Friday, April 16, 2010

Kuala Lumpur (Hell)

Continued from "Villa Markisa (Heaven)"

We just had ordered lunch, when we received our first (of many) sms: "Can you fly due to the vulcane?" We think: "Vulcano on Java?". Still not really knowing what was going on we flew to Kuala Lumpur.

April 16th - Eyjafjallajokull

Arriving at KL it became clear very soon what the issue was: a vulcano reuption in Iceland had block all european airtraffic. The european airspace was closed! What now?

The message given at the Malaysia Airlines desk wasn't predicting a lot of good: "We are very sorry. Natural desaster. We can't do anything for you. I don't think you will fly toninght". Aftef a few frustrating telephone calls, which didn't get us any further, we decide to leave the airport and go to KL city.

Passed immigration the situation is a lot clearer than inside the terminal. Our luggage, without us requesting it, had already been taken out of transit and where 'waiting' for us next to the luggage claim belt. At the hotel and the taxi desk we are helped quickly and professionally. At midnight we arrive at the 5-start Maya Hotel. Our stay for the next 2 days.

Before we go to sleep I call Malaysia Airlines. After having waitd in the cue for 30 minutes, I am told we are re-booked on the Sunday evening flight (assuming it ..... ).

Van Maya - Kuala Lumpur 2010

April 17th - Stranded


Breakfast is very good, with huge selection. When checken the website of our travel insurance we conclude we are insured for such an event. We only have to contact them to register, and so we do. Now we are here, let's try to make the best of it.
 
And that is easier said than done. KL is not the most excting city. After one day - (window)shopping, swimming, eating, browsing the internet and talking to the other stranded tourists - we already striped off most of the 'to do' options.
 
Last update: MH006 KL to FRA on April 18th is cancelled. So what now? Tuesday? Or even worse? Hmmm, let's not think about that scenario yet.
 
Calling MA: "you are number 26 in line, you will be served in 72 minutes". Whatever. Let's try again tomorrow, first get some sleep.
 
April 18th - Sand Tigers
 
In the morning first thing: call MA. I waited from being number 18 in cue until being number 4 in cue, almost through: disconnected! Try again. Number 22 in cue. After 16 minutes I am through. I am given a reference number (KH79E). But basically they have no updates. I am advised to call back in the evening or tomorrow. I am told we are on the first flight, but they have no idea when that will be.
 
We added 2 nights to our stay. No issue, they had sufficient capacity. Maya even lowered the price to that for a standard room (395++ iso 495++), despite us being in a Deluxe Suite.
 
To kill some time we went to the Aquarium. It was very busy, with lots of screaming children. It was also very Asian: "Do you want to touch the Bamboo Shark?". On the other hand, the big tank was super! Especially the huge Stingray and the Sand Tigers (man, I would love to see these in the open ocean).

Van Maya - Kuala Lumpur 2010

 
April 19th - KL Sentral
 
In the morning we head to KL Sentral, where MA has a terminal (yes, you can check in in the middle of the city). At the desk they give us two options A) We can go to the airport to be standbye for a flight to Rome (the only European airport MA flies to that is still open), or B) They call us when our flight is due. As option A) was given to everybody at KL Sentral (so also passengers for Amsterdam. London and Paris) we didn;t epxect to much of it. Conclusion: we are not going to the airport tonight.
 
Latest update: MH006 KL to FRA on April 20th is cancelled. Tomorrow we must add another 2 days to our stay.
 
April 20th - Hope
 
The day passed by like a blur: sleeping, browsing the internet, watching BBC world news, lunch, browsing the internet ....... all the stories your read and hear don't make you feel better. It may take days, weeks, months!
 
In the early evening we bumped into Rene and Nell (a retired couple from Zeeland) and nice conversation with them. Back at the hotel: talk to other stranded tourists, browse the internet, call MA - unable to get through. It's like on endless circle - going nowhere.
 
