket at the airport, that's it". 15 minutes later we have packed our bags and showered.
 
Quick webcheck: YES, the 12:30 flihgt is really on!
 
A few minutes later we are down at reception with our lugage, check out and are in a taxi to the airport. 10 to 8 we arrive at the airport. "Frankfurt is desk E & F sir" Petra doesn't trust it and double checks at another desk. No, E&F is for regular booked flights, you need to go to C17 & 18, around the corner.
 
In the lines at C17 there are some French, some Dutch, bus loads of British, but no Germans? Still, we are in the line for Frankfurt? Everybody, yes everybody, is offered to be transfered to the Frankfurt flight. "connection from there is for yourself to arrange".

It becomes very obvious that the "we will call you when your flight is due" is a lie. The only way to get home is be in line at the airport when an extra plane is announced - the manager from Maya was right!

Announcement: "We are very sorry MH0004 to London is now closed. The plane is full. ... ''. Shit, I hope we will be at the desk in time - the line is so slow.

Being confirmed on this flight, as I was told on the phone, we don't believe anymore.

After almost 2 hours in line it's our turn: Seat 40A and 40C (the LAST row in the plane)! Also the diving luggage (65kg alltogther) is no issue. Are we really going home?

After pass immigration we look for an internet portal, so we can send a message to Rene and Nell. Unfortunatelly we can't get on our webmail. Little later we bump into a guy who also stayed at Maya. He was only stranded on Tuesday, but was lucky enough to be at the airport at the right time (his travel agent had warned him to be there to be on the extra flight to Amsterdam). He was booked on tomrrows extra flight to Amsterdam (again confirming that first stranded, first returned home, was a lie as well).

Big applause as the cabin crew boars to plane (it was like a rock star entrance). Damn, it looks like we are really goijng home!

Now, 3 hours enroute to Frankfurt, it is almost like a bad dream. As if we are simply returning from our holiday and the "KL episode" didn't really happen. The mental rollercoaster has almost come to an end. Still nine and half hours to fly, followed by three hours by car, and we are back home.

Unbelievable, the FIRST extra flight to Frankfurt, even before the first regular flight, and we are on it.

[following MAS's web it's even more dramatic as this was both the first and the last extra flight to Frankfurt - all others that did were origional from Frankfurt, but didn't catch this plane must have gone home through Amsterdam or Paris - and from there one ..... they were on there own]

Villa Markisa (Heaven)

Continued from "Lotus Bungalows (Mola Mola)"

After a drive of about 45 minutes to an hour we arrived at Villa Markisa: "Paradise found"! Wauw, this looks really great. Yes, we are on holiday again. [sms from home: Griezel, our cat, is back home]

April 9th - The Liberty

Get up early! Appointment at the dive shop at 6:30 in the morning. Today we will do our first dive at Villa Markisa. We are going to dive the famous Liberty Wreck. And since it can be crowded ..... we leave early. The dive guides are a little vague in their communication (because they are still young?), but in 15 minutes all is arranged and off we go to the wreck (I quickly changed the straps from my fins to Petra's as the Aqualung fins from VM are we too big for Petra, for me they will do I guess).

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

We left early and are the first to arrive. Wauw, what a beautiful site. And so many fish. All the natives, as described on many stories of the Liberty Wreck, are home: The Great Barracuda, the Bumphead Parrotfish, the big swirling school of Jacks and many more. As it's getting busier by the minute and we are slowly running out of air we move back to VM for breakfast, which is very good by the way.

In the afternoon we head for the house reef. Our guide already tells us before we go in that the Harlequin Shrimp's are gone. Hmmm, pitty. The dive is however very nice. We saw a lot of nice critters. Amongst others a Tiger Shrimp (unfortunately taking a picture wasn't that easy). Our guide spend another 10-15 minutes looking for a small Frogfish, but couldn't find it.

In the late afternoon Petra treater herself to a Body Scrub. It was "Heaven" she said when returning. In the maintime I read my book.

