Saturday, March 6, 2010

Tanzania 'Ultimate African wilderness'


Looking back on how much we liked watching the animals in India, and thinking back of Kenia, we couldn't stop dreaming of going back to Africa. After a long search we found below trip proposal (with Untamed Wildlife Safaris).


"The Dreaming will be a reality. We have booked!"

Tanzania is known for the famous Mount Kilimanjaro and Serengeti game parks and the Ngorongoro Crater. But Tanzania has much more! High mountains with unique vegetation zones, vast savannah's with large numbers of wild animals, colorful tribal culture with a fascinating and vast sandy beaches bordered by palm trees. Few other African countries see such a wide variety of attractions, a unique combination for culture and nature lovers.

Ruaha National Park.
Ruaha N.P. is a unique piece of Africa, rugged and unspoilt, situated between the rivers Njombe and Ruaha. Flora and fauna of Eastern and Southern Africa meet here, resulting in spectacular scenery and exceptional wildlife species. The park is powered by the Ruaha River, which winds its way between jagged rock formations, forests and savannah landscapes with acacia and baobab trees. This lifeline exerts great attraction to all kinds of game.

Selous Game Reserve
In southern Tanzania is the Selous Game Reserve, the largest game reserve in Africa. This is Africa at its wildest! The reserve was declared a world heritage. Countless elephants and predators are located along the banks of the Rufiji River, which teems with hippos and crocodiles. The trees along the river seem to be alive due to the many birds. Selous G.R. is one of the few parks in Africa where boat trips can be made, an absolute experience when you move up stream along bathing elephants, stared at by dozens of hippos.



The coast near Dar es Salaam
North and south of the capital Dar es Salaam are beautiful sandy beaches, surrounded by palm trees on an azure ocean. An ideal setting for an unforgettable safari to be closed with a few relaxing days at sea.



Travel Program

Day 1 Arrival in Tanzania - Dar es Salaam - Palm Beach Hotel or similar
Day 2 Flight to Selous N.R. - Lake Manze Tented Camp
Day 3 Selous N.R. - Lake Manze Tented Camp
Day 4 Selous N.R. - Lake Manze Tented Camp
Day 5 Flight to Ruaha NP - Mdonya Old River Camp
Day 6 Ruaha N.P. - Mdonya Old River Camp
Day 7 Ruaha N.P. - Mdonya Old River Camp
Day 8 Flight to Dar es Salaam - Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 9 Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 10 Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 11 Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 12 Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon
Day 13 Transfer to the airport of Dar es Salaam - flight to Europe
The end of a fantastic journey through the south of Tanzania!



Detailed Travel Program

Day 1 Arrival Tanzania - Dar es Salaam

Today you fly to Tanzania. After arriving at the airport in Dar es Salaam you are welcomed by our local representative and accompanied to your hotel in Dar es Salaam.
Overnight: Palm Beach Hotel or similar based on bed and breakfast

Day 2 to 4 flight to Selous Game Reserve
You will be brought to the airport for your domestic flight to Selous Game Reserve.
The Selous Game Reserve covers an area of over four times the Serengeti and is nearly twice as large as the Netherlands. Its particularly unspoilt beauty and grandeur will remain in your memories. 3 days, you have the time to discover the secrets of Selous GR. From your accommodation you go on safari, on foot, by boat and by open landrover.
The park has large numbers of live elephants, hippos, lions and leopards. It is one of the last wild areas in Africa, together with the Okavango Delta and Kruger NP, which (long term) have viable populations of wild dogs. Cheetahs are also in the park, but are less common.
The Rufiji River is very rich in hippos and crocodiles. Groups of 50-100 hippos are no exception. Due to the high density of crocodiles animals are very cautious when they come to drink at the River. Nevertheless, especially in the dry season the Rufiji River attracts many animals. You make a good chance to see giraffe, eland antelope and elephant along the shore. If you're lucky, you will see lions and leopards in the morning along the sandy banks of the River.
Selous Game Reserve is also a bird paradise. There are about 370 different species of birds counted in the park. African eagles are a common sight. The beautifully colored bee-eaters, scavengers, and kingfishers you'll encounter throughout the park. If you're lucky, you'll see on a night drive the Pel's Fishing-owl (a large eagle owl).
Nights: Lake Manze Tented Camp on full board, 2 game activities per day, including walking safaris and boat trip

Lake Manze Tented Camp
The camp is located in the Selous Game Reserve, the largest game reserve in Africa and is situated on the shores of Lake Manze. During the one hour transit to the camp which can be reached from Siwandu airstrip, one is introduced to the beautiful plains of Selous and its assorted birds and wildlife. The Lake Manze area is one of the richest for game in the entire Selous, both in the dry and wet seasons.