We decided to try again at KL Sentral. There we are told: "you are booked on the Friday flight".
 
Back at the hotel we alerted the others and advised them to go to KL Sentral as well. It's 23:15 you can still be in time before they close.
 
April 21st - Reality
 
The 'Stick insects club" (a Dutch - Belgian hobby club interested in stick insects) had been to KL Sentral. Obviously transit has priority. So they are not going home yet. We head to KL Sentral to check if all is still okay for us.
 
No, your on waiting list. Not confirmed ......
 
We decide not to let get to us (at least for now) and take a taxi to KL Tower. Hmmm, 38 ringit. No way. Let's do the nature trail, it's for free! After having lost 2 liters of body fluid and being stung by 20 - 30 muscito's we return to our hotel room. At these times you appreceate airco .... and a cold shower.
 
The rest of the day was not that exciting. The manager of the Maya hotel offered to arrange a bus to the airport and help us book a local hotel. He also had connections that had connections at MA. Allthough he appreceated our business he wanted to help us. And according him you needed to be at  the airport to grasp the opportunities that arose, if you wanted to get home soon.
 
Little later Nell and Rene returned from the airport: "choas". So going there doesn't seem to be the better option? The Brits had arranged ticktes (confirmed seats - with seat numbers) at KL Sentral?!
 
Tomorrow we wanted to get up early and give it a try again. But first I call MA again. No success. It's 02:00 o'clock, we need some sleep.
 
April 22nd - Free at last
 
06:00 in the morning: the alarm. Auch, that's early. Bèh, I want to sleep. Petra is anoyed by my 'no actoin': "either we go to KL Sentral or we call NOW". Okay okay.
 
I am 3rd in cue, woaw that's fast. "I can put you on todays flight at 12:30 o'clock" - am I dreaming ??!! - "just provide your reference number or eticket at the airport, that's it". 15 minutes later we have packed our bags and showered.
 
Quick webcheck: YES, the 12:30 flihgt is really on!
 
A few minutes later we are down at reception with our lugage, check out and are in a taxi to the airport. 10 to 8 we arrive at the airport. "Frankfurt is desk E & F sir" Petra doesn't trust it and double checks at another desk. No, E&F is for regular booked flights, you need to go to C17 & 18, around the corner.
 
In the lines at C17 there are some French, some Dutch, bus loads of British, but no Germans? Still, we are in the line for Frankfurt? Everybody, yes everybody, is offered to be transfered to the Frankfurt flight. "connection from there is for yourself to arrange".

It becomes very obvious that the "we will call you when your flight is due" is a lie. The only way to get home is be in line at the airport when an extra plane is announced - the manager from Maya was right!

Announcement: "We are very sorry MH0004 to London is now closed. The plane is full. ... ''. Shit, I hope we will be at the desk in time - the line is so slow.

Being confirmed on this flight, as I was told on the phone, we don't believe anymore.

After almost 2 hours in line it's our turn: Seat 40A and 40C (the LAST row in the plane)! Also the diving luggage (65kg alltogther) is no issue. Are we really going home?

After pass immigration we look for an internet portal, so we can send a message to Rene and Nell. Unfortunatelly we can't get on our webmail. Little later we bump into a guy who also stayed at Maya. He was only stranded on Tuesday, but was lucky enough to be at the airport at the right time (his travel agent had warned him to be there to be on the extra flight to Amsterdam). He was booked on tomrrows extra flight to Amsterdam (again confirming that first stranded, first returned home, was a lie as well).

Big applause as the cabin crew boars to plane (it was like a rock star entrance). Damn, it looks like we are really goijng home!

Now, 3 hours enroute to Frankfurt, it is almost like a bad dream. As if we are simply returning from our holiday and the "KL episode" didn't really happen. The mental rollercoaster has almost come to an end. Still nine and half hours to fly, followed by three hours by car, and we are back home.

Unbelievable, the FIRST extra flight to Frankfurt, even before the first regular flight, and we are on it.

