Vilamendhoo

October 15th - Bicycle

As always we are ready way too early. We can also wait at the airport, so we decide to leave anyway. A quick detour to ICI Paris for sunscreen and some other stuff. Bam .. scream ... aauuwwch. Petra hadn't seen the bike. He, the "hockey/Floris" type,  didn't expect her to cross the road. And there she lay, in the middle of the street. Luckily they hardly touched. But this could have been a very ugly start of the holidays.
On to Düsseldorf airport. When entering the parking it seems my new credit card is not recognized as having a prebooking on it. We'll see when we get and whether we need to claim the cost back. After a nice pasta we head for the check in counter. Our dive gear bag is deemed quite big and we're asked to drop it at "Sonder Gepäck".
First time in a A380. Inside you have no idea that there is an additional floor on top. Space is nice, seat width as well as leg space.
// I have a nice conversation with the Deutche Bank IT guy next to me. Middle East and Africa are his regions. Especially the latter is his favorite. The dozens of pictures he shows underline that. //
Touch down in Dubai after a 6 hours flight.
Clean, well organized airport. During the safety check to the connecting flight it proved that stopping at the ICI Paris was a good idea, as liquids - bought at the tax free shops in Düssledorf - can't pass through!

October 16th - 220

The Boeing 777 for the 2nd stint is a lot less clean and spacious as the A380 on the 1st stint. It's a short 4 hours flight and everybody tries to catch some sleep. The crew is very early serving breakfast. Not so handy, but I managed to catch a bit of sleep afterwards. Petra is woken up by the crew for landing (put your seat in the upright position ... ), and seems in a coma.
Passing immigration / customs smoothly. And at the luggage belt our dive gear bag already arrived. The other one, with all our regular clothes doesn't show up. As it is just us and some Germans left at the end we think there may be an issue with the luggage from Düsseldorf. When I ask I am told there still one container coming. And yes .... there is our bag :-)
Next stop: Water plane check in desk. 16.8 kg over-weighted sets us back $75. Auwch, but expected. In less than we're in our plane for our 20 minutes flight to Vilamendhoo. 

On arrival we are asked to go to the bar, rather than to reception. Are we in for a an unpleasant surprise? Overbooking? No, just a special welcome and subsequent cocktail as being a repeater guest. Nice.
And the room? 220. Which is connected to 222, the one we asked for as we liked it so much last time around. Can't be better. Time to quickly make some nice pics ... rain is coming. We are prepared for not the best of weather this time of year. Hopefully we're lucky.

October 17th - House Reef

Unfortunately yesterday's rain is still here. Some dry intervals in the morning, but after lunch it stops raining mildly. Wind and poor down. Nothing you can do about that.
The day until now. First a long sleep. Very much needed after the long exhausting trip yesterday. 8 to 8, nice 12 hours of sleep. Delicious breakfast. And than for a walk. Which only takes us to the dive shop. Petra had great hesitation diving today, but when she saw there was a 2-Tank Manta trip on tomorrow, she wanted to get into the water ASAP to make sure all is working fine! Exit 7 or 8? I decide 8 as I want to make sure we reach exit 10. A good hour later we're in the water. O boy, quite a current. We need to plan many stops and take it slow, otherwise we'll be at exit 10 - the last one - in a blink of an eye.

Petra has some issues clearing her ears. And she has a free running regulator. All solved quickly so we can start our 1st dive of this holiday. So lovely to see the coral and fishes again. Missed them. I had preview while snorkeling yesterday afternoon, but the viz is better know and corals look netter at this side. The last part, with the cave, is the nicest part. Need to do this again before we leave.

Jos: 17.8 [m] / 57 [min] | Petra: 17.5 [m] / 56 [min]

Some additional sleeping after lunch.

October 18th - Manta Manta

Yesterday I thought today's story was going to be a sad one about wind and rain. October and November is the change of the season, making the weather unpredictable. And until now we hadn't been on the lucky side of unpredictable.
Breakfast at the main - larger - restaurant today. We are arrive before they open. "You go diving?" tells me they are used to early birds like us. But where to sit. "Take any table you want sir". Okay. Although his colleague thought different, as he told Petra to move somewhere else. She ignored him and when I joined her at the table he gave up.
To the dive shop. The "blond" dive guide is already there. We're on the other boat, with Roman. They have had a lot of cancellations, but still 2 boats go out.
As per the briefing we swim slowly to the cleaning station coral block and wait for the Manta's to come. If they come ... . We wait. And wait. And wait. Nothing. Pity. Roman leaves and we follow him. We make a small round tour over the reef and return at the cleaning station. The divers from the 2nd boat, who were sitting besides us earlier, have left. TING! TING! Manta! Manta!
It's "only" one Manta, but what a beauty. She will stick with us fore the next 25 minutes. Hanging upright. Circling over our heads, enjoying our bubbles tickling her. And back to the coral black. Again and again. Man, what a how! When we surface all smiles around us. 
The plan was: 1) If we see Manta's at Coral Hills, we dive the site twice. 2) If not, than we do a 2nd dive on Mahibadhu. The captain decides different. It's too bumpy to get back in the boat on these dive sites. We return to Vilamendhoo to dive Coral Garden, the opposite side of the channel around Vilamendhoo. Roman promises the dive site won't disappoint us, and he is right. Especially at the corner where 4 White Tip Reef Sharks are on patrol (rather than sleeping on the bottom as they normally do). A nice desert. As is the sun that shines when we surface. But short lasted. Now, 17:30, it is poring rain again.

