Saturday, February 11, 2012

Bonaire: Eagle Rays & More

February 11 - 23 KG!

After a big effort to get all clean to allow the painter to start tomorrow, and good night sleep, we were on our way to Schiphol. -13°C! Yes, it is still very cold. The whole drive (2.5hrs) it remains as cold, even at Schiphol it is still -12°C. But the snow, that completely stopped all traffic in this part of the Netherlands seemed to already have vanished.

Once at Schiphol, while checking in our luggage we had a not so nice surprise: luggage allowance rules had changed. Not the total weight of all lugage together, but the weight per item counted, making our prepaid additional weight allowance a little useless as our diving gear bag alone was at 28.8 kg .... 5 kg over weight. And additional paid beauty case was only 7kg. So weight wise we could easily bring all, but needed to redistribute the weight.

As repacking the bags we had wasn't an option as they were simply too small, and we couldn't find anything affordable as alternative in Schiphol, I decided to wear my BCD as coat, and passed through customs. After customs I found a cabin luggage trolley on sale that fitted all: problem solved.
[next time we should better prepare and read the small text on the website and booking forms!]

After the mandatory stop in Curaçao we finally landed on Bonaire. It's been a while so we doubted about the direction once, but actually drove straight to Deep Blue View. Esther is already waiting for us .... it feels good to be back.


February 12 - Kontiki

The first day will be a slow and quiet day. Relax a little, getting into the time zone and adjust to the climate. We wake up early, but stay in and sleep a little more until 7. Once at the breakfast table it doesn't take long before we meet the other guests: Esthers brother Han and his wife, Kelly and Ty from Minnesota and Laura and Roger from Ohio.

It was time to dig in to our bowl of fruit and yogurt and order the warm part of the breakfast: Pancake with bacon and apples for Petra and fried eggs (sunny side up) with bacon for me. Yummie!

At the end of the morning we drive to Sorobonne en stroll by the turquoise blue Lagoon. Lunch at Kontiki .... what a nice place this is!

We drive back over the coast road, passing Light House, Red Slave, White Slave, Hilma Hooker, Windsock ... all to do dive sides pass by.

Hunger kicks in early so head for Kralendijk. Hmmm, City Cafe only opens at 18:00, so we decide to stroll through town and enjoy a bit of the children's carnival of Bonaire. The food tasts good, and at 7 we are driving back.

In the Netherlands my brithday has already started.

February 13 - 43

We were reminded quite early to the fact that it was my birthday: Patrick and Hui Yuan at 3:00, Thei at 4:00 .... At 7:00 we called my dad and congratulated him with his birthday. Yes. my dad and I share our birthday, quite extraordinary.

Little later the (social) media are checked: Facebook & Whatsapp. Very nice to see all these congratulations!

After finishing our pancake with apple/cinnamon and bacon we leave for the marina to have our 1st dive of the holiday. Wow, Menno's boat grew a lot while we were gone! We sail towards Klein Bonaire.

First site is Munk's Haven, a nice dive site. While sticking my head under water and looking around I remember why I wanted to go back to Bonaire :-)

Back on the boat we notice that the package has been upgraded to "All Inclusive" soda and a nice fruit bite. After the 'post 2nd dive' muffins are put in the oven (in a box on the hot engine) and the caught Lion Fish are cleaned, we start our 2nd dive: Captain Don's Reef, with lots of nice shrimp.

After enjoying the fluffed-up muffin our 1st 'working day' has come to an end.



The plan is to go to At Sea tonight. Esther already attached the phone number to one of the birthday balloons on our bed.

No big surprise that they were closed, despite of the website saying Wednesday is their closing day, as also yesterday, when we passed by, they were closed. Also the telephone wasn't answered.

4 Seasons (the neighbors) it will be than. A good choice so it turned out. The bisque was good (although I had better before). The Catch of the Day (Baracuda, Wahoo and crispy Sweatbread in a white wine sauce) was excellent. Also Petra's Steak Tartare was very good. The same for the home made chocolate that companied the espresso.

Ending the day with a glass of Proseco to finish my birthday.


February 14 - Valentine's Day

Today the plan is to have a relaxed "No Diving" day, which starts with an excellent Esther made breakfast. It seems we are not the only ones with little to no plans for the day, as all stay to chat around the table. At 10 we are the 1st to leave.

Our 1st stop is around the corner at Germaine Nijdam Art Gallery. Since we are re-doing our living room, we are also looking for something new to put on the wall. The Drift Wood Art from Germaine will for sure fit our new interior. The choice is limited, as the shop in the Netherlands just 'cleaned up' the collection.