[following MAS's web it's even more dramatic as this was both the first and the last extra flight to Frankfurt - all others that did were origional from Frankfurt, but didn't catch this plane must have gone home through Amsterdam or Paris - and from there one ..... they were on there own]

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Villa Markisa (Heaven)

Continued from "Lotus Bungalows (Mola Mola)"

After a drive of about 45 minutes to an hour we arrived at Villa Markisa: "Paradise found"! Wauw, this looks really great. Yes, we are on holiday again. [sms from home: Griezel, our cat, is back home]

April 9th - The Liberty

Get up early! Appointment at the dive shop at 6:30 in the morning. Today we will do our first dive at Villa Markisa. We are going to dive the famous Liberty Wreck. And since it can be crowded ..... we leave early. The dive guides are a little vague in their communication (because they are still young?), but in 15 minutes all is arranged and off we go to the wreck (I quickly changed the straps from my fins to Petra's as the Aqualung fins from VM are we too big for Petra, for me they will do I guess).

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

We left early and are the first to arrive. Wauw, what a beautiful site. And so many fish. All the natives, as described on many stories of the Liberty Wreck, are home: The Great Barracuda, the Bumphead Parrotfish, the big swirling school of Jacks and many more. As it's getting busier by the minute and we are slowly running out of air we move back to VM for breakfast, which is very good by the way.



In the afternoon we head for the house reef. Our guide already tells us before we go in that the Harlequin Shrimp's are gone. Hmmm, pitty. The dive is however very nice. We saw a lot of nice critters. Amongst others a Tiger Shrimp (unfortunately taking a picture wasn't that easy). Our guide spend another 10-15 minutes looking for a small Frogfish, but couldn't find it.

In the late afternoon Petra treater herself to a Body Scrub. It was "Heaven" she said when returning. In the maintime I read my book.

Dinner - a mix of Indonesian and Thai - was very good! (I have to watch myself, I am eating too much)

April 10th - Pink Frogfish

After breakfast - it's approximately 09:00 o'clock - we leave for our first dive of the day: Bulaken. The attraction of this site is a big Pink Frogfsih. And yes, it was a very nice looking Frogfish. We also saw 2 sorpion leaf fish and of course lots of nice little stuff.

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

Strange though, that I seem to be using quite a lot of air (after about 30 minutes only 60 bar left). Due to that I fininsh the dive, after 60 minutes, with only 30 bar in my tank. And that hasn't happened for a long time. When checking Petra's gauge she still had a normal 60 bar left after 60 minutes. Hmmm, normally we are quite equal on air usage.

The second dive site was near the first dive site. A nice dive with an Octopus and again, lots of fish. And the air usage . . . . 50 bar left after a 70 minutes dive. Not bad. Not bad at all.

Time for lunch: Gado gado with chicken saté. Jammy.

In the early evening we added a night dive. Very funny, especially all those small eyes in the beam everywhere you look. Small crabs and shrimps. Some little octopus. And a few squid, 3 small ones and a big one (which I could video nicely in the beam of our torches).

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

After dinner some bad news: the Harlequin Shrimps (which Seraya Secret, Villa Markisa's house reef is famous for and which we had never seen before) were nowhere to be found.

April 11th - Shoes

Whose shoes are that?  . . . . . . And where are mine? . . . . . Hmmm, I believe I have put on Pacek, our dive guide, his shoes yesterday after the night dive. When checking at the dive shop that seemed to have happened. Few minutes later Pacek arrives at the dive shop . . . . on my flipflops.

At 09:00 o'clock we leave for Alumie (left from VM), where after a few minutes, the main attrackion has been located: Pygmy Seahorses (hippocampus bargibanti). We count four of them in the pink fan.



During our second dive, at Emerald, we are acompanied again by the Bumphead Parrotfish. A Napoleon, that seemed to have almost bit my noose, I completely overlooked. I saw Petra and Dharma, our dive guide for the day, making the typical sign, but I thought they ment the Bumpheads. Luckely I saw the second one cruising by.