Jos: 19.8 [m] / 63 [min] | Petra: 18.6 [m] / 63 [min]

Jos: 23.2 [m] / 60 [min] | Petra: 19.8 [m] / 60 [min]

October 19th - 28-27-26-25-?

I have difficulty waking up. Slept 9 hours in one go, despite the heat and humidity (we left the airco on). In a coma. Today we have breakfast at our own restaurant (the smaller one, at the adults only side of the island). When telling our waiter, Shiraz, yesterday "see you at lunch as we are diving tomorrow morning". He said: "we open at 7:15 for divers". Okay. Nice.
At the dive shop Leila is waiting for us. "Deutsch" or "Schwytzer"? "Holländisch". Okay, the language for the day will be German.
As MV Kudhima was cancelled yesterday, they want to do that one now. The initial planned dive at the outside of the Atoll is not possible due to the wind and the waves. Okay, Kudhima Wreck was on the To Do list anyway. "I also speak Dutch" we hear behind us. It is Evelien from Rot Kreuz in Switzerland. She has a Swiss father and Dutch mother. And since she spent a lot of time at her mothers parents during her youth she speaks remarkably well Dutch. Later in the afternoon Petra tells her her sister works in the Löwe Hotel nearby in Zug. "Elly?" "Elly is your sister?" "Yes" Yep, it's a small world after all.
Analyzing the Nitrox on the boat. Yesterday the percentage was already low. 27% to 28% in stead of the usual 32% O2. Todaay it's only 25%. Tja, so we are actually diving plain air. Leila explains that the membrane (to filter the N2 out of the air and hence get a higher O2 percentage) is already quite old and delivering the new one takes forever on the Maldives (ordered too late I call that!).

The viz at the wreck is quite okay. A lot better than 2 years ago, but nothing compared to what we had the 1st time around in March 2011. It is nice to do this dive again. The Stonfish' are still around, but I see only one Batfish. At the end of the dive we crossover to the reef. OMG. All is dead! This is not how I remember this place. Later Leile explains that they had 30°C to 31°C water this summer (El Niño?) and not all coral had recovered. Pity.
The second dive is called Bopalli (or something like that), which means Batfish in Maldivian. Nice fish and a playful Nemo. But due to the lolw O2 percentage I hit my deco already after 30 minutes. No other option than to "hang" at the highest point of the Thila (~9 meters) for the rest of the dive. No problem as it is quite a nice view. 

Jos: 28.4 [m] / 53 [min] / Petra: 28.7 [m] / 53 [min]

Jos: 24.7 [m] / 61 [min] / Petra: 26.2 [m] / 60 [min]

Afternoon nap. Tring, tring. "Reception. Are you okay for a management dinner tonighht?" "Okay, see you at the 7 @ the Sunset Bar".  Let's see.

October 20th - New Manta (HOT) Spot

I still wonder what last night was all about. At the Sunset Bar Ivan (Head F&B) and Jens (GM) were waiting for us, accompanied by another 2 couples: 1 British, 1 French (we were thought to be from Nicaragua - guess that's why were picked) . Some drinks and chitchats. We continue at table in the restaurant. The 2 gents elaborate about their lives while we enjoyed the buffet. Strange, but nice evening.
Today we are going to look for Manta's again. At Mahibadhoo (capitol of this Atoll) Madivaru (Manta Point). A spot they had discovered only 3 months ago. Followed by Coral Hills. Dive guide is Adria. After the current check she reports back: "small to medium current, many divers [yep, we had already seen that from the boat], and no Manta's". Hmmm bummer. I hardly had my head in the water and I see a Manta. Yes, they are around! When we arrive at the cleaning station we see many divers. But also many Manta's - Yes! We are in for another hour of Manta Show! Petra counts 8 Manta's!
The number of divers starts to decrease and so does the amount of Manta's. There are only two left. Three. Four. ... The're back! When Petra enthusiastically signals "Nine" to me, I point number Ten out to her, just popping up behind her. Yep, we're staying to watch this.
The Manta's are getting closer and closer. One of them seems to really enjoy our bubbles and hangs above us. Lower and lower. At one point the Manta lands on my head! I can feel it's belly bulging in above me. Ooh man, this is awesome! This never get's boring.
Second dive is at Coral Hills. No Manta's this time around, but still a beautiful reef to enjoy. And that's what we did.