Day 5 Flight to Ruaha N.P.After breakfast you will be brought to the airstrip and fly to Ruaha National Park. On the way to your accommodation you can make a game drive. Ruaha N.P. is a unique piece of Africa, rugged and unspoilt, situated between the rivers Njombe and Ruaha. It is a very special park with spectacular landscapes. Ruaha is located in an ecological transition zone, which is home to flora and fauna of both eastern and southern Africa. Therefore there is a huge variety of species of animals and plants. Compared to the Serengeti in Ruaha 1600 species, whereas in the Serengeti example, only 600 species are distinguished.
Overnight: Old River Mdonya full board and 2 game drives per day



Mdonya Old River
A small but great Adventure Camp , this is one of the newest and perhaps most exciting bush destinations in Tanzania. With just 11 tents, Mdonya Old River is a small camp offering a personal service tailor-made to clients' needs. And its in the best place to be - where the animals are! The tents are spread out over a large area with many shade trees.



Day 7 to 8 Ruaha N.P.
Two full days of safari in Ruaha. Lunch is taken picnic or when you return for lunch in the lodge, followed by a short siesta. The park is powered by the Ruaha River, which winds its way between jagged rock formations, forests and savannah landscapes with acacia and baobab trees. This lifeline exerts great attraction to all kinds of game. Regularly, large herds of elephant and buffalo can be seen. The rivers accommodate hundreds of crocodiles and hippos.
Nights: Old River Mdonya full board and 2 game drives per day



Day 9-12 flight to Dar es Salaam - Bagamoyo Lazy Lagoon

You fly back to Dar es Salaam and to your accommodation on the beach. Here you can relax the next 5 nights.
Bagamoyo, with beautiful, tranquil beaches north of Dar es Salaam. It is a small town where the Arab and German colonial influences still clearly can be observed. Bagamoyo means "here I put my heart", which indicates the many slaves from the in lands here left the African continent. Today, many traditional dhow boats are made here. In Bagamoyo Kaole you can visit ruins, snorkel or enjoy the sea and the local fishermen on their return with fresh catch. You will stay 5 nights at an island off the coast at Bagamoyo, where you can relax the last few days and enjoy all the impressions of the trip.



Lazy Lagoon
This idyllic exclusive island is 2km off the shore of main land Tanzania opposite the historical town of Bagamoyo, north of Dar es Salaam. A sand spit protected by a coral reef, the island is inaccessible by land at all times, thus maintaining its exclusivity to visitors to Lazy Lagoon. The coral reef surrounding the island offers a great opportunity for snorkeling off the beach.
Being an island, Lazy Lagoon is quite unique with sea swimming possible at all tides. The island has an interesting ecosystem, with many small mammals such as bush babies, (Galagoes) suni antelope and bush pig, plus birds and butterflies. Low tide washes up a plethora of exotically coloured star fish, sea urchins and crabs. All of these share their habitats with natural mangrove forest. Guests are free to wander along the 9km island – although no one has yet reached the end!
The 12 Century Kaole ruins remaining from the Arab Shirazi era with the oldest mosque on the mainland lies only 2kms across the ocean from Lazy Lagoon. The settlement went into decline two hundred years later following the disruption of Arab trading routes by the Portuguese.
Following the decline of the nearby Kaole settlement Bagamoyo grew out of the slave and ivory trade. Its was also referred to as the “gateway to the dark continent“ by explorers including Livingstone, Burton, Speke, Stanley, Grant and others who used Bagamoyo to launch their expeditions to find the source of the Nile. Livingstone’s sundried body was later carried by his two faithful servants 1600km back to Bagamoyo. Later Bagamoyo became the Capital of German East Africa.
Accommodation is in 12 large airy natural mkuti beach bandas only yards from the Indian Ocean. From the sundowner lounge above the bar, visitors can watch the sunrise over Zanzibar and set over the palm trees of Bagamoyo and feel the Swahili atmosphere as they follow the flotilla of hundreds of local fishing boats tack around the island to get from their villages on the mainland to their fishing grounds.



