Kuredu

Prologue

The story begins months and months earlier. We were supposed to go to Egypt, back to the InterContinental in Port Ghalib. Unfortunately the developments in Egypt made us decide to cancel. Alternatives: 9 hours to East or 9 hours to the West. As we already opted for Bonaire in February, we chose to go to the Maldives. We finally decided for Kuredu as we could find a good deal going there. It had been 8 years that we had been there.

September 26th - Arrival

The trip to Kuredu was quite tiresome, especially as I wasn't really fit when I left. Luckily all went quick and smooth. In no time  we are welcomed by the Kuredu's welcoming drums.

Jacuzzi Beach Villa #160, the last one before the long sandbank. Totally great! It all looks perfect.

The 1st lunch in the Sangu restaurant tasts really good (waiter = Minax). During the afternoon we get mail: an invitation for the Repeater Party in the early evening. After touring half the Island (yes, our room is located at its top spot!) and relaxing a bit more, we decide to took a look. The Tea House at the end of the pier is where it is at. A good cocktail, some delicious snacks and a tour on the local Live Aboard - The Monsoon.

We walk back over the beach to the restaurant to have dinner. Indian tonight. Very good, although we miss a curry.

Time flies ... the 1st day has already ended.

September 27th - Lazy Day

As we already agreed long time ago, the first full day will be a lazy day. In the morning we have a late breakfast. A bit of swimming in the lagoon. Check in at the ProDivers ".. since you have been here before you don't need to do a check dive .. " Jippie! The resort had left a welcome present in our room: a bottle of red wine and a fruit basket.

The rest of the day we slowly passed. We watched Russian couple having their Island Wedding. A cocktail. Dinner. A long walk ... and the lovely lazy day came to an end.

September 28th - House Reef

After a slow start of the day, we take the "taxi" to the dive shop. Putting our gear in the lockers and analyzing the tanks for this afternoons dive.

After lunch our 1st dive is on the program. We will dive the House Reef. Just the two of us. Just when I enter the water, I break the strap buckle of my fin. Shit, what now? Back at the dive shop they tell me they don't have a spare part .. but, without hesitation the guy at the dive shop counter borrows me his, brand new, fins (thanks Veit !!!).

The House Reef is a lot nicer than it was in my memory. Okay, visibility is not super, but we do see a lot of 'old friends'. The rest of the equipment is performing good, without issues.

Jos: 71 [min] / 24.5 [m] | Petra: 69 [min] / 23.6 [m]

After the dive we went to the local dive shop, to check for a new buckle. They only have a newer version, and the girls in the shop are not 100% sure it can work for my fins. We buy 2 T-shirts.

10 minutes later, at the bar, I decide to take my chances and simply buy the new buckle. Good decision, they fit perfectly.

Time to relax and have dinner. We have booked for a full day out tomorrow!

September 29th - Noonu Atoll

Wake up alarm at 5:50. Today we will go to Orimas Thila. That is located in the next Atoll, quite a boatride away - hence we need to get up early. The taxi at Sangu Reception is taking we to long to arrive, so we decide to go by foot.

It will be a relaxing day on the boat: 3 crew members, 4 fellow divers (Sebastian from Karlsruhe, Allen and a Swedish couple from Shanghai) and 2 guides (Reni and Marcel from Komandhoo), only. 

The dives are amazing. Many Grey Reef Sharks at Orimas Thila. Beautiful coral and clouds of glass fishes at X-Mas Tree Rock, so many it made big Stingrays disappear in front of your eyes. The last dive, Raa Fushi, was a lovely wall dive.

Orimas Thila:  Jos: 58 [min] / 24.7 [m] | Petra: 58 [min] / 22.6 [m]

X-Mas Tree Rock:  Jos: 62 [min] / 27.4 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 25.6 [m]

Raa Fushi:  Jos: 61 [min] / 24.4 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 22.0 [m]

Getting up at 5:50? Anytime .. for such a fantastic diving day!

// Nice to see how Seb was making small movies for his little nephew //

// Reni and Marcel are going back to Switzerland in a few days. As their 

replacement already arrived on Komandhoo, they completed their contract in Kuredu //

// Seb wanted to leave his email address so I could share my movie .. didn't happen //

// Swedish couple was moving back to Sweden after 2 yrs Hong Kong and 1 yr Shanghai

- starting a family //

September 30th - Round the Island

As this is a holiday we already agreed to, after the long and full day of diving yesterday, this would be a nice 'doing nothing' day. Well ... we did a little more than nothing, but not much.