Jos: 15.5 [m] / 64 [min] / Petra: 18.4 [m] / 64 [min]

Jos: 19.8 [m] / 60 [min] / Petra: 20.6 [m] / 59 [min]

October 21st - Camera Trouble

Broken Rock is our first dive site. We have been here before. I remember nice corals on the top and often current. And the "Channel swim through attraction". Filip is our dive guide today. Serbian and Tech Diver. The latter is noticeable, I have never ever had such a detailed briefing. [also nice: run through the event after the dive]. We are hardly landed on the Thila when Petra bengs: A Grey Reef Shark. Filip also pointed out a Napoleon when descending, but the viz is so bad that we couldn't see more than a big shadow with the shape of. As we enter the channel the Grey Reef passes by again. I push the wrong button (camera off). When switching the camera back on I see squirt of water. And again. And again. Damn, my waterhouse is leaking! The White Tip, the Eagle Ray and again the Grey Reef I let pass by with taking a video or photo. I leave the camera switched off and hope for the best when we return.

Back on the boat I open the waterhouse. The silica bag is dripping wet. I decide to leave the camera on the boat and not take it down for the second dive. O, Broken Rock. The top was a barren spot. By far not the coral beauty as I remember it. Sad. Second dive at Kuda Thila. A shallow dive. Little bit more current than predicted. Nice but nothing special. 

Jos: 27.8 [m] / 58 [min] | Petra: 27.8 [m] / 58 [min]

Jos: 25.6 [m] / 60 [min] | Petra: 25.6 [m] / 60 [min]

Back in our room we see the big dark clouds heading our way. The next 2.5 hours it's poring down again. Good time to sleep. Something we do a lot here. And after rain ... beautiful sunshine. Time to get up and have a stroll around the island.

October 22nd - And Again!

Checked my camera yesterday. Where I first thought that one of the O-rings of the buttons was bad (still some leakage when checking in the Jacuzzi), it later on seemed to have solved itself. Maybe a grain of sand or salt in the button. So I am bringing the camera again today. Already on the boat the camera was fogging up. It's also very humid here. Quickly open, and close, and the fog is gone.
Today we go to Reethi Thila. Filip said he would switch it to 7th Heaven (because he is dying to go there), but obviously not. Due to the bad viz Filip wanted to jump on Huddu Thila (as it's big so you can see it from the surface) and swim towards Reethi Thila, which is very close by. I jump. See Huddu Thila. But all swim away? During the briefing we agreed to gather under the surface before swimming towards the Thila. And than, we're all already at 20 meters, Filip cancels the dive?!
A bit of a chaos but eventually we all surface. Filip is cursing at the captain. All back on the boat for another try. The captain had dropped us at the wrong side of Huddu Thila. This time we're dropped correct. Man, what a beautiful small little thila this is. Bummer, we can only do one time swim around the thila. With "Nitrox" of 25% you reach your deco quite fast below 20 meters. So we descent a bit, hook up, and watch the local White Tip cruise by. 50 bar, time to go up.
The 2nd dive is at our doorstep: Vilamendhoo Thila. No, the local Eagle Ray family doesn't show themselves, the school of - more than a hundred - Batfish is hard to miss though. They are quite curious and one by one swim by to take a look at us. Again we need to descent early. So we hook up and look around. It's a nice reef, bummer that the viz is not that good today.

Jos: 27.4 [m] / 54 [min] | Petra 28.0 [m] / 54 [min] 

Jos: 27.4 [m] / 59 [min] | Petra 27.4 [m] / 59 [min]

On our way back to the island Filip is still talking about 7th Heaven. "You can already put us on the list" [when we check later that night we're on, together with Switzerland].
The plan was to skip a day on Sunday and enjoy the champagne breakfast. But when a - mega - wind picks up in the afternoon we kinda forget about that plan. We also have no idea what to do whem the weather continues to be so bad. So we put ourselves on list for tomorrows 2-Tanker. Maybe we're lucky: Manta Manta. Fingers crossed.

October 23rd - Manta Manta

Today a perfect Manta spotting day. As Andy (Andrea) initially planned to go to Coral Hills followed by Mahibadhoo Madivaru, and the other time we did this (with Roman) we returned after the 1st dive, we had low hopes for today. Maybe she didn't want to go to the other dive site with the inexperienced couple that joined us? Even after half an hour at Coral Hills without a Manta I thought "is going to be such a day?". But just as we wanted to move on ... the Manta arrived (déjà vu). Yes, a lovely show ending our dive.
Hee, we're not returning. We're going to MM as planned. Nice. Only one boat on the spot. Snorkelers only. Going there we saw Adria and Roman returning, signaling 2 or 4. From the snorkel boat similar signals. So they are around.
Impatient we are waiting to jump in. Yes yes 1 hour surface interval. Tap tap tap. And ... in we go. Soon after we see 2 Manta's. But where is the cleaning station? Ah, there is Andrea. And there is the cleaning station. Man, what a show ... again. Four Manta's continuously circle the block. At one time there are even six. Skipping the champagne was a good choice.