Individual beach cottages with en suite bathroom – shower, basin, toilet. Towels and beach towels provided. All rooms have full beach frontage, with verandah, hammock and deck chairs. The Lounge, bar, dining area is at tip of the island with views east and west. Swimming pool is available as well.
240V electricity is provided by generator for lighting and recharging of batteries. There is mobile phone reception on the island for some networks. The rooms are shady and well ventilated, but there is no air conditioning. Accommodation rates are full board including 3 meals, tea, coffee and laundry. Not included are bar drinks.

Day 13 Transfer to the airport of Dar es Salaam - flight to Europe
In time for your return flight to Europe, you will be transferred to the airport of Dar es Salaam.

The end of a fantastic journey through the south of Tanzania!

Sunday, January 10, 2010

El Quseir 2010 - dive snack



January 10th - Checking In

Getting up at 2 o'clock in th morning (after our cat already tried to wake us up at midnight). Despite of whether warnings the drive to the airport was smooth, where we arrived at 4 o'clock. Check in at 5:10, and take off, as planned, at 7:15. (just before take off it started to snow heavily, so we were out just in time)

When arriving at the Radisson Blu in El Quseir we had a quick check-in: as the offer for an upgrade to a Beachfront Room was very very tempting, we decided to upgrade (compared to booking this option from home it was almost for "free").

Next stop: Dive Shop, to check in.

A young German girl at the dive shop desk started to whine about a doctors certificate, and if we didn't have one she could arrange a check up at the local doctor. We dismissed the request (no way, paying 25 euro to a doctor who is only going to write 'no issue' as he has no medical record). Next to that it was nice to see a lot of familiar faces at the dive shop.

So, now dinner and finally ... sleep.

January 11th - Abu Sawatir

Today our 1st dive. When ariving at the dive shop the girls "big brother" did a second attempt about the doctors certificat. After a few minutes he, like all dive shops we have been to over the last 6 years - even their own a year before, asked us to fill out a waiver form, confirming that we had no of the listed medical issues.

// honestly - we better get a doctors certificate in the future, if only for our own safety //

Van El Quseir 2010

The 1st dive was with Flo. A simply briefing (go to the right there, to the left there, than back and have fun). No normal exercise as always for a 1st (check) dive, like mask floding, etc. Just the 2 of us, diving - super!



The afternoon we spent on the beach (Petra didn't feel fit for a 2nd dive). So good: sun, 24° and, almost no wind. Like perfect day in spring.

January 12th - Lagoon

Today was not a good day for me: Headache when getting out of bed and nauseous under water. I even threw up a little. No suprise I didn't enjoy this dive. Luckily Petra felt great and realy enjoyed the dive.
The afternoon we opted for the beach .... reading, sleeping.

Van El Quseir 2010

January 13th - Hoodies

The dive in the morning, at Abu Saaf, was a very nice one. Although we both had a little bit a headache coming out of the water: was the cold water? Back at the dive shop we asked if they rented separate hoods. They didn't. Therefore we decided to try our hooded vests (which we brought allong) for the afternoon dive.

As the vests are quite thick (Jos 7mm, Petra 5mm) we had to add some weight to to assure we would go under (Jos 3kg, Petra 2kg - EXTRA). The start of the dive was very beautiful. Unfortunately Petra didn't feel well, so we decided to go back.

Van El Quseir 2010

Luckily Islam helped to carry Petra's kit back to the minivan. It was quite a walk and up a dune - so no fun with a 30kg kit on your back.

Before driving back we had chat with the other divers. 2 of them had been to Madeira and were very enthousistic. Water temperature in September about 24°C and 22°C in December (so very similar to Egypt now). To be added to our To Do List ...