Dinner - a mix of Indonesian and Thai - was very good! (I have to watch myself, I am eating too much)

April 10th - Pink Frogfish

After breakfast - it's approximately 09:00 o'clock - we leave for our first dive of the day: Bulaken. The attraction of this site is a big Pink Frogfsih. And yes, it was a very nice looking Frogfish. We also saw 2 sorpion leaf fish and of course lots of nice little stuff.

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

Strange though, that I seem to be using quite a lot of air (after about 30 minutes only 60 bar left). Due to that I fininsh the dive, after 60 minutes, with only 30 bar in my tank. And that hasn't happened for a long time. When checking Petra's gauge she still had a normal 60 bar left after 60 minutes. Hmmm, normally we are quite equal on air usage.

The second dive site was near the first dive site. A nice dive with an Octopus and again, lots of fish. And the air usage . . . . 50 bar left after a 70 minutes dive. Not bad. Not bad at all.

Time for lunch: Gado gado with chicken saté. Jammy.

In the early evening we added a night dive. Very funny, especially all those small eyes in the beam everywhere you look. Small crabs and shrimps. Some little octopus. And a few squid, 3 small ones and a big one (which I could video nicely in the beam of our torches).

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

After dinner some bad news: the Harlequin Shrimps (which Seraya Secret, Villa Markisa's house reef is famous for and which we had never seen before) were nowhere to be found.

April 11th - Shoes

Whose shoes are that?  . . . . . . And where are mine? . . . . . Hmmm, I believe I have put on Pacek, our dive guide, his shoes yesterday after the night dive. When checking at the dive shop that seemed to have happened. Few minutes later Pacek arrives at the dive shop . . . . on my flipflops.

At 09:00 o'clock we leave for Alumie (left from VM), where after a few minutes, the main attrackion has been located: Pygmy Seahorses (hippocampus bargibanti). We count four of them in the pink fan.

During our second dive, at Emerald, we are acompanied again by the Bumphead Parrotfish. A Napoleon, that seemed to have almost bit my noose, I completely overlooked. I saw Petra and Dharma, our dive guide for the day, making the typical sign, but I thought they ment the Bumpheads. Luckely I saw the second one cruising by.

In the afternoon, after lunch, I finished my book: Hypnose by Lars Kepler. A nice thriller. At the same moment Christianne, VM's owner, and 3 dive guides step out of the water: Success! They found a baby Harlequin Shrimp. So, tomorrow afternoon I may do a house reef.

To finish off the afternoon Petra treats herself to a Spa treatment. And I go or a half an hour swim in the pool.

April 12th - Two-tank dive

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

This morning we plan for a two-tank dive. At about 08:00 o'clock we leave for Lipah Bay. A 25 minutes boat ride. The dive site is very beautiful. In the shalows a sunken Japanese Patrol boat, full of soft corals. The rest of the dive site is full of hard corals and, again, loads of colourfull fish.

After our safety interval of an hour (and a bit), in which we had a nice chat with our three (!!) dive guides and the captain, we head for our second dive: a wall. Well . . .  a wall. Only for a few minutes than. After that it seems like thPacek had lost his way (it had been 3 months since he dived this site). A lot of death coral, with here and there a nice patch. Unfortunately not too exciting.

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

After lunch (Nasi Goreng - aj, we are eating too much here - it's too good) I have a dive on the house reef with Christianne, Dharma and guide "3" (later on I remebered his name is Tisnu). We saw lots of small critters, but unfortuantely no Harlequin Shrimp. Petra spend her afternoon reading her book on one of the sun beds in VM's beautiful garden.

April 13th - Just a wonderfull day

We started the day with two dives. The first one at Kubu, where we saw lot's of nice stuff. An Octopus, a Sepia and two Tapestryshrimp. On the second dive (to Batu Belah) we were accompanied by Christianne - who took all 3 young dive guides (Dharma, Tisnu and Rasni) on the boat the have then gaining experience - and Judith - a friend of the house - joined. Also during this dive we again saw lot's of nice stuff. For example a Brittle Star. After 84 minutes (yes, dives at VM are not limitted to 60 minutes at all) we ended another fantastic dive.