Jos: 18.6 [m] / 62 [min] | Petra: 18.3 [m] / 60 [min]

Jos: 15.9 [m] / 60 [min] | Petra: 15.2 [m] / 59 [min] 

October 24th - Sun

We leave our room without an umbrella, as the weather seems to have cleared up. .... less than a 100 meters walking distance, just before we reach the restaurant, it starts raining again. Luckily a short shower only. Off to the dive shop. Today: 7th Heaven, with Roman and Andrea (her 1st time, to get acquainted with the dive site). Surprisingly no wind today. But the dark clouds are a clear sign. Halfway through the briefing we have to leave the sundeck and hide for the rain. Again, a brief poor-down only. The dives, 7th Heaven and Huddu Thilla, are very nice. 

Jos: 25.3 [m] / 51 [min] | Petra: 25.3 [m] / 51 [min]

Jos: 29.8 [m] / 60 [min] | Petra: 26.5 [m] / 59 [min]

On our way back the sun is shining, and yes, we missed her. Great to have her back. We can have lunch outside, as it should be in the Maldives. Now, late afternoon, overcast again. Hopefully nice weather again tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

October 25th - New Captain

Okay, again another dive guide. Today Karo is our guide. It looks like she is in bit of a panic when we board the boat. The reason is becoming clear very soon. They have a new captain. And he has no idea where Kudu Rah Thila is. Next to that the GPS locates the site 12 meters off the jetty of Vilamendhoo. Not good. And as this is a small (Kudu means small) thila, it will be difficult to locate. 10 minutes later the actual GPS coordinates are loaded in the device and off we go.
// The other captain - Mr. Cool - had dropped us at the wrong location several times, and I have heard several of the dive guides suggesting to ditch him. Maybe the did.//
Kudu Rah Thila is a treat. Such a nice dive!
Outgoing current, so Karo expects us to not be too lucky on Coral Hills, so suggests to change to Vilamendhoo Thila. Okay, whatever. Not a bad choice. Fifteen minutes in the dive we bump into a Manta. She swims slowly passed us, turns around and swims - slowly - away. Nice.

Jos: 25.9 [m] / 57 [min] | Petra: 24.1 / 57 [min]

Jos: 26.8 [m] / 61 [min] | Petra: 26.2 / 61 [min]

After lunch we go outside as the weather is lovely. At the dive shop we have a chat with Hussein. He is planning a trip up North (yee!). But already warns us it may end up in a 'Thila Trip" as the weather is not quite stable.

Fingers crossed!

October 26th - Scooter

Last night Filip was already glowing like an exited little boy. Today he entered the dive site with a big smile: SCOOTER DIVE! Looks like he's looking forward to this dive even more than us :-)
We have 11 divers on the boat, almost all new faces, and 2 dive guides. Filip (our 007 guide) and Andrea. She will guide the group after Filip has dropped us off at the right spot. Just like on 7th Heaven this is her first time to guide Lucky Hell. Same entrance though, as these sites are located back-to-back. Our plan: start with the group, torn around to do 7th Heaven and than return doing Lucky Hell. We enter the water first to get the scooters handed over from the boat and clipping them on the BCD. The dive is done as planned. At the back side of Lucky Hell (atoll edge side) we meet the group again. We continue to the start and turn around. Too much current. These scooters aren't super strong. The current wins.

Jos: 29.0 [m] / 53 [min] | Petra: 27.5 [m] / 54 [min]

Jos: 30.8 [m] / 61 [min] | Petra: 29.1 [m] / 61 [min]

Back on the boat we are trying to recruit some divers for tomorrows trip up North. Not really successful. We'll know for sure tomorrow. The 2nd dive was planned as a shallow dive. Two cozy White Tips dozing in the sand making it my deepest this holiday.
Lunch time! Again soooo good. As is breakfast and for sure dinner. I need to watch my weight back home ... and loose some. I am sure.

October 27th - North Ari Trip

We couldn't believe what we saw when we checked the list last night. Another 8 diver signed in, so, with us, the minimum 10 divers! We're going North! According Filip Hussein and Leila would join. And yes, they did. Beautiful weather, no waves hardly any wind. Man, we're soo lucky. Next to us 3 Swiss (St. Gallen - 2 brothers, 1 girlfriend), a British family (mom, dad, daughter), a Danish guy and a very quiet guy (did hear one word from him the whole day). After 2.5 hours we reach Maayaa Thila. Our starter as Leila said.
// For Hussein and Leila most likely their last trip North. They tell us they are moving to Kurumba where Hussein will be the dive shop manager. //
The viz is not good, but still something to see. Especially the Eagle Ray swimming along was nice. And the strange Octopus who wanted to have his picture taken - very a typically he came out of the reef and showed off when the camera's flashed. Hide when the flashing stopped, And came back out when the flashing started again. Never seen this behavior before.
After one hour surface interval we're at Hafza Thila (my 500th dive). OMG the viz is horrible. Okay, we see the Grey Reefs. But nothing compared to the "Shark TV" we had 2 years ago. Bummer.