After a long and big breakfast we rounded the Island. We stopped halfway at the O-Resort. The whole trip was close to 2 hours. Kuredu is beautiful Island, and improved to what we remembered from 8 years ago. The conclusion that room #160 is at the Islands top spot also still stands (lucky us).

After lunch I did a bit of snorkeling. Ending the afternoon around Happy Hour at the bar ... enjoying a Piña Colada.

Again, a lovely day.

October 1st - Full Day Manta

We hear and read, much to our surprise, that there had been spotted quite a few Manta Rays in the last days. We didn't expect to see Manta's this holiday (as the mail from ProDivers said: "not yet the season"). A bonus maybe?

After packing our gear and having had breakfast with "Sweden", we head for the boat. Elodie (Parisienne) and Greg (South Africa) are our guides for the day.

The plan: snorkel with Manta's at Fushivaru (expectations are that the current is too strong to dive the small Thila), 1st dive at Anemone City, 2nd dive at KFFC, snorkel again with the Manta's, followed by the 3rd and last dive. That was the plan.

As we arrived at Fushivaru Thila we found it without any current: we are going to DIVE! The hope was to find Manta's on the Thila's cleaning station. Finally, after waiting for 40 minutes .. the Manta's arrive! The Manta's didn't stay on the cleaning station, and after 57 min we were told - by the dive guides from the other boat that joined us- to end the dive.

Elodie didn't agree and signed us to stay ... "when we see Manta's we care about air, not about time" she told Greg when we were back on the boat. And air we had plenty! After waving the last Manta- and the huge Napoleon - goodbye (we saw 8 Manta's in total), we climbed on the boat after a 76 min dive.

Jos: 76 [min] / 14.6 [m] | 76 [min] / 14.3 [m]

After this dive the plan has to be abandoned. Anemone City, a deep dive, is not a wise choice after this shallow one. The guides pick a wall, so we can dive any depth.

My god, where is the boat going. And the waves. They are huge. In our 6 previous visits to the Maldives we haven't experienced anything close to such waves. Quite an adventure getting off and on the boat.

Jos: 63 [min] / 22.0 | Petra: 62 [min] / 19.2 [m]

After the dive we look for a more quite spot to have our lunch. It is still a little choppy, but it's okay.

Juvenile Manta's are often spotted in this area, so - in case we find them - we will snorkel with them. Unfortunately the juveniles don't show themselves this day. As compensation a small pod of dolphins swims along the boat when we move to the next and last dive: AAA Giri.

The dive spot is not that beautiful, but has a lots of fish. Unfortunately Petra doesn't feel too well and can't really enjoy the dive.

Jos: 61 [min] / 22.3 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 20.1 [m]

We had asked if we could do a Scooter dive (s we remember from Egypt it is lots of fun), and Elodie confirmed we could, but we decided on another plan. Tomorrow: Holiday. The day after tomorrow: back the the Noonu Atoll!

We ended the day with another lovely diner at the Sangu restaurant, followed by a movie from the ProDiver Team. Another great day came to an end.

October 2nd - Jumping

As planned, today will be a holiday. Sleep in late, a long breakfast. Some reading. Ooh .. time for lunch already?! Up and down to the dive shop to check next days planning. Slowly, but surely, the day passes by.

At Sun Set we try to make some "jumping" pictures. Not that easy with a point-and-shoot camera. The delay is almost every time too long, making us standing on the ground - in funny posses - already before it takes a picture. Finally we have a few shots that are worth keeping.

October 3rd - Grey Reef Shark TV

5:50 beep beep. Pfew, it's early. Grab our stuff and to the dive shop (walking). Our Guide of the day is Karola. Also Sven, the videographer, joins. On the boat mainly Germans (male) and a British couple.

After almost 2 hours we reach Orimas Thila. The visibility is good. The sharks are home ... but move to the other side of the Thila when we arrive. Some swimming against the current later we arrive there as well. Let the show begin!

For more than half an hour 8 Grey Reef Sharks keep cruising up and down the reef in front of us. This is SUPER! An Eagle Ray joins us to watch the show as well. Nice bonus.

Jos: 65 [min] / 22.3 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 21.0 [m]

After the dive we are chitchatting with Karola. Despite of her perfect German, she had never been to Germany. She is from Namibia. Sven, also fluent in German, happens to be from South Africa.