In the afternoon, after lunch, I finished my book: Hypnose by Lars Kepler. A nice thriller. At the same moment Christianne, VM's owner, and 3 dive guides step out of the water: Success! They found a baby Harlequin Shrimp. So, tomorrow afternoon I may do a house reef.

To finish off the afternoon Petra treats herself to a Spa treatment. And I go or a half an hour swim in the pool.

April 12th - Two-tank dive

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

This morning we plan for a two-tank dive. At about 08:00 o'clock we leave for Lipah Bay. A 25 minutes boat ride. The dive site is very beautiful. In the shalows a sunken Japanese Patrol boat, full of soft corals. The rest of the dive site is full of hard corals and, again, loads of colourfull fish.



After our safety interval of an hour (and a bit), in which we had a nice chat with our three (!!) dive guides and the captain, we head for our second dive: a wall. Well . . .  a wall. Only for a few minutes than. After that it seems like thPacek had lost his way (it had been 3 months since he dived this site). A lot of death coral, with here and there a nice patch. Unfortunately not too exciting.

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

After lunch (Nasi Goreng - aj, we are eating too much here - it's too good) I have a dive on the house reef with Christianne, Dharma and guide "3" (later on I remebered his name is Tisnu). We saw lots of small critters, but unfortuantely no Harlequin Shrimp. Petra spend her afternoon reading her book on one of the sun beds in VM's beautiful garden.

April 13th - Just a wonderfull day



We started the day with two dives. The first one at Kubu, where we saw lot's of nice stuff. An Octopus, a Sepia and two Tapestryshrimp. On the second dive (to Batu Belah) we were accompanied by Christianne - who took all 3 young dive guides (Dharma, Tisnu and Rasni) on the boat the have then gaining experience - and Judith - a friend of the house - joined. Also during this dive we again saw lot's of nice stuff. For example a Brittle Star. After 84 minutes (yes, dives at VM are not limitted to 60 minutes at all) we ended another fantastic dive.

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

After lunch (we could choose, so again a Gado gado with chicken saté - so good) we dozed off on a sun bed in the garden. Petra did some reading. I had a swim in the pool. So nice, a lazy afternoon.

April 14th - Baby Baby Baby

Rise and shine! We are trying a second round at the Liberty, so out of bed early. Hmmmm . . . nobody at the dive shop? The captain is also very surprised that none of the dive guides had showed up yet. He immediately calls Dharma to check what happened. About ten minutes later we hear Dharma singing his favourit song - Baby Baby Baby oooh ooh a / by Justin Beaber - when he walks around the corner towards the dive shop (we think he had a little party last night). And now rush rush to the Liberty!

Again - it's such a beautifull site. No surprise it's so famous.



After a lovely breakfast we head for Coral Garden, accompanied by Pacek and "Gegen gegen" (don't know why, but Rasni said that alll the time). A very nice dive with a little bit of everything. The nicest of which a small Sepia.

Time for lunch: Soto Ajam.

After spending the afternoon relaxing we headed for our last dive: a night dive. Luckily the wind had calmed down - after a beautiful morning the whether suddenly changed: wind, thunder & lightning in the afternoon. Again a very nice dive, with again a surprise: 3 Ghost pipefish, a baby Frogfish and same Tiger shrimp.
This last dive of our holiday in Bali was my 299th dive. Petra still tops me, it was her 300th dive!!

Van Villa Markisa - Tulamben 2010

Time for dinner.

New guests. a Swiss bruiser, with wife and son. And a french couple. After the Engineer from California and the weird American couple from Pakistan (and before that Djibouti) we have had quite a circus passing by. Therefore the past two days had been so nice. No other guests, just us on our Private Villa!

