Sunday, November 22, 2015

Raja Ampat - Wobbegongs & Mantas


[2 days earlier] "Hmmm ... double booking?", and the original one only gives error notifications?! The new one is only one way, and stops at Makasar?! The chat with KLM didn't help a lot: "this is how your travel agent arranged it, you better contact them". According Natalie, from Diving Holidays, our travel agent, all was going to be okay. She had called Garuda ... 
Much later that day we could finally check in on our original booking/itinery. Pfew.

November 20th - Double Booking

Smooth drive to the airport, no traffic. 

At the KLM checkin desk: "No, I can only see you going upto Ujung [Makasar] and can only check in your lugguage so far". What!?. "Garuda is in terminal 3. Not sure where exaclty but you can ask there". @$%$% aagghh.

"O?" "Now I can see the 3rd flight too". .... what a pleasant surprise, pfew. All lugguage checked in and labelled for Sorong.

To the lounge, flights in 2 hours already.

Amsterdam → Singapore → Jakarta. At Jakarta Airport we need to re-check-in our luggage for the domestic flight [luckily some curious ground staff asked us what company we were flying and to where, advising us to do so]. The Visa On Arrival was also quickly arranged. Two more flights to go: Jakarta → Ujung [Makasar] → Sorong.

November 22nd - Papua Explorers

Arrival at Sorong. No need to wait for the luggage. Also Jamal from Papua Explorers is already there. We're put in a car to the Marina Hotel, where we need to wait for the boat trip to the resort @ 11:30 [so 5 hours later → at that moment we think that's because we have a "free" transfer and hence need to join the Supply Boat. Later on we understand that even a Private Transfer wouldn't be leaving much earlier].

Little after us Magnus and Una from Sweden, and Gary and Barb from Canada arrive. We all patiently wait for the 5 hours in the hotel, and the 2.5 hours on the boat to pass. A pod of Spinner Dolphins is saying welcome to Raja Ampat on route. Very nice.



The welcoming sounds of music and singing we can here from quite a distance, getting at the resort. [very nice, but no time to enjoy. TOILET NOW!]



Lynn (Australia) is taking care of the arrival briefing, after which lunch is served. Dive Shop briefing at 17:30: Unpack. Put our dive gear outside. Shower. Already time for the briefing. Arnoud (Arno) from France (± Nice) does the briefing. Dinner.



It's getting dark and I feel I am getting sleepy and tired [not a surprise after a 40hrs trip and still standing all day]. At eight o'clock we're done and go to bed, to only wake up at 4. Yes, very early, but still 8 hours of sleep. An hour later we go to the jetty to enjoy the sunrise. It's gorgeous. 


November 23rd - Slow Start

Breakfast with Sweden, Canada, Lynn and Arno. We also have a chat with the other Canadians at the Resort (familie Brouwers ... and they do speak Dutch, we need to watch it ;-)). The rest of the day is for relaxing, taking pictures and ... already time for lunch.

In the afternoon I go into the water to do some snorkling at the house reef. It's nice, but not "out of this world" as one is told when going to Raja Ampat. No need to find Nemo, they were everywhere. Finally the jellyfish (many of them) drive me out of the water.



"Did you see the Dophine?" "Did you hear it?" "It was 2 meters behind you ... we kept calling you". Me again .. missed the Dolphine ... 

Dinner: Gado Gado, saté, ... jummy.

November 24th - Ill

Petra didn't feel well getting up. Her throat was hurting, snotty and a bit feverish. At breakfast it's just Una, Magnus doesn't show up [Belly something ..]. Gary and Barb are at the table. Petra wants to give it a try anyway.

In the middle of the briefing Gary pops-up: "Barb isn't too well, so we will not join today". So, just the three of us. Guide is Hakim. Arno remembered he had to fly to Singapore tomorrow, so better no diving today.

Petra had some issues clearing her ears the 1st dive.

Jos: 61 [min] / 27.1 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 25.0 [m]

After a nice safety stop on the jetty of the local village (where we see a Walking Shark) we start our 2nd dive. This time some nice current, so we can watch the big barracuda's, hanging on our reef hook.




Jos: 60 [min] / 24.7 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 23.2 [m]

During lunch Una tells us Magnus is still not feeling well and she will stay with him. Petra already told me this morning she will only do 2 dives today. So the couple from Austria, Wilfried and Helga [Maldives junkies, Vilamendhoo, Filitheyo, numerous liveaboards, etc.] will be my buddy's for the afternoon dive. Gary joins to snorkel.

It is not a brilliant dive. Little current. Not much sun. Luckily my new Dive Torch works fine.



November 25th - Empty House

What a postivity. Those crazy Canadians (actually from Brabant, The Netherlands .. some time ago). Laughing and yelling another 3 rounds with the speed boat before they finally say goodbye and head for Sorrong. With them some others left, leaving only eight of us at the resort. That's it.