But anyway, there may be something left and if not we can always ask to make something. So we are not too worried. We will find something.

We continue to the village where a huge Cruise Ship just mored. It's the Aïda. My god, the size of that ship. The local ship owners have all set up a small stand to sell their goods. Very cozy and familiar ... so all approach us in German :-)

It's past noon, time for lunch. We return to Kontiki. It is so nice to sit there, enjoy the view and have time passing by. The local cocktail, as green blue as the lagoon, tastes very good as well.

Back at DBV we tried the 'new' jacuzzi at the pool [the jacuzzi has been there for a while now, but it was build last time we were at DBV - October 2007 - so we never saw it completed] We don't know where to go for dinner. We're not really hungry, and have difficulty finding somewhere to eat something small and light. Also no pasta on the menu (one of Petra's "con's" for Bonaire). The alternative is to try the new Super Market (Van den Tweel) to get some rolls, meats and cheese. It turns out to be a good choice.

After dinner we had a nice chat with Ty and Kelly. Tomorrow 3-Tank Dive ... so time to tuck in!

February 15 - Seasick

Today is the big day. We are going for the 3-tank dive at Washington Slagbaai National Park. At breakfast last nights nights dinner options are being reviewed. Roger and Laura ate at Cactus Blue and seemed to have had what we were looking for. Keep in mind I would say.

After again a to die for pancake we leave for the marina. Susan, who joins today to support Menno on the boat (no moorings, so someone needs to stay on the boat). After a good hour of sailing we reach the 1st site. The sea is already quite bumpy, at least for Petra and myself as we already feel a little noxious. Once in the water in noticed the plankton, the little light and hence the bad viz. We see some nice things, but due to the surge I acn't really enjoy. During the safety stop Petra is having issues with her leg (cramp?).

Back on the boat it is getting bad quickly: both seasick. Menno tries to limit the interval as much as possible to get us off the boat and in the water. The boat rocks a little too much for me and I have to get out of my BCD to hang over the side ... . We move the boat the a little calmer spot, which helps. It may not be an official dive site, but it is very beautiful. As Jolanda I decided not to bother taking my camera, which I now regret somewhat. A little further the reef is getting less interesting. And on top of that Petra had bumped into some fire coral, her hand is swelling up a little. Moving further the beauty of the reef picks up again, but I am starting to feel noxious again and feel like I am getting cold.




Back on the boat the seasickness kicks in again. Only when we arrive in the 'shadow' of the island (half an hour later?) I start to recover. Petra's hand had been treated with some vinegar. No. today was not our day. No surprise we skipped on the third dive. Tomorrow we will try again, but not so far out.

//Lion Fish: The invasion of these beautiful animals, that are not indigenous, triggers a hunt every dive. Actually we are not so fond of it, but do understand the population needs to be controlled//

Dinner at Mona Lisa. Nice, but a bit rich. The bisque beats the one at 4 Seasons. The Catch of the Day (Petra: Caribbean Pike, Jos: Baracuda) was nice. No room for desert though.

February 16 - BBQ

Program of the day:
  • 2-Tank Boat dive
  • Sunset Cruise
  • BBQ
The day starts, as always, with a delicious and relaxed breakfast. We first check if more people join today, as we can also do a shore dive day. Roger and Laura join, so a boat dive day it will be! Ah yes, we are going to Klein Bonaire. First Knife, followed by Ebo's Reef. Two very nice dives.


The sun still didn't show after the second dive, so we are all a little cold. A good moment for Menno to try his new 'on board water cooker' and prepare us a nice mug of coffee to accompany the fluffed up muffins.

After a lunch and a long siesta it is time already to go to the marina for the sunset cruise. Daan and Monique, a couple from Nijmegen that just arrived, join us in the car. Lots of laughter and smiling on the boat, despite the absence of the sun (compensated by some nice rum inspired sundowners).

Back at DBV the BBQ is switched on. We start with a Peruvian Lion Fish entree, prepared by Erica. Followed by a grilled steak (Mean-O stile). Finishing with a dessert of chocolate filled profiteroles, prepared by Laura.

February 17 - Germaine Nijdam

Our first thing to do today is buying a nice picture at Germaine's Gallery. We saw a very nice one on her website: A 120x120 cm piece with 9 equal sections, each having a different turtle painting. When we arrive we see next to it slightly smaller painting: Swirl of Fish, with a Driftwood frame. Hmmm ... it looks very good now it is finished* and the size fits our living room much better.