April 15th - Damn knee

As with every dive holiday you can't dive the last day. The body has to de-tox before you are allowed to fly. So we spend the whole day being lazy and doing little to nothing. Okay, we had to pack our diving gear and the eveing pack our bags.

Oh no. The knee feeling 'thight' and my left lower leg started to tingle. Shit, it's starts to swell again - just as it did two days before leaving for Bali - now that we have to fly for hours and hours tomorrow.

April 16th - Leaving heaven, heading for .....

In the morning, after breakfast, we settled the bill. At least, we made an attempt. Internet banking didn't work (the connection must have been too slow). And the next option, using a Credit Card, also failed (again, no connection). Fortunatelly Christianne proposed to settle the bill back home. What kind guesture - and so trustfull!

Time to say goodbye - waived goodbye by all (yes all) the staff we drove off to the airport.

The ride to Denpassar (2:45 hours) was quite smooth. So was the check in and immigration. We just had ordered lunch, when we received our first (of many) sms: "Can you fly due to the vulcano?"

To be continued .........

Other nice video's shot while being at Villa Markisa:

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Lotus Bungalows (Mola Mola)

Continued from "Magnificent Kajane (the leg)"

Van Holidays Diving Dreaming

April 3rd - Arriving at Lotus Bungalows

After a long drive we arrived at Lotus Bungalows. Hmmm ..... that's a few levels down comparred to Kajane - the place we stayed the previous days. Also the food is quite simple. Of course this was to be expected, after staying at your all time favourit first. So let's make the best of it and hopefully the diving - the main reason we booked LB - is lots of fun.

Tomorrow our 1st dive @ Nusa Penida!

Van Lotus Bungalows - Candidasa 2010

April 4th - Mola Mola [Easter]

How different the next day can be! Okay, we didn't sleep super - the bed is small, the airco noisy and so is the fridge (which I unplugged in the middle of the night) - and the breakfast wasn't either. BUT ... the diving, the main reason, or better 'the one and only reason', we decided to go to LB is very very good organized! Everthing (yes everthing - except the diving itself of course) is being done for you. And the boat is extremely good (best boat we have ever been on!). And that's only the part above water ....

Going under it was a real treat. Beautiful coral reefs (we didn't know what to expect - and this is for sure better than what we hoped for!), good visibility and than - totally unexpected, as it is by far not the good season to see them: A Mola Mola!

Our first dive in Bali, and than to see a Mola Mola. Wauw. The huge fish came slowly up to about 27m, and stayed there quite some time (to be cleaned by butterflyfish). In the mid of the dive another Mola Mola come up and close. Seeing these fish feels like being in Jurasic Park. It also feels cold, brrrrr. These fish are normally only to be seen in August - September, when the water is much much colder (16-19°C), when they come in with the Antarctic undercurrents. Also now they came up in a cold upwelling. The water temperature dropped from about 27°C to about 20°C around the Mola Mola. And that's COLD if your only wearing a 5mm dive suite!



Back on the boat we enjoyed our lunch: Nasi Goreng. Which tasted good (and so did the sweet sambal), so they actually know how to cook. Back at LB it's time to relax on the big lounge beds at the sea side and enjoy a Watermelon Juice. Dinner was tasting good: Hunger? Adjustment? Or ..... it may not be so bad after all?! Tomorrow: Manta Point - we really hope they will be there - fingers crossed!

[I finished my 1st book: Bad Intentions by Karin Fossum]

April 5th - Manta Point

After I good sleep (putting the airco on "quiet" helps!") we headed to the boat with the following dive plan: 1st dive 'somewhere around "Nusa Penida", 2nd dive "Manta Point" and 3rd dive again "Manta Point" if the 2nd one wasn't successfull. The reason is that, due to the Manta mating season, they hadn't seen Manta's for more than a week. The obviously were doing 'their own thing' and didn't want all the diving paparazzi around.