Our neighbours, Gary and Barb from Canada. Such a lovely and possitive couple. 71 but still thinking about getting certified to dive. Although keep on snorkeling is fine as well. Winfried and Helga from Austria on the otherhand seem less possitive. But when it comes to diving ... they are fanatics! Winfried learned diving when he was 48, that's 20 years ago, and has logged about 2000(!) dives since. All warm water dives. Helga got certified in 2002 and logged an unbelievable 1400 dives since. I hoop I will be as fit and adventures as them when I am 70 years old. Half of that will do, as I can't keep up with them already.




Yesterday the signs were already there. Music and singing, as the Canadians left today, but Petra didn't want to stay. Not feeling well. I am also doubting my fitness, and decide to stay with her for a "No Divinge Day". I know what happens if I push it: I will regret it later on. So this is the better choice.

Good news from Hakim: They fixed Petra's regulater .... they replaced the hoose ... for free. Wow!

November 26th - Diving Again

Mixed feelings today. The diving is not what I expected it to be. The current made the dives messy and the plankton 'killed' the visibility. The 3rd dive, Cape Kri, was the worst. Hanging for 50 min's in the current with nothing interesting to see. On the other hand, I saw my 1st Wobbegong. And another one on the 2nd dive. They are sooo beautiful. With a Sepia, an Eagle Ray, a Blacktip and a Wobbegong, the 2nd was memorable one anyway.

Jos: 53 [min] / 16.5 [m] | Petra: 53 [min] / 15.5 [m]
Jos: 64 [min] / 22.7 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 22.0 [m]
Jos: 57 [min] / 13.1 [m] | Petra: 57 [min] / 11.3 [m]


After the 3rd dive we explained to Hakim what happened. Tomorrow we'll go for some easier dives. And that's a better choice as Petra isn't top fit still and I am exhausted after a full day of diving.

November 27th - Manta Manta

And again we wake to the most beautiful sunrise ever [when you see those colorful Indonesian paintings .. they aren't exaggerated at all!]. O, what a beautiful place is this. Not to forget the bird alarm in the morning.



Today Manta Sandy and Arborek. As we don't spot mantas when passing Manta Sandy, we start at Arborek. When we see 2 mantas we jump in for a quick snorkel. Lovely. Arborek is a nice dive. Due to the current a bit of work to do. 

Jos: 56 [min] / 20.7 [m] | Petra: 56 [min] / 18.9 [m]

Manta Sandy surpasses all our expectations. One full hour of manta show, 5 white and 2 black reef mantas.

Jos: 66 [min] / 16.5 [m] | Petra: 66 [min] / 16.2 [m]

The third dive, Hakim's favorite site, is also beautiful. A very nice diving day today!



Jos: 57 [min] / 20.4 [m] | Petra: skipped

November 28th - Three Average Dives

There was a lot of plankton today, so bad visibility. And that is always a pity. The 1st dive. Okay, a pygmy seahorse. The 2nd dive was a gorgeous wall. But since the light was coming from the wrong site, and since the island is like an overhang (hat), there was far too little light to enjoy the beauty to its full extent. The 3rd one was the same one as I did yesterday - at that time we did the top (flying over) and the viz was much better - when it was a lot nicer. Also the wobbegong was gone ... .

Jos: 66 [min] / 22.9 [m] | Petra: 66 [min] / 21.6 [m]
Jos: 61 [min] / 21.6 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 19.2 [m]
Jos: 66 [min] / 19.9 [m] | Petra: 65 [min] / 19.2 [m]


Gary and Barb went home this morning.

November 29th - Manta Manta ... Again

This morning we go for "Blue Magic". According Winfried the best dive site around and a chance for Oceanic Mantas. The season had started, so who knows?

Arriving at the site 2x good news. 1) just 2 other boats, and they are already in the water some time. 2) The mantas are here! We are dropped a little to far on the reef and need to work our way back a bit. Only 10 minutes in the dive Nando, our guide, sees a manta. We swim there to take a look. It's a gigantic oceanic manta. The next 50+ minutes it stays around, looking at us - checking us out. Just hanging on the reef it comes in so close ... like an eclipse, banning all the sunlight. What a dive!!

Jos: 72 [min] / 22.9 [m] | Petra: 71 [min] / 22.0 [m]


The 2nd dive, after our interval at Bat Island, was a nice dive with small stuff (except the Napoleon and Bumphead parrotfish ...). Mild current, so a lovely flight over the reef. 

Jos: 63 [min] / 22.0 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 22.0 [m]


We're back late and the new guests had arrived. 12 Russians and a few other nationalities. The resort is full again.