We think about it for another 15-20 minutes and decide to take it. We also can't resist to buy a nice piece of driftwood, looking like a sailfish, or a crocodiles head, from the "houtzee" collection. To complete it, we also take a small saying on a piece of wood: "Dream your Life, Live your Dream".


We make a down payment of about half the total amount (the cash machine in Bonaire has its limitations).

//* We had seen this painting the 1st time at Germaine. Petra already loved it. My eye fell on a beautiful driftwood frame. These two appeared to belong together, just needed their final assembly. No .... we couldn't resist! //

Fill up the car, back for a few tanks, and than we are ready for our first shore dive. We pick the "unmarked" dive site called "Taylor Maid". Ty quickly borrows me his copy of "Shore diving made easy" (written by Susan!) to assure we can find this spot. A good idea as it was not as easy as I thought. We first take a wrong turn, then we drive past big time, but finally we find it. A good choice as it was very beautiful, especially the zone between 15 en 25 meter.


After the 'long' drive back over Rincon it is time for lunch.

For dinner we went to "At Sea". We had heard a lot of good things about this place, so expectations were high. No issue, it was even better! Really a very very good dinner ... so we immediately made reservations for the next week.


February 18 - Two Tank Shore Dive

Today, after again an o so delicious breakfast [2x pancakes, 1x with apples and cinnamon, and 1x with bacon .. and syrop of course], we head for the South. Atlantis is the plan, but we seem unable to find it? .. maybe the kite surfers removed the yellow marking stone for safety? We change our plan to Vista Blue. Wow, what a beautiful reef. As cherry on the cake a cute turtle passes by.


After the dive we start our surface interval by watching the kite surfers. Look like a lot of fun. Than we drive back to Salt Pier. Petra first refuses to go, as the site is officially closed. But after giving her puppy eyes look, she decides to join. Not second of regret: man, it seems all the fish live here! Even the tarpon. Also the drama of the sunlight between the pillars is so impressive.


The 4th time in Bonaire, but the 1st time we do a Shore Dive Two Tanker. We should have done this a lot earlier ... never too old to learn eej.

Back at DBV we see that the plan we discussed with Menno in the morning ended up on the "optional plans for tomorrow" board. Oeps, we still need to pick up our stuff at Germaine's. Esther says not to worry, she'll call Germaine tomorrow morning, so we can pick all up tomorrow afternoon.

Quickly to the supermarket to get the ingredients for our BBQ for 2.

February 19 - Eagle Rays

Yesterdays 2-tank was too good not to do it again. After breakfast, and meeting the new guests, we leave for the Hilma Hooker. Petra is afraid, being a sunday, that it will be very crowded. But we are lucky. Only one truck. But than another two trucks arrived, packed with 4 divers each, quickly accompanied by their friends .. another 4 trucks packed with divers. No, we are not in Bonaire to "crowd dive", so we decide to move to the next site: Alice in Wonderland. Just us here.

Hardly in the water I spot an Eagle Ray. The elegant ray seems to be looking for food, and slowly browses the bottom. Not taking any notice of us. Only after a good 5 minutes it's had enough and moves on.


We continue and drop to the sandy bottom at about 31 meters deep, between the typical Two Reef System in the South of Bonaire. I see a lot of Garden Eels (eagle ray food!), and yep .. another Eagle Ray! This one is at quite some distance, and due to the depth I only slowly swim there. After letting us having a good look at him/her the eagle ray moves on. Wow! Two Eagle Rays in one dive!

The rest of the dive, as well as the next dive site, Knife, we see the usual stuff.  But also that is always a good enough reason to get into the water!




February 20 - Cruise Ship

Before we start our boat dive we drop by Germaine to pay the balance and agree on when to pick up the stuff. "No problem, you can pick it up this afternoon. Everything is closed due to the Carnaval so we aren't anywhere anyway".

We hurry to be on time on the boat. But no need as Menno has 2 additional customers, so it takes a little longer. We thought we recognized them, but that was very unlikely as they - Marc & Nancy - arrived with the big Cruise Ship that moored only this morning.

Today we do 2 nice dives at the North: Bloodlet and Country Garden. After that we quickly head back to Kralendijk as the big boat leaves at 13:30 sharp! Just in time ... okay 1 minute too early ... we drop Marc & Nancy on the quay.


After lunch we go to Germaine to pick our stuff. We have a long and nice chat with her friend. For dinner we go to "It Rains Fishes". Unfortunately, as yesterday at Kontiki, the food didn't impress us. The view however, is stunning.