Lunch, and than Fish Head. Again, horrible viz. Luckily Petra was stubborn enough to go deep at the end of the dive, because there the were: the Grey Reefs (and I gladly followed my dear buddy).

Jos: 22.6 [m] / 60 [min] | Petra: 23.5 [m] / 60 [min]

Jos: 23.8 [m] / 61 [min] | Petra: 21.3 [m] / 61 [min]

Jos: 23.2 [m] / 59 [min] | Petra: 22.9 [m] / 59 [min]

That's the diving done for this holiday. Back to Vilamendhoo enjoying a wonderful sunset from the boat.

October 28th - Last Day in Paradise

There it is again, the inevitable day. The last one. Diving done. Time to stroll around the island. Shoot some nice pics. And dream about a next time (10th ... ). The mandatory credit card swipe. And than the Repeaters Cocktail (for which they had forgotten to invite us last week).
Uncomfortable, fake casual, conversation with the gathered staff. But it was nice to talk to the British family we met on the boat yesterday. 

October 29th - Going Home

Wake up call: 4:30
Luggage outside: 5:00
Breakfast: 5:15
Sea plane: 6:00

"We're very very sorry, some issue with the sea plane. You're now scheduled for 6:45". And at 9:10 our intercontinental flight leaves Male. That's going to be tight. Petra is not happy. Up too early and 45 minutes to waist. Okay, let's do another final round around the island. There is the sea plane. And the dhoni already left. Hmmm, I guess that's what they were really telling us at reception. We're on the 2nd in stead of the - initial planned - 1st flight. Petra is really not happy. Just when I want to walk to reception to check whether the people waiting have also been delayed I hear they are Dutch (from Heerlen). Strange, almost 2 weeks here and hadn't seen anybody from the Netherlands, and now, when we leave, we meet 7!
No, they were scheduled on the 6:45 flight from the start. But also they need to catch the same flight to Dubai and also from there to Düsseldorf. Despite their later departure their wake up call was at 5:00. Okay, seems normal. But were still a bit worried as it really is tightly planned.
And yes, it was tight. But with a little skipping the line we all caught our plane. A small delay leaving Make, but an on time arrival in Düsseldorf.

This was our 9th time to the Maldives and it still tastes like more ... 

Scuba Lodge Curaçao

April 23rd - Troubled start

We fly at 9:10 from Düsseldorf, so an early rise (4:30) to be on time. We check in: Diving Bag 23 kg, duffel bag with clothes 16 kg. Hmmm, did we really pack all we intended to bring? We'll see - no worries.

The direct flight with Airberlin to Curaçao was quite comfortable. An hour before we land I remember I hadn't de-blocked my bank card for use outside of Europe. And we didn't bring enough cash for the taxi. Luckily the free WiFi at the airport works fine, so I can de-block using the bank app. The ATM is around the corner and the NAFs (Netherlands Antilles Florins) are popping out without an issue.

We get in Juriena Frans' - a friendly lady - taxi and arrive at Scuba Lodge in no time. A very friendly welcome from Dalies at the desk. Ah, Petra and Jos. Oatmeal! 

On the way to our room Dalies smiles and says we have been given an upgrade. Nice! Curious what the upgrade will be? Where are we going? Totally outside? We first take the left, but there is some restructuring ongoing, which we can't get passed. What a noise and dusty mess?!

The upgrade happens to be the owners apartment, next to the actual Boutique Hotel. Big, yes. Sea view, yes. But it's run down and lacks the special atmosphere the Hotel is known for and why we booked it. Not happy!

As I start to slowly unpack, Petra is back to reception to inform for other room options. We are shown room 18. Nice, but a bit dark and no sea view. We don't know what to do. We are tired and feel cheated. We booked less than 5 weeks ago. No mention of any reconstruction and the room we booked is not available due to that reconstruction ... .

// While Petra was gone I was trying to open our luggage. I found a small kitchen knife and used that to cut through the tie-raps I used to secure our bags. I use some force and direct the knife towards myself (yes, stupid - but I was tired .. ) and plant it straight into my other arm! Auw. A flesh wound and in this climate, in this climate and in combination with my medication. NOT good. We call for a doctor. F.D. Da Costa Gomez. He takes care of the wound. Cleans it. Glues the flesh together. Packs it in bandage. And finally, better safe than sorry, gives me a Tetanus injection. //

What to do? Room 18 or stay? We head back to reception. Dalies can also offer room 6. But that is a regular room. Not what we booked and not what we want. Finally we choose room 18. It feels like the best of the 3 - not so preferable - options. Had they given us room 18 from the start, I doubt there would have been an issue. The room isn't very bright, but clean, new, has a small kitchenette and is bigger than what we expected.

Let's unpack. It's okay now.

April 24th - Bank Card - ATM

We wake up early. We decide to have breakfast at Bijblauw, next door. They open at 7:00 (iso 8:00). We pass by PM78 going there. Yep, we could have booked that one as well. Maybe next time? The breakfast is very good!

