We fly via 2 air strips in Selous to Dar Es Salaam and from there we take another plane to Mafia Island. In no time we arrive at Butiama Beach. Yes, this is going to be a relaxed 2nd part of our holiday. Super! Cheese & bacon beefburger with french fries and a coke for lunch. Jummy.
Lala Day - February 9th
Before we arrived we already decided to have a relaxing day today. It will therefore be a "Lala Day". We start the day with a refreshing dive in the pool, just before breakfast. A slow walk along the beach. Seeing the Dhow's pass by on the sun beds at the beach. Slowly .. slowly ... slowly ..... soo wonderfull.
Whale Shark - February 10th
Today we are going to look for the Whale Shark - the biggest fish on the planet. The 3 Indian kids from Dar/Kenia (?) are joining us. Before we go we are told there are 61 (!) different animals identified here. The 1st boat we see is the "tag" boat from the American Research Team. We sail a little further and see that next to us another 3 boats are "hunting" for the Whale Sharks. They are already "dressed up" (fins and mask on) for the action on the side of the boat .... but, where are they then? It takes quite some time before we find them. But once we do the party starts! We can snorkel with one after the other .. 6 in total we see. 3 hours after we depart we are - tired and fulfilled - back at Butiama for lunch.
Redo yesterday - February 11th
Yesterday was too much fun, so during dinner we tell Moez we want to go again. Another thing is that Moez told us he had 21 divers ... maybe too many to have a nice diving day. This time we were accompanied by Italians and Germans. The Whale Sharks were more difficult to see than yesterday, as there seemed to be more plankton (green pee soup). The where swimming quicker. And dove more often into the deep. Nevertheless it was a lot of fun. Snorkling with Whale Sharks is simply fantastic! During dinner we were offered a private table at the beach and the food was - again - delicious!
Chole Bay - February 12th
The plan is to make 2 dives today. At 09:15 we depart per Land Rover to the other side of the island. It takes close to 30 minutes to get at the Dive Shop. We are welcomed by Daniel. Moez is also there. After we had fitted our gear, and waited at the restaurant next door for about 15 minutes, we head for our boat. Moez is our guide - an nice surprise - and only other diver - a Romanian girl - accompanies us on our Dhow*. The 1st dive is okay. We see many nice things and lots of fish. Unfortunately the viz was quite bad. Quite some sediment and also lots of plankton. Moez explains that with incoming tide the viz in the bay is very good. Today the incoming tide is too late to wait for. After enjoying our lunch on the Dhow we head for the 2nd dive site of the day. This one is outside the bay (Chole Bay that is). While sailing there we can see the water clearing up. Underwater the difference in viz is quite big. This is goood! A big Napoleon Wrasse says high while we cruise a beautiful reef. No wind on the way back, so the sails stay down ... . And it gets quite hot on the Dhow. // * So 21 divers, doesn't mean 21 divers on a boat. It just means more boats. Good to know for a next time! //
44 - February 13th
At the moment I wake up I remember: "it's my birthday". My 44th one. Petra also remembers and congratulates me before opening her eyes even :-). Birthdays is not really my thing, but it's nice getting all the best wishes sms'. Before breakfast we head for the pool for a nice refreshing swim. At breakfast Maura - with her little boy on her arm - comes to our table to wish me a nice birthday. Back in the room we try to call my dad. It's his birthday as well. At first we don't succeed, but after selecting the 'better' provider we get through to The Netherlands. The connection is bad, but I am sure he appreciated it a lot. From there we fill the day with a long stroll along the beach (it's spring tide, so during low tide the beach is really wide!). A delicious lunch at our room. And relaxing massage at the small Spa - on Butiama's Beach. // Maura finds us during the day to confirm we can keep our room until we leave this Friday, no need to clear it earlier. Great! // At night a private table is reserved for us at the beach. Luckily the wind had died down. During the afternoon one was sandblasted sitting here. The bottle of White we ordered is on the house (what a nice gesture). The food, shrimp cocktail for starters, squid for mains and crême brulée for desert is so good. The food is just getting better and better. What a wonderful day!