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

After lunch (we could choose, so again a Gado gado with chicken saté - so good) we dozed off on a sun bed in the garden. Petra did some reading. I had a swim in the pool. So nice, a lazy afternoon.

April 14th - Baby Baby Baby

Rise and shine! We are trying a second round at the Liberty, so out of bed early. Hmmmm . . . nobody at the dive shop? The captain is also very surprised that none of the dive guides had showed up yet. He immediately calls Dharma to check what happened. About ten minutes later we hear Dharma singing his favourit song - Baby Baby Baby oooh ooh a / by Justin Beaber - when he walks around the corner towards the dive shop (we think he had a little party last night). And now rush rush to the Liberty!

Again - it's such a beautifull site. No surprise it's so famous.

After a lovely breakfast we head for Coral Garden, accompanied by Pacek and "Gegen gegen" (don't know why, but Rasni said that alll the time). A very nice dive with a little bit of everything. The nicest of which a small Sepia.

Time for lunch: Soto Ajam.

After spending the afternoon relaxing we headed for our last dive: a night dive. Luckily the wind had calmed down - after a beautiful morning the whether suddenly changed: wind, thunder & lightning in the afternoon. Again a very nice dive, with again a surprise: 3 Ghost pipefish, a baby Frogfish and same Tiger shrimp.
This last dive of our holiday in Bali was my 299th dive. Petra still tops me, it was her 300th dive!!

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

Time for dinner.

New guests. a Swiss bruiser, with wife and son. And a french couple. After the Engineer from California and the weird American couple from Pakistan (and before that Djibouti) we have had quite a circus passing by. Therefore the past two days had been so nice. No other guests, just us on our Private Villa!

April 15th - Damn knee

As with every dive holiday you can't dive the last day. The body has to de-tox before you are allowed to fly. So we spend the whole day being lazy and doing little to nothing. Okay, we had to pack our diving gear and the eveing pack our bags.

Oh no. The knee feeling 'thight' and my left lower leg started to tingle. Shit, it's starts to swell again - just as it did two days before leaving for Bali - now that we have to fly for hours and hours tomorrow.

April 16th - Leaving heaven, heading for .....

In the morning, after breakfast, we settled the bill. At least, we made an attempt. Internet banking didn't work (the connection must have been too slow). And the next option, using a Credit Card, also failed (again, no connection). Fortunatelly Christianne proposed to settle the bill back home. What kind guesture - and so trustfull!

Time to say goodbye - waived goodbye by all (yes all) the staff we drove off to the airport.

The ride to Denpassar (2:45 hours) was quite smooth. So was the check in and immigration. We just had ordered lunch, when we received our first (of many) sms: "Can you fly due to the vulcano?"

To be continued .........

Other nice video's shot while being at Villa Markisa:

• My fingers being cleaned by shrimp
• Nice crab
• Clownfish (Nemo) in a white anemone

Lotus Bungalows (Mola Mola)

Continued from "Magnificent Kajane (the leg)"

Van Holidays Diving Dreaming

April 3rd - Arriving at Lotus Bungalows

After a long drive we arrived at Lotus Bungalows. Hmmm ..... that's a few levels down comparred to Kajane - the place we stayed the previous days. Also the food is quite simple. Of course this was to be expected, after staying at your all time favourit first. So let's make the best of it and hopefully the diving - the main reason we booked LB - is lots of fun.

Tomorrow our 1st dive @ Nusa Penida!

Van Lotus Bungalows - Candidasa 2010

April 4th - Mola Mola [Easter]

How different the next day can be! Okay, we didn't sleep super - the bed is small, the airco noisy and so is the fridge (which I unplugged in the middle of the night) - and the breakfast wasn't either. BUT ... the diving, the main reason, or better 'the one and only reason', we decided to go to LB is very very good organized! Everthing (yes everthing - except the diving itself of course) is being done for you. And the boat is extremely good (best boat we have ever been on!). And that's only the part above water ....

Going under it was a real treat. Beautiful coral reefs (we didn't know what to expect - and this is for sure better than what we hoped for!), good visibility and than - totally unexpected, as it is by far not the good season to see them: A Mola Mola!