// The German guy next to me recognizes the "Aegir" bag we have. He dives their local pool in the Netherlands (Bosmolenplas) almost every weekend. His name is Klaus and his is from Mönchengladbach //

Second dive is again at X-Mas Tree Rock. This reef is how you imagine a perfect reef to look like. Beautiful coral and packed with fish. Next to Orimas Thila our main reason to return ... this reef is like flying in a dream!

Jos: 62 [min] / 29.3 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 26.8 [m]

Lunch and than the last dive of the day: Raa Fushi. The wall is again gorgeous, but it's a pity this is the 3rd dive. Earlier in the day, with higher and better light, this wall must be even better.

Jos: 60 [min] / 19.9 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 20.7 [m]

 Back at our room we find that the Sangu restaurant is booked out. The standard Kaomas it has to be than. It is very fine, even more choice, but tomorrow we are trying Sangu again. (much) Closer to our room and (much) more romantic.

Time to sleep, it has been a long day ... 

October 4th - X-Press

The "Classic" is on the program today: Kuredu X-press. Our boat picks up the 2-tanks (Klaus and Markus), as well as the single dive group (us). As the dive site is just of the island the single dive group is disembarked during the safety interval of the 2-tank group.

Before we arrived at Kuredu we had read reviews with quite a variety of comments about the X-Press. Ranging from "they are all gone" to "we have seen sharks". One hour and 5 Grey Reef Sharks later, we are sure: they are still around! Also the Eagle Rays still pass by.

Jos: 62 [min] / 23.6 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 21.7 [m]

Due to the outgoing (Atoll -> Sea) current, the visibility wasn't that great, but at least we have seen them!

The rest of the we take it slow ... ended with a lovely cocktail at the Sangu Bar: Shark Attack.

// Funny. We brought quite some books, but neither of us has read a letter.

Relaxing has priority over reading it seems //

October 5th - 2-Tank

After a 10 min walk over the white beach and good breakfast at Kaomas we head for the dive shop. "Tauchst du alein heute" says Klaus. Hmmm ... Petra is not on the list. A small hint to Karola, our guide for the day, and Petra can join.

The 1st dive site is The Peak, a nice site with, again, some Grey Reef Sharks.

Jos: 61 [min] / 30.0 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 28.4 [m]

// Where we were used to seeing only White Tip Reef Sharks in the more southern Ari Atoll, over here in the Lhavyani Atoll the vast majority of the sharks are Grey Reef Sharks // 

As the British Couple didn't see Manta's yet, we make a detour to enable them to snorkel with the Manta's. We see 3 Manta's.

Due to that detour the 2nd dive, Maa Giri, starts quite late ... due to which we are back on the island only just in time for lunch.

Jos: 62 [min] / 23.6 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 20.4 [m]

Cleaning and washing after lunch then. We ask again for a Scooter Dive (as the British Couple did that today at Peak and saw many many Eagle Rays and Sharks ... up close), but they didn't have a spare guide to join us tomorrow.

Okay. Than tomorrow will be a relaxing one-dive day then.

October 6th - Green Turtles

The changed the schedule for a change: relaxing in the morning and diving in the afternoon. Halfway through the morning I suddenly realize we forgot to book the Sangu Restaurant for today: "sorry sir, we are fully booked". Also the "O" Restaurant was booked out. Pity, but as we had planned to go to the video show at the dive shop we had to go the Koamas direction anyway.

After lunch we stroll over the beach towards the dive shop. The other "Classic", The Caves. is on the program today. 13 Divers on the boat, guide is Fabrice. The other guide, Yafees, dives with a smaller team as well. The dive is great, the viz is super and the dive site is much better and more beautiful than I remember it. The huge Green Turtles are still around, sleeping in the small caves in the wall. One after another they go up to the surface for a breath of air. It feel like I am in the middle of Turtle Airport.

Jos: 63 [min] / 21.6 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 20.5 [m]

In the evening, after the cocktail and dinner, we decide not to wait for the ProDivers video. We are tired. We'll see the next updates on YouTube (sorry Sven).

Another 2-Tank tomorrow. From the (lack off) notifications on the board it seems the Manta's are gone .. we'll see tomorrow.

October 7th - Napoleon

Ai. 15 Divers and only 1 guide. That's a full boat! We go (again) to Fushivaru Thila. Last chance for Manta. On arrival we see them at the surface, but that's no guarantee we see them during the dive.

Or .. . Yes. At the beginning of the dive we spot one. Petra spots a second Manta. From there we wait wait and wait on the cleaning station, but no more Manta. We do see the big Napoleon again (at least I think it is the same one). He lays side by side with Petra on the reef (almost arm in arm). A little later I position myself also next to him. I can see how the cleaner fish are doing their job. The Napoleon even opens his gills .. I can see right through him. And that so close by i could easily touch him .. if I wanted. I see the camera starts to fog up heavily.