Valentines Day - February 14th
It's still early when we wake up. We both have dreamed a lot. Was it last nights wine? The wind? After a 'jummy' breakfast we pack our snorkel gear to go for our 3dr Whale Shark Snorkel Safari! This time we are accompanied by 2 Italian couples (from outside Butiama Beach) and an Austrian couple (staying with us at Butiama Beach). The Austrian couple was already traveling a month through Africa. They had been at Bwindi NP in Uganda. Hard work, 6 hours walk through dens rain forest under growth along steep mountains at 40°C and high humidity following the ranger who cuts the path with a manchetta. But once they saw the Mountain Gorilla's it all had been worth it. The snorkel trip was account worth the swimming. The Whale Sharks were found pretty quick this time by our snorkeling guide (we had the "Olympic Champion again .... he could keep up with the Whale Sharks while snorkeling!). The viz was quite improved to last time. Man what a beauties they are and what fun it is snorkeling with them. Pity the camera fogged up ... .One more time we jumped in to say goodbye to the last Whale Shark of our holiday.
The final morning - February 15th
We start the morning with half an hour swim in the pool. There was quite some wind last night, so the pool water had cooled down quite a bit. The sky is overcast, so no sun heat either. After a long, delicious and rich breakfast we have a relaxing morning. We snooze a bit on the sunbeds. The sun still didn't break through, so little chances for a sunburn. Our last lunch (same as the 1st day) was again really good. We pack the final items, have a shower and than it is time to leave this beautiful place.
Hmmm ... the bill is a lot less than expected. After checking we see some items are missed. We decide to be honest about it and tell Maura. "The 3rd Whale Shark Safari was a birthday present". Very very kind ... but than we still miss 2 spa treatments on the bill (?). Maura corrects the bill. Petra pays. We arrive quite early at the "airport" The woman at security looks through Petra's stuff for cigarettes. As she doesn't smoke she offers her some mints. We also run into the Romanian girl again. The dive the next day - same site - wasn't that good. Way too much current. They had been moving far too fast to really see the fish. On the plus side, they sailed back. After a short flight with a Chessna C404 we arrive at Dar. Hmmm .. nobody waiting for us?! I ask the guy from Leopard Tours whether the had seen someone from Hippo Tours. No. One of them is so kind to call Hippo Tours "No transfer pre-booked for Mr de Bakker". Okay, thanks. So get a cab to bring us to the international side of the airport ($7). Despite it being still very early, we decide to pass security. Maybe not the best of choices as there is nothing there and Swiss isn't starting to check in for a long time. // When we return to Tanzania next time we really have to make better arrangements for this final part. Especially when we are flying KLM who leaves even 2 hrs later at 24:00 //
Home - February 16th
The trip back went very smooth. Even the connection in Zürich was flawless and we had plenty of time. At 10:20 we are already home.
Our holiday starts today in a special way. To avoid missing our connecting flight in Zürich, we have decided to have stop over, and spent the night at Elly's, Petra's sister who lives nearby. The connection only had 1:10 hour in between and there is only one flight a day to Dar Es Salaam. It was a good choice and we had a very nice family evening!
To Tanzania - February 2nd
In the morning Elly brings us to Kloten, the International Airport of Zürich. The Dutch (!) ground stewardess checks and confirms our luggage is already on board the plane. As planned, and without any delay, we fly, with a short stop-over in Nairobi, from Zürich to Dar Es Salaam. After purchasing the visa ($50 pp) we can pass immigration. The luggage arrives shortly after. Outside Samuel is already waiting for us to take us to the Slipway Hotel. It's too late to have dinner (~11:00 at night), so we decide to go to sleep.
Selous Impala - February 3rd
At 5:45 the alarm wakes us up. A quick shower, grab all our stuff and off we are. It's 06:30, so breakfast isn't prepared yet. We grab some bits that are available and head for the domestic side of the airport. We arrive at 07:00. Why soo early? The plane is scheduled to leave at 08:30 only?! Due to the late arrival of an international flight, carrying some passengers booked on our plane, we leave even later: 09:15. On the landing strip in Selous Game Reserve our guide for the week - Gerard - is already waiting for us. A 1.5 hours Game Drive takes us to the Camp. Baboons, Impala, Antelope and Giraffe have been spotted before we arrive.