Our first dive in Bali, and than to see a Mola Mola. Wauw. The huge fish came slowly up to about 27m, and stayed there quite some time (to be cleaned by butterflyfish). In the mid of the dive another Mola Mola come up and close. Seeing these fish feels like being in Jurasic Park. It also feels cold, brrrrr. These fish are normally only to be seen in August - September, when the water is much much colder (16-19°C), when they come in with the Antarctic undercurrents. Also now they came up in a cold upwelling. The water temperature dropped from about 27°C to about 20°C around the Mola Mola. And that's COLD if your only wearing a 5mm dive suite!



Back on the boat we enjoyed our lunch: Nasi Goreng. Which tasted good (and so did the sweet sambal), so they actually know how to cook. Back at LB it's time to relax on the big lounge beds at the sea side and enjoy a Watermelon Juice. Dinner was tasting good: Hunger? Adjustment? Or ..... it may not be so bad after all?! Tomorrow: Manta Point - we really hope they will be there - fingers crossed!

[I finished my 1st book: Bad Intentions by Karin Fossum]

April 5th - Manta Point

After I good sleep (putting the airco on "quiet" helps!") we headed to the boat with the following dive plan: 1st dive 'somewhere around "Nusa Penida", 2nd dive "Manta Point" and 3rd dive again "Manta Point" if the 2nd one wasn't successfull. The reason is that, due to the Manta mating season, they hadn't seen Manta's for more than a week. The obviously were doing 'their own thing' and didn't want all the diving paparazzi around.

The first dive was according plan. During the dive we saw a nice turtle. On our way to the second dive spot the sea was getting rougher as we had to pass the channel between Nusa Lenbongan and Nusa Penida. We were todl that 70.000 liters of seawater every second is passing this channel (the Pacific Ocean pours into the India Ocean 'through' Indonesia as she is a few meters (!) higher).

Petra was already feeling a little nauseous due to this. During the dive we had a constant surge, making it even worse. After a long hour of waiting and searching for the manta's, we had to conclude they weren't there. But we were lucky to see quite a big (significantly bigger as the 1.04m Wikipedia reports!) Brownbanded Bamboo Shark. Due to the surge I almost 'fell' on it, and she swam away. And than our dive guide found an Octopus (and they are soo lovely).



Back on the boat we decided to skip the third dive (we all agreed that the chances of seeing a manta didn't outway staying on a rocky boat during lunch and than getting back in the surge .... for an hour).

The boat headed for a calm bay for lunch. In the bay we met the other boat of Gangga Divers (the owners of LB). They had the big (14 persons) Spanish group on board that stayed at LB. [our luck, as we were 3 divers - the 2 of us and Karoline, a German woman, and 2 dive guides!] All the empty tanks were put on our boat to make some room on theirs. We understood they were going to have a try at Manta Point for their third dive - we wished them the best off luck. Maybe tonight, during the "Balinese Evening" we will hear if they were successfull.

April 5th - Springrolls with Satay sauce

What a lovely day! First dive with a lot of current. Nicely 'flying' over a beautiful and colourfull reef. The seccond reef was a little less nice (some dead patches), but still, a very nice dive!

Van Lotus Bungalows - Candidasa 2010

During lunch we ordered Springrolls with Satay sauce. And that Satay sauce was soooo goooood. Makes you wonder why they served satay without sauce yesterday evening during the Balinese Evening?!

In the evening we made a night dive. And what a night dive. Superduper. So many nice things to see, to much to mention. Also our favourit, the Sepia (or Cuttlefish) and the Octopus, as well as a bright orange frog fish!

April 6th - Snapping straps

The last full day at LB. Today 2 dives near two small islands just off Bali (known as Shark Point). O no, Petra's fin strap snaps. What, also the next one snaps!! Strange, one dives a 100+ dives without issues, and now they both snap in a few seconds??!!

Luckily we could use a pair from the dive shop which they had on the boat. They were actually too big, but it would do for a day.