[we already miss Barb's ear-to-ear smile]

Winfried and Helga are not so happy. The drink prices have gone up 30% (new season start?), and that is a lot as the wine is already not cheap to start with in Indonesia. After the 3rd dive (they did Otdima again) they were smiling again. It had been a very nice dive they said.

I am going to skip the night dive I planned. Enough is enough. Let's call it a day .. 

November 30th - Washing Machine

Heavily clouded. No sun. The plan today is to do "Mike's Point" & "Cape Kri". During the 1st dive I am getting a bit chilled. Should have listened to Petra and wear my new 3mm body. During our safety stop, looking up, we see it started to rain. Getting out 'rain' seems an understatement, it's poring down. The boat is already filling up. Now were all cold. I quickly put on the 3mm body. We are heading for Yenbuba pier (we thought we would go back to the resort).



Jos: 60 [min] / 25.6 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 24.7 [m]

A chat with Una and Magnus, two cups of warm thee, and off we go for the 2nd dive. OMG, what a current! We reach the reef, but the current is from the wrong side (did we jump at the wrong side of the split? **). We all look at eachother, hanging at the reef in the strong current, and decide to cancel the dive. We let go of the reef and the current flushes us away. We fly over the reef, and than get pushed off the reef into a down current. We drop 8-10 meters in no time. Bubbles going down in stead of up. Very scary. I inflate my BCD and try to swim up. Slowly we go up ... and than it's calm again. We start our safety stop, but we're pulled down again. Out! Out! Vernando took Petra by the hand the whole time. Very thankful for that as she was close to panicking.
On the surface, waiting for the boat, Vernando is right next to me. In seconds he drifts 10 meters away. Man, crazy currents here! Winfried, who didn't get blown of the reef, is already on the boat. Little later we also pick up Helga. Jerry also had to take her by the hand and got her out safely. They got pulled to another direction.
"Anybody for an afternoon dive?" "YES!"

(** Later Hakim explains that there are different current directions at different depths. Only having reached 9 meters we probably didn't reach the main/bottom current, but stayed in the top current .... with above consequences)

Jos:  9 [min] / 16.8 [m] | Petra:  9 [min] / 15.4 [m]


During lunch Winfried makes sure the drink prices will remain as was for them. We took a little nap. And than time for the 3rd dive. "You want an easy dive?" Arno asks. "Yes". "Okay, let's go for Manta Sandy!". A good choice. Lovely 1 hour with 7 - 8 Manta's that keep flying by to go to the cleaning station and back in line. One could say the light was from the wrong site, and the viz wasn't that good, but who cares with so many Manta's to look at.

Jos: 69 [min] / 15.9 [m] | Petra: 69 [min] / 15.9 [m]

In the evening Arno asks me to share my manta video's and pictures for his "Identification Log". He also had a lot of questions on what we had seen the passed days. How many boats at each site, etc. Yes, the Marine Biologist is serious about his passion. 



December 1st - Easy Dive Day

Some days don't have much to report, and this is one of them. A relaxed day with some easy dives. The current, as 'promised' during the briefing, isn't there. But we did see beautiful reefs, especially on the first 2 dives.

Jos: 62 [min] / 23.5 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 22.6 [m]
Jos: 61 [min] / 26.2 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 25.9 [m]

Curious which Bird Watching experience Una liked best. She had already done the morning one and is now going to do the afternoon one. Tomorrow Magnus and Una will leave. Pity. We enjoyed their company and conversation.




Jos: 61 [min] / 29.6 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 26.5 [m]

December 2nd - The Passage

A tour around the island today. We start with a dive at Citrus Ridge. Good viz and a fantastic reef.

The funniest thing happened there, but I only found out that night. I swam after a Wobbegong, filming it. On my return I saw a few Pilot Fish, and thought "poor guys, they lost their Wobby". When checking out the video in our room that night it was obvious they didn't loose their Wobby. It was lying in from of me, just centimeters away. Incredible camouflage as I didn't see it at all (and they are not tiny!).

We continue with a nice boat ride through the mangroves.

The Passage itself is a little bit of a fairground attraction. Nice to do once, but I wouldn't do it again.

Jos: 64 [min] / 25.9 [m] | Petra: 64 [min] / 24.4 [m]
Jos: 69 [min] / 14.1 [m] | Petra: 70 [min] / 14.0 [m]

Back at the resort we have a final check with Hakim. Unfortunately they didn't find the 5 pax total to join for Wayang (we couldn't understand people traveling all across the world and skip on this World Heritage site ... but we can't force them). Only Gaby, our neighbor from Germany, was okay to join. So Fam it will be then.

A lovely night dive on the House Reef, with Beto, completes the day.

Jos: 50 [min] / 16.8 [m] | Petra: skipped



December 3rd - Fam Islands

So not Wayang (and the dive sites on route), but Fam Islands. Germany (Gaby and Ralph, both traveling alone) and Austria (Winfried and Helga) join us on the boat. Our first dive is at Melissa's Garden. It is a gorgeous dive site with lots to see.