We are welcomed by Andrea, after which we are taken to our tent: #7, the 'family tent' (2 tents on one platform). Our neighboring tent is empty, hopefully it will stay empty. We have a splendid view on a bend in the river. Buffalo's on the riverbed. Black Faced Vervet Monkeys in the trees around us ... and on our veranda. Woodpeckers everywhere. Etc etc.
Hyena and Elephant - February 4th
The 1st full day of Game Driving has started. Fairly quickly we see the usual suspects. Curious Giraffe, grazing Impala and many Birds. We spend a lot of time looking for Lions, but aren't to be found yet. Gerard heard the laughing a while ago, and now we found them: 4 Spotted Hyena's in the scrubs next to the road in a cooling mud pool. The Bush Breakfast was delicious, with a great view on the lake/river. The Elephant tracks Gerard showed several times, but what about the animals making them? We follow the tracks, and the path gets more and more muddy. Too muddy actually. We try another route. Yes!! 17 Elephants. Including a 2-3 weeks old baby. Gerard pushes the Land Rover further and further in the mud so we can see them better. They are across a small pool and are either being lazy (lying down!) or playing in the water (the baby). What a perfect picture. Hmmm. I wonder how we will get out of this mud now? Very simply, just push the Land Rover forward, through the bush! Not easy, but it works. On our way back Petra notice a Jeep standing still and an Hyena with something in its mouth. Yep. It's caught an Impala. A very nice morning. Time for lunch.
Hunting for Lions! Gerard races from spot to spot. Talks to all Jeeps we encounter ('all' ... we encounter 3 all that afternoon). They have heard Lions at the neighboring Camp last night, so they must be close. Finally we find them. A mom and 3 brothers and a sister. They are part of a local pride that is not often seen. Just when we want to return to the Camp, they get up and start walking. We follow them slowly through the bush. What a day! // Gerard explains many many things about the Lions, including the fact that the local pride at Impala has very small cubs .... and hence hides well. // // "Gerard?" "What are those black faced monkeys called?" "That is exactly what they are called .. Black Faced [Vervet] Monkeys". //
Walking Safari - February 5th
Barbara explained it upfront, to avoid disappointment: "If you are lucky you may see something, but a Walking Safari is all about small stuff that you normally don't see when you are in a Jeep". After some sculls, tracks and poo, we hear something creacking. Oh boy, 4 Giraffe in front of us. Surrounded by a bunch of Impala (small stuff .. right). A little further, bending over some Buffalo droppings Petra all of a sudden says: "Elephants!!". The Ranger (who accompanied us) arms his riffle and moves in front of us. Gerard directs us backwards, away into the bush - out of the wind. Who expected this. 5 Big Elephants! We continue the walking safari and see more Giraffe and Antelope. Even a few Warthogs. Wow. "You are soo lucky" Gerard says. And he is very right about that! It's like walking through a Fairy Tale. Another brilliant Bush Breakfast is waiting for us. We continue the morning with a Boat Safari. We see 4 Buffalo's (bachelors), Elephants crossing the river and of course Crocodiles and a few King Fishers. When we arrive at Bird Island we see several kinds of Herons. Open Beak Storks. And Darts (kind of Cormorant). On the way back again a crossing group of Elephants. Man, doesn't it stop! It is getting very hot in the boat (it's the hottest time of the year), hope not to get a sunburn. Back at the Camp: Shower and Lunch. It's noon.
Hunting for Leopard! Jack (the "he" form the English couple that joined us on the Jeep) goes fishing, so it is just the 3 of us. Everybody heads out to look for elusive Leopard. "Exiting news" Gerard says, "The dogs have been spotted!" .. "It's quite far". No problem. Step on it! En route we see the same Lions again (man, what is mom skinny). And we see Zebra?! We thought they weren't around this time of the year in this part of the park. Yesterday we were at this same place and didn't see any?! Another day is another day it seems. Finally. The African Painted Dogs! "Everybody" is here. Even the Camp Manager Barbara. As well as Lake Manze (as far away as our Camp in opposite direction). 4 - 5 Jeeps in total. What a pleasant surprise. And are they gorgeous! We are soo lucky to see them again :-) On our way back Gerard sees a male Hippo out of the water (they graze outside of the water during the night). He spots us and opens his big mouth, showing his big tooth/tasks! And charges! Man ... very exiting (screaming girls on the Jeep). No Leopard .. but what a fantastic day!