The dive site itself was very nice, but visability was bad (peasoup). The second dive was supposed to be current dive according dive giude Putu (our dive guide of the previous days, Wayan, didn't join last night and didn't come along today - no idea why?!). Karoline didn't fancy a struggle in the current and decided to stay on the boat. She was kind enough to borrow Petra her fins: much more comfortable, as they were the same brand and size as her own. Underwater we found out that there was no current at all. We did see a Whitetip Reef Shark.

In the afternoon Karoline invited us to join her for a small drink. She brought a Bailays like liqueur from South Africa (with an Eliphant on the label, made from a flower they obviuously liked). We chatted all afternoon. Very nice!



Looking back we really enjoyed our stay at LB. Also to food seemed to improve by the day. Funny though that they mastered Italian food better than Indonesian (the Pizza's were good!). As so often, number 13 was with me again: Room #113, Dive Box #13. Yep, it was okay.
The dive shop was very very good, with a 2-tank dive EVERY day. As we prefer it.

April 8th - A little ripped off

The last breakfast at LB (jammy, bacon and eggs). Quickly pack the dive gear and than settle the bill ...... auch ..... that's a big disappointment! The exchange rate was very very bad (should be 8.x Rupiah per Dollar, it was 10 Rupiah per Dollar), so the Credit Card bill, which was in Rupiah, was quite a bit higher than expeted. On top of that they added 2% Credit Card cost. Well, what can you do. Swipe the card, close your eyes, sign and move on!

After saying goodbye to Karoline we left for our next, and last, stop in Bali.

To be continued .......

Magnificent Kajane (the leg)

Van Holidays Diving Dreaming

March 26th - Two days before the trip to Bali


Thursday evening (March 25th) panic: My leg (lower left) was totally swolen. I called the doctor immediatelly the next morning. Appointment at 12 o'clock. Explained the situation (Bechterew, just back from Detroit, leg/knee is hurting already quite some time, etc, etc). We went through a medical flow chart: slight indication for DVT (Deep vein thrombosis). So, off we went to the AZM (Academic Hospital in Maastricht) to get my blood tested. At about 15:00 hours the doctor called to brief the outcome: not good. An echo is needed to be sure. At 16:00 hours back at the AZM to get an echo: No thrombosis. We can go to Bali! [but what is the issue with the leg ...?]


March 27th - One day before the trip to Bali


My sisters 12½ wedding anniversary: the leg wasn't getting any better. It was getting worse.

March 28th - Leaving for Bali

Sunday morning. Getting up to leave for Frankfurt. Shit, now the knee is also swolen! .... Flight to KL was smooth. We sat on row 11, so the front row, and I therefore could stretch my leg easily. But after 12 hours of flying ..... it wasn't getting better.

Stop-over in Kuala Lumpur (few hours) and walking is getting worse. To be sure, and since the knee feels instable, we buy a knee support band and some elastic bandage. And now .. to Denpassar (~3 hrs flight).

March 29th - Arriving in Bali
Damn, I can barely walk anymore when landed in Denpassar. Leaving the knee support band on in the plane was obviously not very smart.

Van Kajane Mua - Ubud 2010

Customs, imigration, bagage reclaim, it all goes smoothly, and the boy from Kajane is also already waiting for us. Immedately when arriving at our privat pool villa in Ubud I call my own doctor in Maastricht: Bechterew (diagnosed about 2 months ago) was not known to him. The medication that I already take due to that is also what he would suggest for muscule or tendon issues. So, rest and put ice on it to reduce the swelling was the advise. In case the issue is in the joint (what doesn't seem to be the case) than I may go to the local hospital for further treatment.

What a mess - on the possitive side: "The Holiday can start!".

In the evening we had a nice dinner, just a cross the street, at Cinta. Hopefully tomorrow things have improved.

March 30th - Ubud

Long night, despite of that I slept well. When going to the toilet in the middle of the night walking was also much better. Petra looked for the button of the light outside of the villa (as it was a litte too bright). No success.

In the morning walking was again more difficult. Under the shower I could, again, only stand on one leg. So, as before, ice on the leg and keep it high. Later in the day I did some 'excersize' in the pool. Yes, that helps. Walking to the restaurant for lunch is doable. During luch we had a tropical downpour. Now back to the villa for our afternoon thee.