At 9:30 Patricia gives us a little tour / introduction of the hotel. We also drop by the in house dive shop to sign in. A nice, cozy, easy going atmosphere. Tomorrow we'll do our first dives with Daan. Starting at 8:30.

Time to get some cash so we can do some shopping. Hmmm. Transaction not possible! I try again. And again. And again. Nothing. The Dutch folks behind me, same bank as us, have no issue. Strange. Back at Scuba Lodge I contact my back via their app. They can't find any issue. All should work. When I ask if they can activate Petra's bank card for use in Middle America, they say they can only do that Online or by Phone. As we forgot the bring the Bank Dongle it will be the latter. I call them and 5 minutes later all has been arranged. 

Back at the ATM, this time with Petra's Card. Again, no money! Damn. What to do now? We find another ATM, from the same local Bank, a little further down the road. No issue - money! Hmmm, maybe the Dutchies in front of me took the last 400 NAF, and the 500NAF I tried simply wasn't in the ATM anymore? We'll never know, but it doesn't matter now.

Lunch and chilling at Scuba Lodge. The day slowly passes by. We both haven't found the holiday feel yet. Maybe tomorrow when we go diving. Otherwise maybe rent a car and have a look outside Pietermaai.

April 25th - 1st Diving Day

Meeting at 8:30. Two-tank with Daan today. Another 5 persons are joining today! After a quick briefing all stuff is shoved into a minivan and off we go. Marie Pampoen is the 1st dive site. Once underwater we are happily surprised. Nice reef, and soo clear - great viz! As we are joining a group the dive is not to deep and we still have plenty of air when we get out, despite starting with 180 bar only.

2nd Dive is at Tugboat. Also a beautiful site with lots of life. The dive ends under a pier, which is gorgeous.

Jos: 22.6 [m] / 59 [min] | Petra: 22.6 [m] / 58 [min]

Jos: 18.0 [m] / 65 [min] | Petra: 15.8 [m] / 65 [min]

Yes, we have the taste of it now. So back at Scuba Lodge we ask for the plan for the coming days. Thursday is no issue, but after that they are FULLY BOOKED! What? After complaining for a minute or 3 we decide to let it be, rent a car and dive with the two of us. We do 'book' for Saturday afternoon however, to go to thé dive spot: the Superior Producer!

The rental car is confirmed soon after. A Kia Picanto in stead of the Suzuki Jimmy we asked for. That one was not available anymore. Bummer, but can't help that. We go to Bijblauw for dinner. Excellent! Let's do that again before the holiday ends.

April 26th - West Point

Today the "West Point" Day Trip. Adriaan is our guide today. And it's only 4 of us. Next to us 2 and Adriaan MaryAnn from Toronto joins. Nice and relaxed, such a small group. 

The 1st dive is at the West tip of the Island: Playa Grandi (Piskadi). This place is famous for its Green Turtles. They are attracted by the spills from the local fisherman that clean the fish, and throw the cut off bits and pieces in the water. Once you stick your head under you can spot at least one. Safety Stop playmates. We first do a tour over the nice reef. Back at the beach we see the baitfish in the shallows being hunted by the Jackfish. We spend some time with the beautiful turtles. Than I remember Adriaan talking about a brown seahorse on a piece of rope. It took some time, but we did find it! What a bonus! A long and nice dive.

Jos: 17.7 [m] / 88 [min] | Petra: 17.1 [m] / 87 [min]

For lunch we drive to Playa Porto Marie. A few photo stops later we arrive. Once we have finished our burger and most divers have surfaced, it's time for us to go under - searching for the Frogfish. It doesn't take Adriaan long to find it. A very beautiful yellow one. After an hour checking out the reef we return to see if Mr Frogfish is still around. He is, but decided to go for a little walk. Such an odd looking fish.

Jos: 19.8 [m] / 68 [min] | Petra: 19.8 [m] / 68 [min]

Back to Scuba Lodge. King's Night tonight. 

A very short visit of the festivities. Towards Punda and back. The both of us are way too tired (up at 5:00), so back to Scuba Lodge for dinner. At the time the party really started (22:00) the both of us were already tucked in and dreaming of turtles. Zzzzzz

April 27th - King's Day

Today is a good day to sleep in. (well it should be, but ... Petra was awake before 5:00, I myself at around 7:00) Breakfast at Scuba Lodge today. Maybe not the best day as it took long and wasn't that special. They did make Petra's oatmeal though, with cinnamon. Even I liked it! Time for a pre-siesta (for sure Petra needed one) and than off to the Nieuwstraat.

It's hot and busy on the Nieuwstraat, with all the King's Day festivities - mainly for children. We browse through until we reach the Pondjesbrug. It just opens, so we have to wait. We check out the other side (Cruise ship side), not so our thing. We return after 2 hours back at Scuba Lodge. Tired and hungry. Time for a late lunch. The rest of the day we spend doing as little as possible. Floating in the pool, staring over the ocean ... as the day slowly comes to an end.