February 21 - Wild Site Dive

According plan we leave this morning for the Cai, to do the "classic". It's just the three of us, so Menno joins us in the car. After some flamingo pictures 'en route' we stop at the Conge Mountain. After a thorough briefing we enter the water at the mangrove inlet. We follow Menno through the mercy water and reach the ditch where the tarpons always hang. Man, they are BIG. Slowly the viz gets better and better. Even the 'hoped for' Eagle Rays pass by. But even without this bonus, this is still a very beautiful (must do) dive site!



After passing by several closed restaurants we decide to go back to Kontiki. Lunch with a view ... hard to beat!

To our surprise Kelly & Ty join for tonights night dive (they had been planning to do Diana's Leap to Carpata night dive), as well as Esther. It is a boat dive at Klein Bonaire. The dive site is Knife. I enjoyed the night dive, but Petra still doesn't really like to do night dives. She also feels sorry for all the fish and other creatures that get disturbed and blinded by the many dive torches. 

Back on the boat the hot chocolate, optional topped up with a shot of rum, is waiting for us. Super!


February 22 - Salt City

One of Petra's teeth wasn't feeling well, so she wanted to have relaxing, no dive day. After the breakfast she changed her mind ... a diving day it was!

//Ty ordered Hash Browns with an egg on top. It smelled very good, and Ty assured us it tasted even better. Half of the breakfast table (incl. me) made a pre-order for tomorrow morning.//

Let's do one dive .... but let's make sure it's good one! We decide to go to the South. The plan is Tori's Reef. Kelly & Ty head for Alice in Wonderland to check if the Eagle Ray we spotted a few days ago is still around. We drive past them, and re-plan to do Salt City. Petra already wanted to go here a few days ago .. and what a brilliant change of plan that was!

Once we hit the water it already felt good. De reef edge was beautiful ... "beng" "beng" ... unbelievable, the Eagle Ray is there as well and Petra spotted it. For almost 10 minutes we could follow it browsing the reef. Finally, totally out of breath, we had to let it go.


We continue the dive following the reef. The water is soo clear and blue, the sand soo white. Almost magical. I doubt it can get any better than this dive. It is the kind of dive you hope can last for ever. But as always there is a point where the pressure gauge is telling you you're getting low on air and need to get back to your own world.

What a plan: "let's do one dive ... but let's make sure it's good one"!


Back to DBV for lunch, logging the dives and a relaxing afternoon nap. Dinner at At Sea .... delicious!

February 23 - Seahorse

Today our 3-Tank Dive is planned. Actually to our surprise, but since we didn't complete the initial planned 3-Tank Dive, Menno felt an obligation to re-try. And who are we to disagree with Menno.

On the boat we meet the mystery guest joining the trip: Charles Vos, the neighbour. Our 1st dive is at South West Corner. A nice dive, with a cute and curious Octopus as bonus. Back on the boat Petra says she rather do 2 dives today and 2 tomorrow ... well let's inform the captain later. First the 2nd dive. On Ty's request: Jerry's Reef. As both buoys are occupied, Menno takes the boat around and we jump of while sailing. We do a drift dive (on Bonaire!). It was a very nice dive. Interesting Jelly Fish at the start, followed by 5 or 6 Turtles, topped up with a big Stingray cruising by (Thanks Ty!). Wow.

Back on the boat we tell Menno we leave it at 2 for today and will get of the boat with Kelly & Ty. First lunch (it was packed and ready any way).

Than, after telling Charles we had seen it all this week ... except Dolphins and a Seahorse, he says: "I have been told where to find a Seahorse". Oeps ... change of plan. "Menno start the engine!" And there we go. Andrea I is where we should be looking. At about 20m depth just below the buoy, close to an orange Frogfish, we should find it.


We looked and looked and looked, but after a good hour we had to give up. It was a very nice dive, but the bonus wasn't home. Maybe Charles' story was too good to be true ... .

February 24 - Donkey Sanctuary

Time goes fast ... . Last dive day has already arrived. As we eventually did all three dives yesterday, we agree to only do one today. The plan is Tori's Reef. The sea is quite choppy today. At Salt City we drive past Kelly & Ty, who are aiming for Eagle Ray luck.

Arriving at Tori's Reef we see a big truck and a few piles of rubbish, the sea doesn't appear to have good viz either. We decide to return to Angel City. Viz is not as super as the days before, but beautiful it was anyway. When we stick our heads above water at the end of the dive, we see a rather large German group arriving on the beach. Just in time in and out I would say!