Quite enjoyable, doing nothing all day. But I hope my mobility improves tomorrow.

Next task: to the restaurant for dinner. Going was easy, coming back more difficult. The calf muscle was cramped (a 'long' pain over the middle of the muscle). The knee is still warm, but if I walk carefully and use the knee band, I am fine.

March 31st - Sarong

Second half of the night I was sweating quite bad (just like yesterday), due to which my back was stiff in the morning. I better cut back on the spicy food?!

The swelling is reducing. Will be well after all?

Petra has been to the local market where she has bought 2 very nice sarongs. A coton and a silk one, both with bird print.

Walking is improving. The leg is swelling every time I attempt to walk, and sit down normally. But it's getting less and less on average.

In the evening we, again, had a nice dinner at Cinta. I chose the lean Tuna Steak - so my diet may be okay!

April 1st - Bag and Bike

Today again a lovely day in Ubud (although the above may read as 'all bad', we had planned to relax at our beautiful privat pool villa, and that's exactly what we have been doing). After breakfast we went shopping - Petra bought herself a nice blue 'summer' bag in the town center. We did all by foot - so yes, things are improving significantly. After that we picked up the (free to use) bikes (or what they call bikes here) at Kajane, to go to a nice restaurant for lunch. In between and after these activities floated, swam and 'excersized' in the villa's pool. After an afternoon nap we went to our favourite restaurant: Cinta. This may sound dull, but it's just across the street and the food is good, so .... .

A little bit of reading and than a nice and relaxed day in Ubud is ended.

April 2nd - Sightseeing

Van Kajane Mua - Ubud 2010

It's time to see something else than our pool villa. Time to do some sightseeing! We rented a car with driver from the hotel ($15/hr only) and headed for the 'things to see' in the Ubud area. Our first stop was to see the world famous rice paddies around Ubud. After making some pic's of the scenery We drove on to Petulu, the fanous town of the White Herrons (our driver told us to watch out for the birds droppings - at the same time he explained, with a smile, the locals percieved this as blessings). Next stop, the Goa Gajah - or Eliphant cave. Last stop was to overlook the river Ayung Gorge. This is where the out of budget hotels (like the Fourseasons) are located. And it is clear why! We visited one, the Royal Pita Maha, that is owned by a/the Bali royal family.

Van Kajane Mua - Ubud 2010

A very nice morning was completed with a simple, but very nice, lunch at one of the more authentic (little bit off the road) small restaurants. The afternoon clarified why Bali is so beautifully green: down pour all through the afternoon and evening.

Time for afternoon thee.

April 3rd - Leaving Ubud

A sad moment, seeing goodbye to Kajane. This little 'Special Lodging' may be the best value for money in the world. It for sure is Petra's favourite pace to go! One of the main reasons we returned to Bali, and they - again - didn't disappoint us a second.

To be continued ...........

Van Kajane Mua - Ubud 2010

Tanzania 'Ultimate African wilderness'

Looking back on how much we liked watching the animals in India, and thinking back of Kenia, we couldn't stop dreaming of going back to Africa. After a long search we found below trip proposal (with Untamed Wildlife Safaris).


"The Dreaming will be a reality. We have booked!"

Tanzania is known for the famous Mount Kilimanjaro and Serengeti game parks and the Ngorongoro Crater. But Tanzania has much more! High mountains with unique vegetation zones, vast savannah's with large numbers of wild animals, colorful tribal culture with a fascinating and vast sandy beaches bordered by palm trees. Few other African countries see such a wide variety of attractions, a unique combination for culture and nature lovers.

Ruaha National Park.
Ruaha N.P. is a unique piece of Africa, rugged and unspoilt, situated between the rivers Njombe and Ruaha. Flora and fauna of Eastern and Southern Africa meet here, resulting in spectacular scenery and exceptional wildlife species. The park is powered by the Ruaha River, which winds its way between jagged rock formations, forests and savannah landscapes with acacia and baobab trees. This lifeline exerts great attraction to all kinds of game.