The plan was 1st dive, Fam Islands, lunch, followed by the 2nd dive. Arno decides lunch can wait. We first go to Fam and climb up the hill. Waw what a view! [one wonders how much better Wayang is... ] And immediately the 2nd dive: Anita's Garden. Again an incredibly beautiful reef. And the viz, super!



Jos: 69 [min] / 24.1 [m] | Petra: 69 [min] / 23.2 [m]
Jos: 63 [min] / 21.6 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 20.4 [m]



We have lunch at a local beach. The local Monitor Lizards are already waiting for us. Four show up (later a fith one joins) and they are not shy at all. A little bit too used to people for my liking as they get very close when charging for scraps being thrown.

A nice gift during our return: we spot 5 manta's feeding at the surface. We all - including the majority of the boat crew - jump in to snorkel. This never gets booring. 

December 4th - Red Bird of Paradise

4:25 is when the alarm beeps. We have planned to go bird watching and are supposed to meet Hakim at 4:50 at the restaurant. He is already waiting for us when we arrive. He wakes up Derek, who joins to watch us, and quickly arranges binoculars. After a short boat ride we arrive at the jetty of the neighboring village where bird man Nico is awaiting us.
We need to walk through the village and another 15 minutes or so through the jungle to reach the first bird spot. A kind of Cockatoos, but it's still quit dark so we can hardly see them. We can surely hear them. Now to the main attraction: Red Bird of Paradise. There is a kind of bench one can sit on and lean backwards to watch them far up in the tree. Very far up in the tree. The male birds start dancing for the (dull looking) females. Difficult to see with binoculars that are blurred (sea water entered?). That leaves the zoom on my compact camera as the only way to see them. The zoom is enough (20x optical plus 20x digital), but to keep them in the screen while they nervously jump up and down the branches, dancing, is difficult. Let alone keep them in focus. The later it gets the brighter it gets, the better we can see them.
The nearby thunder is getting loader and closing in. We need to start going, as the rain is starting. Nico asks if we want to wait, but we think we best move before it gets all wet and slippery. On our arrival in the village we are soaking wet. Despite of some problems a nice morning adventure we wouldn't have wanted to miss. Time for breakfast.



"Petra & Jos, where do you want to dive?" "Cape Kri?" "I'll be your personal guide" "Or do you want to go to Otdima?" Hakim tries to convince us to join him to go to Kri as, after two failed dives there, he wants to show why we should dive there and why it's so famous. Petra is doubting a long time, but finally she says: "Yes, let's go to Kri!".



The current on the reef is not much this time (too little?) and at the end we spot a nice Sepia - we hadn't seen one this trip yet, so a nice bonus. On our safety stop we also see some real Dories. Very good!

"Und Winfried?" "Zu viel Strömung auf Otdima. Wir sind irgendwo anders, auf die andere seite, gewezen. Saum Rif. Ach."

Jos: 67 [min] / 28.7 [m] | Petra: 67 [min] / 28.8 [m]

December 5th - Soto Ajam

Man, does time fly. We arrived at our final day already. A relax one. Some stroling on the beach. Drying our dive gear. Chatting with the dive guides (Fahmy and Vernando). A bit of sleep. Lunch: Yes, Soto Ajam - lekker!
We repeat the morning in the afternoon. Stamp the logbooks. O, I need to take my medication. I left it with them (needs to be in the fridge) almost 2 weeks ago. Arno gets it from the kitchen and I am pleasantly surprised to see it was still okay.
Time to pack. Tonight, dinner with dancing and music with the locals from the nearby village. Tomorrow wake-up at 6:00, we're leaving at 7:00.



December 6th - The Big Trip Home

Full boat to Sorong (Ralph, Gaby, Helga, Winfried and Darwin, Australia: Tracy, Allen, Matthiah and Brad). First stop at the hotel, and then to the airport. A quick checking, but only to Jakarta. We say goodbye to Darwin (they have planned an extra few days in Manadoo) and fly together with Ralph (he sits next to me) to Makasar.
At the transfer desk we ask if we can check in for Amsterdam. "Yes, no problem. We'll also re-label your luggage directly to Amsterdam, no need to re-check in Jakarta". Great, but I think we better check to make sure. To the lounge now and wait for a big 6 hours before our flight to Jakarta leaves.
In Jakarta we watched other peoples luggage passing by on the belt for a good 45 minutes. At that time all had been collected and ours didn't pass by, so it must have been checked through as they said in Makasar. Arriving in Amsterdam confirmed that. It was one of the first on the belt. Perfect. Which also describes this holiday very well: Perfect.


Ooh Solley Solley .... don't ask my why, but it had been in my head for almost 2 weeks.

It was a sad goodbye from Raja Ampat - as good memories always are.