April 28th - BBQ

Today Bob will be pour guide. Next to us another 4 ladies join, Swiss (2 divers) and Dutch (1 diver 1 snorkeler). Looking around it is clear that Jan Thiel is the Dutch hotspot on the island. Bob used to work here for a few years, so he can find his way blindfolded if needed.

After a long swim out we go down and to the left. Again a very nice dive site. 

Jos: 21.6 [m] / 64 [min] | Petra: 21.6 [m] / 64 [min]

During the safety interval I get a notice from the local diveshop owner as I left my tank standing on the table. "Next time you have to bring apple pie for all!". When he learns we are from Maastricht he rather has Rijstenvlaai. The 2nd dive is the same, but now we do the reef to the right. Nice.

Jos: 18.0 [m] / 67 [min] | Petra: 18.9 [m] / 68 [min]

We're still full from lunch, so we skip the diveshop's happy hour. We do join the BBQ, which is very good.

April 29th - Rental Car

As of today we are going to go our own way with 'our' Kia Picanto. It may be a small car, but all our dive gear fit in without a problem. Off to Directors Bay, a gorgeous dive spot. It even has a real wall. Again the water is super clear. The reef is beautiful and full of life.

Jos: 19.5 [m] / 91 [min] | Petra: 18.7 [m] / 91 [min]

On our way back we spent a lot of time - really a lot - to search the seahorse that may life here. We didn't find it. Bummer. In the evening we drive to the super market to get some nice stuff for diner and to snack. Yes, very handy to have car!

April 30th - Superior Producer

Now that we have a car we can take care of our own breakfast. Not so adventures having your 'home' breakfast from the dutch supermarket, but o so relaxed. As was our morning at the pool.

As planned, Bob takes us to the Superior Producer. There is a huge ship moored right next to the dive site, and the sign says it's not allowed to dive in such case. Bob says that to his knowledge only cruise ships and marine vessels should be avoided. And since this ugly big thing is neither of them it should be no issue to dive .... . Okay?!

Man, what a site. Soo beautiful. Huge wreck, overgrown with corals. The hull full with Tarpons. A big school of baitfish hanging over the bow. On the return squid, octopus and a turtle on the reef. And again, super good visibility.

Jos: 30.8 [m] / 62 [min] | Petra: 30.6 [m] / 62 [min]

The perfect day it seems. But than. Roosendaels, Bob's tip for dinner, is closed. Okay, can happen. Back at Scuba Lodge the gate doesn't open. Ah, your key is expired. This was quickly fixed. But than also the room doesn't open. "There is something wrong with the lock. We're trying to solve it already for some time now". The only option is for the security to open our room. (they try very hard, but several things still go wrong .. ).

We decide to leave Scuba Lodge for a diner and end up at Ginger, in the middle of Pietermaai. Good choice! Back at the lodge the guard, Jimmy, hands over the master key, so we can open our room. Just before we enter the room we bump into Patrick. If we could hand over the key to Gea tomorrow morning at reception. She will take care of the issue. Okay, but first sleep.

May 1st - Pick-Up Trucks are Overrated

I can't get over the practicality of our small car. Whether it is doing our own shipping, or being able to dive when and where ever we want - flip down the back bench and all our stuff can be put in without an issue. It does the job perfectly! First dive is at Snake Bay, a 20 minute drive.

Jos: 21.0 [m] / 71 [min] | Petra: 19.2 [m] / 70 [min]

Back for lunch. Baked eggs with tomato. Than for the 2nd dive we go all the way to West Point, Alice in Wonderland (Kalki Beach). An other very enjoyable dive - pity the sun is not out today. On the way back we take a small detour to see the flamingo's. 17:30 we are back at Scuba Lodge

Jos: 25.0 [m] / 72 [min] | Petra: 23.7 [m] / 72 [min]

May 2nd - House Reef

Last full day at Scuba Lodge. We do our last shopping, full up our "dive truck" and return it - which is nothing more than just dropping the keys at reception, how easy can it be! The plan is to do the House Reef, but there are sizable waves. So we ask Adriaan for advise. He walks to the shore with us and points out where to enter and exit, how to do that and what to look for to find the exit under water. Great! Looking at the waves he admits it will not be easy, but he's sure we're okay.

Once we're back with all gear on it is not to bad at all getting in. And boy, is this again a nice dive site. Lovely corals. Plenty of fish. Ting ting. Petra spotted a lobster. And a Giant Barracuda. And a HUGE coral crab. Another lobster. And another one. If we ever go back here we for sure need to do this site again. A very nice finale of our diving in Curaçao. But now ... we need to get out of the water. And that is not easy at all. The closer we get to the shore the stranger the surge. Once we are trying to climb out on the small beach we are both grabbed by the waves several times and pushed over. Final I am out so I can drop my gear and help Petra out as well. 

Jos: 24.7 [m] / 71 [min] | Petra: 23.8 [m] / 71 [min]

With a few scratches, but big smiles on our faces, we walk back to the dive shop. The rest of the day we spent at the swimming pool, and a walk to the Pondjesbrug. We'll have dinner at Bijblauw. 