In the afternoon, for the first time despite this being our fourth visit to Bonaire, we go to see the Donkey Sanctuary. $7 to enter and $3 for a bag of carrots and there we go. They are soo cute! They run with the truck, head sticking through the window opening, begging for another carrot. After 45 of skiting and sliding the parks slippery, muddy roads (yes, sometimes it rains in paradise), and stopping at the wooden tower to look at the few Flamingos on the neighboring lake, we return to the DBV.



It's time for Rum Punch Sun Set Cruise and BBQ (#2). Despite the dark skies, and some rain during the day, the evening is dry and the sunset is beautiful! The BBQ that followed was very good, lots of talk and laughs. After already having eaten way too much, Esthers Apple Pie, with Ice & Whipped Cream, is served. Jummy.

Time to say goodnight.


February 25 -Time to say Goodbye

Slowly getting up, and already packing before joining at the breakfast table, we here the other guest leave. The new guest dug in the prepared fruit a little too enthusiastically. Also our bowl is already finished. Erika quickly prepares a new one. Followed by a Pancake with Apple and Cinnamon, and Pancake with Bacon.

We spend this last lazy day by cruising around the island, stopping at many dive spots and end up on the terraces of Kontiki for lunch. En route we saw little flamingo's, the Goto Lake seemed empty. (Jolanda's FB post was too late for us ... and retrospectively, as it was fake, it stopped us from making a fool of ourselves).

At Kontiki we hear that KLM had been overbooked yesterday (15 persons weren't allowed on the flight), and today it was expected to repeat. So after lunch we quickly returned to DBV to check in on-line, assuring ourselves a flight back home. It was already on their website that the flight will be delayed by about 2 hours.

The afternoon passes slowly, and it starts to rain again. How to get our stuff to the airport dry? It is way to much to get all in the cabin of the truck! Luckily Esther offers to join us, and that works out perfectly. At the airport we nervously await the next 'hurdles'.


Yes, the flight IS overbooked. They are looking for about 15 volunteers who agree to return a day later - hotel is provided). Our seats are confirmed, so no issue here. Next the luggage ... the 1st suitcase is too heavy (27kg) and also the 2nd one is too heavy (also 27kg), the 3rd, our beauty case, is only 5kg. After asking kindly and being friendly and patient, the girls behind the counter decide today is not the day to be strickt. And luggage is accepted, without repacking.

Than the hand carried luggage, including a 120cm driftwood log and a 120x90cm painting. We better check at security. A little explanation about what it is (art for a local artist) and trying whether it can pass the X-Ray, we can take the driftwood log on board as hand carry, but the painting can't pass the machine, so can not. So back to the check in desk.

The lovely girls behind the desk ask the local manager, and to our big surprise the answer is: "No problem, just put it there with the other Odd Size Luggage". No extra charge! After attaching some, provided, red "Fragile" tape on it, we leave the painting at the showed spot.

Now it's time for hugs and kisses, to say goodbye to Esther .... the journey back home can start.

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Dives logged:
[Day // Dive site // Jos:time:depth // Petra:time:depth]

13 feb // Munck's Haven // J:60m:28m // P:59m:25m
13 feb // Captain Don's // J:61m:28m // P:60m:26.3m
15 feb // Boka Bartol // J:60m:27m // P:60m:23m
15 feb // "no name" // J:62m:23m // P:61m:18m
16 feb // Knife // J:61m:28m // P:60m:27m
16 feb // Ebo's Reef // J:27m:61m // P:60m:24m
17 feb // Taylor Maid // J:60m:27m // P:60m:24m
18 feb // Vista Blue // J:62m:27m // P:62m:25m
19 feb // Salt Pier // J:65m:18m // P:65m:15m
19 feb // Alice in Wonderland // J:59m:31m // P58m:31m
19 feb // Webers Joy // J:60m:24m // P:60m:22m
20 feb // Bloodlet // J:64m:28m // P:63m:25m
20 feb // Country Garden // J:60m:24m // P:59m:21m
21 feb // Cai // J:76m:22m // P:76m:19m
21 feb // Knife // J:66m:17m // P:65m:16m
22 feb // Salt City // J:63m:24m // P:63m:23m
23 feb // South West Corner // J:58m:29m // P:58m:24m
23 feb // Jerry's Reef // J:69m:24m // P:67m:20m
23 feb // Andrea I // J:61m:25m // P:61m:25m
24 feb // Angel City // J:68m:25m // P:68m:25m

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