Back at the dive shop we were asked if we wanted to join for a day trip. Unfortunately they had one of our favourite dive sites, Bet Goha, on program as well. And as we didn't want to push our selves too much after a few days of not feeling 100% fit, we didn't want to confirm doing 2 dives the next day. But rather decide after the 1st if there would be a 2nd - maybe simple and easy on the House Reef - or the Beach?!

January 14th - Bet Goha

As hoped and expected, Bet Goha was a good choice - independent whether Coral Garden (daytrip) was good or not. We enjoyed this dive a lot, like we did last time around being here. As exeption we had asked for dive guide to join us this dive (normally we dive just with the 2 of us), as we remebered that the entrance/exit was not easy to find. Flo, one of the dive giudes confirmed this, chatting about taking a guide, a few days ago.

Van El Quseir 2010

Our guide, Mahnoud, had an ear infection or so and was very reluctant to join. Retrospectively we were happy we convinced him to join:

  1. The visibilty at the entrance/exit, coming out of a canyon, was so bad that we for sure would have had issues finding our way out and back.
  2. Two divers on the neighbouring site (Shaab Rahma) lost their way completely - trying to follow us? - and had to crowl back of the reef. No fun!




Time for an espresso.
January 15th - Eagle Ray
As to be expected: the group that did go to Coral Garden, had seen dolphins on their dive (that must have been soo lovely). Hmmm, we still have many years before us to get the same luck I would say.
Today 2 very good dives:
In the morning Marsa Waleed, where we immediately when coming out of the canyon (10min's dive threw to get to the entrance of this dive sit) we saw a beautiful Eagle Ray passing by. Little further a big Napoleon. Also the rest of the dive was very beautiful.
Van El Quseir 2010

In the aftternoon we dived the House Reef. We had listed to go to a new dive site. Unfortunately it was cancelled as the coast guard didn't clear it (not enough bakshies we were told). The alternative offered wasn't appealing, so we decided to go for a house reef dive. No hassle, just the 2 of us. And a very nice dive indeed.

Van El Quseir 2010
January 16th - Save the best for last
Our last dive day this holiday. In the morning we went to Shaab Rahma, with Hassan. Again, a very good dive. 1st through a canyon (7min's) which is quite narrow at some parts. After which a lovely dive over the reef, where we saw - next to the usual - some very nice things:
  • A big Stingray swimming away.
  • A school of Garden Eel, dancing in the current and picking the plankton out of the water.



  • A big Grouper (Black Saddle I thought).



  • And finally an Octopus, which Hassan found at the end of the dive! A real bonus!



In the afternoon we went for the beach, where I finished my book (Part II of the Millenium trilogy, by Stieg Larsson). Petra is way ahead of me and finished Part III yesterday.
Last thing to do: Eyes closed and swipe ....... (and after having been at the Maldives the previous holiday the amount to pay at the dive shop was very reasonable, almost cheap).
Time to pack our bags, a last dinner. Tomorrow we have to go home again. Another lovely diving holidat has come to an end.
[El Quseir .... we will be back!]

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Return to the Island of the Gods - Update

Following the reviews on the net about Siddhartha, we started to doubt our choice. Too many people reported the same 'not well run' experience. But okay, they just opened and it may improve .... ?
Than, during our stay on Filitheyo, we again started to doubt Siddhartha. The couple who is running Siddhartha used to run the dive operations in Filitheyo (both Werner Lau), so no doubts about the diving operations - fore sure that will be very well run. But .... the Siddhartha Resort is now RUN by a Dive Operations Manager. So a person who knows how to run a dive shop, but not how to run a Resort.

Lookin at all the reviews on our return our worry was, again, confirmed. Siddhartha is a beautiful place, but .... not run professionally by experienced people in the industry. And we know beauty is something, but service is everything!

Back to square one and look for an alternative: which we found quite fast. We cancelled Siddhartha (money back in the bank in a few days - as expected of a German/Swiss operation), and booked Villa Markisa.

Not only does this Resort receive excellent reviews only (not a surprise knowing that the couple running this place used to run the Pindito, the very high end liveaboard to Raja Ampat), but the also have an additional plus.
Villa Markisa is located in front a place called 'Seraya Secrets', a new discovered Much Diving Spot on Bali. And as we enjoyed Muck Diving so much in Lembeh, this was an easy choice retrospectively.