Jos: 64 [min] / 13.7 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 13.4 [m]

Back on the boat I see the camera housing is quit wet inside! I try dry it a little while on the boat, but that doesn't really work nor help. Hence the 2nd dive will be without camera.

Due to the current we quickly loose the group. So nice, to dive just with the 2 of us. At the end of the dive we hear Yafees' shaker. He found a Nurse Shark on the reef. Nice end of the dive.

Jos: 62 [min] / 19.5 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 16.0 [m]

Back at the room the camera is in much worse condition than I thought. Probably it died .. .

October 8th - Last Diving Day

Last night the room boy brought us an envelope. O shit, I hope they didn't make a mistake in our check out date. No, it's a letter from ProDivers. The Scooter Dive for the afternoon wasn't possible. They rescheduled us to the 2-Tank boat and will bring the Scooters. If the current allows we will be able to use them.

Small panic in the morning: no beach towels. A quick ring to house keeping and a few minutes later our room boy pops up with fresh ones.

Our Scooter Guide is Darron, overall Guide is Veit. half way to the dive site some Manta's are spotted. Quickly grab the snorkel gear and in the water to enjoy a last few minutes with these gently giants. Arriving at the channel it doesn't look good. Darron, to be sure, makes a current check. But, no, the Scooter Dive is off. The current is in the wrong direction. No disaster, the dive is very very nice, and much different than a week ago.

Jos: 61 [min] / 26.5 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 24.1 [m]

We return to Kuredu as new couple isn't comfortable in their 5mm wetsuite (to buoyant - extra weight can't fix it?). They are offered a shorty.

"It's your last dive, any preference?" Hmmm, let's do X-Press again. Even though we don't see any Grey Reef Sharks this time, it was a good choice. For minutes an Eagle Ray hangs next to us on the reef. Viz is not good, as it is out again. Around the corner it clears up and the viz is stunning. The current picks us up and we fly over the reef. Napoleon after Napoleon passes by, at one point 3 together. It was a very nice dive .. pity it was the last one.

Jos: 62 [min] / 23.0 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 20.8 [m]

On the way back to the island a pod of at least 50 Spinner Dolphins escort us back. What a joy to watch.

// Strange?! i didn't miss my camera at all during the dive?! //

Later that afternoon, what was about to happen for days, really happened. We locked ourselves out of our room. Easily corrected by the friendly staff .. but stupid from us of course.

October 9th - Last Day in Paradise

Man .. time flies .. . The inevitable last day had arrived. Still some "Things To Do": 1) Book the Sangu Restaurant 2) Check the bill at the dive shop 3) Pay 4) Clear our locker and pick up our dive gear.

Task #1 is easy, it takes some time to get through to reception, but than it is completed .. successfully. After a long and good breakfast, and a coffee, we head for the dive shop. Task #2. The bill is impressive, but correct. Task #4 was not too much effort.

// When packing our gear we run into Veit. He had looked up the fish we saw at the safety stop yesterday, and both didn't recognize. The were Rainbow Runners, the fish we had for lunch every day on the boat during a full day trip. //

At the dive shop we ask to put on last weeks video. Also the footage from our trip to the Noonu Atoll is included. Petra seems to be the lead character in the video. Also nice to see myself under water. I decide to buy the video. As Sven has a day off he can't manage to burn a disk, but he'll send me a link through the mail so I can download it. 

Before lunch a lost puddle in the lagoon together. Lovely. After lunch and coffee it is time for Task #3 .... .

Back. A shower. To the Sangu Bar for my last Mojito of this holiday. Before dinner we quickly check our flight time for tomorrow: 5:40 .. oef that's early, but at least no stress at the International Airport, as we will arrive well in time.

As promised Nimax had prepared a beautiful decorated at the beach. The last dinner tasted, like all before, very very good.

Back at the room our room boy had also made an effort to make an impression. The whole bed was decorated with colorful flowers.

Another few hours of sleep, and than we have to leave Paradise behind .. 

*******************************

We felt bad, having had to cancel Egypt. And despite the good deal from Alltours (AI at HB price) we weren't 100% we were making the right decision going to Kuredu.

Retrospectively we couldn't have made a better choice! This holiday was really FANTASTIC!

The Maldives haven't seen the last of us .. 

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It's an expensive addiction .... but a beautiful one!
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