Lake Manze - February 6th
Gerard planned to head in the direction of Lake Manze today to show us a different landscape. Looking left and right off the road we drive Manze direction. All of a sudden an Elephant crosses in front of us, loud trumpeting. "Gerard's favorite animal" so we we try to get a little closer to the herd. Gerard keeps the Jeep out of the wind so we can get close. They are in dens bushes. Incredible how such a huge animal can disappear and appear in and out of it! Once at Lake Manze we find 3 Lions. Big lads. Three brothers with obviously a full belly. We have our bush breakfast not to far away from the Lions, where Gerard shows us a little Green Snake. On our way back we see quite a lot of Vultures. From where they are we think they have been finishing the kill of Wild Dogs we saw yesterday. A little further we notice a few (3) Jeeps. We coming close we see they are watching some Lions. Four brothers and a Lady this time. So pretty to look at :-) Before we move on we "push start" another Jeep with ours. Not the best spot to have you car break down, at an arms lenght of 5 Lions! After snapping a few pics of the many Giraffe we see, we are back in the Camp for lunch.
Hunting for Leopard, part II! We are going to give it another try to spot the "Elusive one". Gerard gives it his best, but no Leopard. We do however see a group of beautiful Black and White Colobus Monkeys. They are very beautiful and quite rare. So we are lucky to see them.
Back at the Camp the path to our tent is blocked by the "local Hippo" Andrea. Two Masai and a few pebbles take care of that 'problem'.
Elephants - February 7th
Today we start slowly. Jack and Zoe left yesterday, so nobody is waiting for us. .... Huh? The front row of the Land Rover is already taken? It's the elderly English couple that just arrived from Ruaha NP (Kwihala Lodge, 2 days of rain and long grass hiding the animals in Ruaha). Gerard takes a strange turn. Where is he going? And than, we are in the middle of a herd of 30 Elephants! Despite having babies they are very relaxed and stroll just past our Jeep. Man!
After our last delicious bush breakfast at the lake side we hear "Leopard" on the radio. Let see what that's all about. The Leopard has been seen for 2 sec and has moved on .. . Or has hided well. Another 50 meters further we bump into the next herd of Elephants. It is so nice to see them, again and again. Time to head back to the Camp. The Leopard can wait for this afternoon .... or a next time.
One more try! Gerard has been informed that a Leopard has been spotted close to Manze. It's an hour to get there and we only have from 16:00 to 19:00 this last afternoon. But, of course, we giver it a go. Gerard seems even more enthusiast than us and drives, as fast as he is allowed with guests on board, to the spot. The radio tells us Camp Manager Barbara is going there as well ... little later she overtakes us (man, they are going fast on the dirt road!). It doesn't take too much time to find the Leopard's kill, a male Impala. We wait for more than an hour and constantly hear the alarm calls of the birds around us. Gerard is sure the Leopard is here ... but we can't see her/him. We chase another Jeep away, pretending we are watching birds, in the hope the shy animal will show. We stretch it another 15 minutes .. but no, the Leopard doesn't appear. Gerard is even more disappointed than us .. it's been a while they spotted the Leopard. We had a fantastic Safari and will for sure return! Let's hope Gerard can start his week off tomorrow so he can see his daughter Yvonne, 10 months old only.
Sad Day - February 8th
The day starts wonderfull, despite it is a sad day as we are leaving this wonderfull Selous Game Reserve today. Packing, the last breakfast and the bill (no shock at all!). The tip for the staff dropped in the Tip Box and off we go to the air strip. The trip there is per boat, a nice twist. When we arrive I notice I still have the envelope with the tip of our waiter (Peter) in my pocket. I hand it over to Moshi, who accompanied us, and ask him to give it to Peter. The Chessna arrives and off we go ... to Butiama Beach on Mafia Island.