The first dive was according plan. During the dive we saw a nice turtle. On our way to the second dive spot the sea was getting rougher as we had to pass the channel between Nusa Lenbongan and Nusa Penida. We were todl that 70.000 liters of seawater every second is passing this channel (the Pacific Ocean pours into the India Ocean 'through' Indonesia as she is a few meters (!) higher).

Petra was already feeling a little nauseous due to this. During the dive we had a constant surge, making it even worse. After a long hour of waiting and searching for the manta's, we had to conclude they weren't there. But we were lucky to see quite a big (significantly bigger as the 1.04m Wikipedia reports!) Brownbanded Bamboo Shark. Due to the surge I almost 'fell' on it, and she swam away. And than our dive guide found an Octopus (and they are soo lovely).



Back on the boat we decided to skip the third dive (we all agreed that the chances of seeing a manta didn't outway staying on a rocky boat during lunch and than getting back in the surge .... for an hour).

The boat headed for a calm bay for lunch. In the bay we met the other boat of Gangga Divers (the owners of LB). They had the big (14 persons) Spanish group on board that stayed at LB. [our luck, as we were 3 divers - the 2 of us and Karoline, a German woman, and 2 dive guides!] All the empty tanks were put on our boat to make some room on theirs. We understood they were going to have a try at Manta Point for their third dive - we wished them the best off luck. Maybe tonight, during the "Balinese Evening" we will hear if they were successfull.

April 5th - Springrolls with Satay sauce

What a lovely day! First dive with a lot of current. Nicely 'flying' over a beautiful and colourfull reef. The seccond reef was a little less nice (some dead patches), but still, a very nice dive!

Van Lotus Bungalows - Candidasa 2010

During lunch we ordered Springrolls with Satay sauce. And that Satay sauce was soooo goooood. Makes you wonder why they served satay without sauce yesterday evening during the Balinese Evening?!

In the evening we made a night dive. And what a night dive. Superduper. So many nice things to see, to much to mention. Also our favourit, the Sepia (or Cuttlefish) and the Octopus, as well as a bright orange frog fish!

April 6th - Snapping straps

The last full day at LB. Today 2 dives near two small islands just off Bali (known as Shark Point). O no, Petra's fin strap snaps. What, also the next one snaps!! Strange, one dives a 100+ dives without issues, and now they both snap in a few seconds??!!

Luckily we could use a pair from the dive shop which they had on the boat. They were actually too big, but it would do for a day.

The dive site itself was very nice, but visability was bad (peasoup). The second dive was supposed to be current dive according dive giude Putu (our dive guide of the previous days, Wayan, didn't join last night and didn't come along today - no idea why?!). Karoline didn't fancy a struggle in the current and decided to stay on the boat. She was kind enough to borrow Petra her fins: much more comfortable, as they were the same brand and size as her own. Underwater we found out that there was no current at all. We did see a Whitetip Reef Shark.

In the afternoon Karoline invited us to join her for a small drink. She brought a Bailays like liqueur from South Africa (with an Eliphant on the label, made from a flower they obviuously liked). We chatted all afternoon. Very nice!



Looking back we really enjoyed our stay at LB. Also to food seemed to improve by the day. Funny though that they mastered Italian food better than Indonesian (the Pizza's were good!). As so often, number 13 was with me again: Room #113, Dive Box #13. Yep, it was okay.
The dive shop was very very good, with a 2-tank dive EVERY day. As we prefer it.

April 8th - A little ripped off

The last breakfast at LB (jammy, bacon and eggs). Quickly pack the dive gear and than settle the bill ...... auch ..... that's a big disappointment! The exchange rate was very very bad (should be 8.x Rupiah per Dollar, it was 10 Rupiah per Dollar), so the Credit Card bill, which was in Rupiah, was quite a bit higher than expeted. On top of that they added 2% Credit Card cost. Well, what can you do. Swipe the card, close your eyes, sign and move on!

After saying goodbye to Karoline we left for our next, and last, stop in Bali.

To be continued .......