Selous Game Reserve
In southern Tanzania is the Selous Game Reserve, the largest game reserve in Africa. This is Africa at its wildest! The reserve was declared a world heritage. Countless elephants and predators are located along the banks of the Rufiji River, which teems with hippos and crocodiles. The trees along the river seem to be alive due to the many birds. Selous G.R. is one of the few parks in Africa where boat trips can be made, an absolute experience when you move up stream along bathing elephants, stared at by dozens of hippos.



The coast near Dar es Salaam
North and south of the capital Dar es Salaam are beautiful sandy beaches, surrounded by palm trees on an azure ocean. An ideal setting for an unforgettable safari to be closed with a few relaxing days at sea.



Travel Program

Day 1 Arrival in Tanzania - Dar es Salaam - Palm Beach Hotel or similar
Day 2 Flight to Selous N.R. - Lake Manze Tented Camp
Day 3 Selous N.R. - Lake Manze Tented Camp
Day 4 Selous N.R. - Lake Manze Tented Camp
Day 5 Flight to Ruaha NP - Mdonya Old River Camp
Day 6 Ruaha N.P. - Mdonya Old River Camp
Day 7 Ruaha N.P. - Mdonya Old River Camp
Day 8 Flight to Dar es Salaam - Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 9 Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 10 Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 11 Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 12 Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 13 Transfer to the airport of Dar es Salaam - flight to Europe
The end of a fantastic journey through the south of Tanzania!



Detailed Travel Program

Day 1 Arrival Tanzania - Dar es Salaam

Today you fly to Tanzania. After arriving at the airport in Dar es Salaam you are welcomed by our local representative and accompanied to your hotel in Dar es Salaam.
Overnight: Palm Beach Hotel or similar based on bed and breakfast

Day 2 to 4 flight to Selous Game Reserve
You will be brought to the airport for your domestic flight to Selous Game Reserve.
The Selous Game Reserve covers an area of over four times the Serengeti and is nearly twice as large as the Netherlands. Its particularly unspoilt beauty and grandeur will remain in your memories. 3 days, you have the time to discover the secrets of Selous GR. From your accommodation you go on safari, on foot, by boat and by open landrover.
The park has large numbers of live elephants, hippos, lions and leopards. It is one of the last wild areas in Africa, together with the Okavango Delta and Kruger NP, which (long term) have viable populations of wild dogs. Cheetahs are also in the park, but are less common.
The Rufiji River is very rich in hippos and crocodiles. Groups of 50-100 hippos are no exception. Due to the high density of crocodiles animals are very cautious when they come to drink at the River. Nevertheless, especially in the dry season the Rufiji River attracts many animals. You make a good chance to see giraffe, eland antelope and elephant along the shore. If you're lucky, you will see lions and leopards in the morning along the sandy banks of the River.
Selous Game Reserve is also a bird paradise. There are about 370 different species of birds counted in the park. African eagles are a common sight. The beautifully colored bee-eaters, scavengers, and kingfishers you'll encounter throughout the park. If you're lucky, you'll see on a night drive the Pel's Fishing-owl (a large eagle owl).
Nights: Lake Manze Tented Camp on full board, 2 game activities per day, including walking safaris and boat trip

Lake Manze Tented Camp
The camp is located in the Selous Game Reserve, the largest game reserve in Africa and is situated on the shores of Lake Manze. During the one hour transit to the camp which can be reached from Siwandu airstrip, one is introduced to the beautiful plains of Selous and its assorted birds and wildlife. The Lake Manze area is one of the richest for game in the entire Selous, both in the dry and wet seasons.



Day 5 Flight to Ruaha N.P.After breakfast you will be brought to the airstrip and fly to Ruaha National Park. On the way to your accommodation you can make a game drive. Ruaha N.P. is a unique piece of Africa, rugged and unspoilt, situated between the rivers Njombe and Ruaha. It is a very special park with spectacular landscapes. Ruaha is located in an ecological transition zone, which is home to flora and fauna of both eastern and southern Africa. Therefore there is a huge variety of species of animals and plants. Compared to the Serengeti in Ruaha 1600 species, whereas in the Serengeti example, only 600 species are distinguished.
Overnight: Old River Mdonya full board and 2 game drives per day



Mdonya Old River
A small but great Adventure Camp , this is one of the newest and perhaps most exciting bush destinations in Tanzania. With just 11 tents, Mdonya Old River is a small camp offering a personal service tailor-made to clients' needs. And its in the best place to be - where the animals are! The tents are spread out over a large area with many shade trees.



Day 7 to 8 Ruaha N.P.
Two full days of safari in Ruaha. Lunch is taken picnic or when you return for lunch in the lodge, followed by a short siesta. The park is powered by the Ruaha River, which winds its way between jagged rock formations, forests and savannah landscapes with acacia and baobab trees. This lifeline exerts great attraction to all kinds of game. Regularly, large herds of elephant and buffalo can be seen. The rivers accommodate hundreds of crocodiles and hippos.
Nights: Old River Mdonya full board and 2 game drives per day



Day 9-12 flight to Dar es Salaam - Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon

You fly back to Dar es Salaam and to your accommodation on the beach. Here you can relax the next 5 nights.
Bagamoyo, with beautiful, tranquil beaches north of Dar es Salaam. It is a small town where the Arab and German colonial influences still clearly can be observed. Bagamoyo means "here I put my heart", which indicates the many slaves from the in lands here left the African continent. Today, many traditional dhow boats are made here. In Bagamoyo Kaole you can visit ruins, snorkel or enjoy the sea and the local fishermen on their return with fresh catch. You will stay 5 nights at an island off the coast at Bagamoyo, where you can relax the last few days and enjoy all the impressions of the trip.



Lazy Lagoon
This idyllic exclusive island is 2km off the shore of main land Tanzania opposite the historical town of Bagamoyo, north of Dar es Salaam. A sand spit protected by a coral reef, the island is inaccessible by land at all times, thus maintaining its exclusivity to visitors to Lazy Lagoon. The coral reef surrounding the island offers a great opportunity for snorkeling off the beach.
Being an island, Lazy Lagoon is quite unique with sea swimming possible at all tides. The island has an interesting ecosystem, with many small mammals such as bush babies, (Galagoes) suni antelope and bush pig, plus birds and butterflies. Low tide washes up a plethora of exotically coloured star fish, sea urchins and crabs. All of these share their habitats with natural mangrove forest. Guests are free to wander along the 9km island – although no one has yet reached the end!
The 12 Century Kaole ruins remaining from the Arab Shirazi era with the oldest mosque on the mainland lies only 2kms across the ocean from Lazy Lagoon. The settlement went into decline two hundred years later following the disruption of Arab trading routes by the Portuguese.
Following the decline of the nearby Kaole settlement Bagamoyo grew out of the slave and ivory trade. Its was also referred to as the “gateway to the dark continent“ by explorers including Livingstone, Burton, Speke, Stanley, Grant and others who used Bagamoyo to launch their expeditions to find the source of the Nile. Livingstone’s sundried body was later carried by his two faithful servants 1600km back to Bagamoyo. Later Bagamoyo became the Capital of German East Africa.
Accommodation is in 12 large airy natural mkuti beach bandas only yards from the Indian Ocean. From the sundowner lounge above the bar, visitors can watch the sunrise over Zanzibar and set over the palm trees of Bagamoyo and feel the Swahili atmosphere as they follow the flotilla of hundreds of local fishing boats tack around the island to get from their villages on the mainland to their fishing grounds.



Individual beach cottages with en suite bathroom – shower, basin, toilet. Towels and beach towels provided. All rooms have full beach frontage, with verandah, hammock and deck chairs. The Lounge, bar, dining area is at tip of the island with views east and west. Swimming pool is available as well.
240V electricity is provided by generator for lighting and recharging of batteries. There is mobile phone reception on the island for some networks. The rooms are shady and well ventilated, but there is no air conditioning. Accommodation rates are full board including 3 meals, tea, coffee and laundry. Not included are bar drinks.

Day 13 Transfer to the airport of Dar es Salaam - flight to Europe
In time for your return flight to Europe, you will be transferred to the airport of Dar es Salaam.

The end of a fantastic journey through the south of Tanzania!