The holiday is coming to an end.

May 3rd - Going Home

It is that day of the holiday again. We start with a breakfast at Bijblauw. When paying the bill is NAF71 where it was NAF55 every previous time. Coffee isn't included anymore and not so cheap it shows. But it was good so .. .

Packing. Settling the bill. Taxi to the airport. Two coffee, a pie and a sandwich with croquet later we're on the plane. Direct flight to Düsseldorf.

Nine and half hours later we land. Pick up the luggage and drive home, back to our two furry friends.

Raja Ampat - Wobbegongs & Mantas

[2 days earlier] "Hmmm ... double booking?", and the original one only gives error notifications?! The new one is only one way, and stops at Makasar?! The chat with KLM didn't help a lot: "this is how your travel agent arranged it, you better contact them". According Natalie, from Diving Holidays, our travel agent, all was going to be okay. She had called Garuda ... 

Much later that day we could finally check in on our original booking/itinery. Pfew.

November 20th - Double Booking

Smooth drive to the airport, no traffic. 

At the KLM checkin desk: "No, I can only see you going upto Ujung [Makasar] and can only check in your lugguage so far". What!?. "Garuda is in terminal 3. Not sure where exaclty but you can ask there". @$%$% aagghh.

"O?" "Now I can see the 3rd flight too". .... what a pleasant surprise, pfew. All lugguage checked in and labelled for Sorong.

To the lounge, flights in 2 hours already.

Amsterdam → Singapore → Jakarta. At Jakarta Airport we need to re-check-in our luggage for the domestic flight [luckily some curious ground staff asked us what company we were flying and to where, advising us to do so]. The Visa On Arrival was also quickly arranged. Two more flights to go: Jakarta → Ujung [Makasar] → Sorong.

November 22nd - Papua Explorers

Arrival at Sorong. No need to wait for the luggage. Also Jamal from Papua Explorers is already there. We're put in a car to the Marina Hotel, where we need to wait for the boat trip to the resort @ 11:30 [so 5 hours later → at that moment we think that's because we have a "free" transfer and hence need to join the Supply Boat. Later on we understand that even a Private Transfer wouldn't be leaving much earlier].

Little after us Magnus and Una from Sweden, and Gary and Barb from Canada arrive. We all patiently wait for the 5 hours in the hotel, and the 2.5 hours on the boat to pass. A pod of Spinner Dolphins is saying welcome to Raja Ampat on route. Very nice.

The welcoming sounds of music and singing we can here from quite a distance, getting at the resort. [very nice, but no time to enjoy. TOILET NOW!]

Lynn (Australia) is taking care of the arrival briefing, after which lunch is served. Dive Shop briefing at 17:30: Unpack. Put our dive gear outside. Shower. Already time for the briefing. Arnoud (Arno) from France (± Nice) does the briefing. Dinner.



It's getting dark and I feel I am getting sleepy and tired [not a surprise after a 40hrs trip and still standing all day]. At eight o'clock we're done and go to bed, to only wake up at 4. Yes, very early, but still 8 hours of sleep. An hour later we go to the jetty to enjoy the sunrise. It's gorgeous. 

November 23rd - Slow Start

Breakfast with Sweden, Canada, Lynn and Arno. We also have a chat with the other Canadians at the Resort (familie Brouwers ... and they do speak Dutch, we need to watch it ;-)). The rest of the day is for relaxing, taking pictures and ... already time for lunch.

In the afternoon I go into the water to do some snorkling at the house reef. It's nice, but not "out of this world" as one is told when going to Raja Ampat. No need to find Nemo, they were everywhere. Finally the jellyfish (many of them) drive me out of the water.

"Did you see the Dophine?" "Did you hear it?" "It was 2 meters behind you ... we kept calling you". Me again .. missed the Dolphine ... 

Dinner: Gado Gado, saté, ... jummy.

November 24th - Ill

Petra didn't feel well getting up. Her throat was hurting, snotty and a bit feverish. At breakfast it's just Una, Magnus doesn't show up [Belly something ..]. Gary and Barb are at the table. Petra wants to give it a try anyway.

In the middle of the briefing Gary pops-up: "Barb isn't too well, so we will not join today". So, just the three of us. Guide is Hakim. Arno remembered he had to fly to Singapore tomorrow, so better no diving today.

Petra had some issues clearing her ears the 1st dive.

Jos: 61 [min] / 27.1 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 25.0 [m]

After a nice safety stop on the jetty of the local village (where we see a Walking Shark) we start our 2nd dive. This time some nice current, so we can watch the big barracuda's, hanging on our reef hook.

Jos: 60 [min] / 24.7 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 23.2 [m]

During lunch Una tells us Magnus is still not feeling well and she will stay with him. Petra already told me this morning she will only do 2 dives today. So the couple from Austria, Wilfried and Helga [Maldives junkies, Vilamendhoo, Filitheyo, numerous liveaboards, etc.] will be my buddy's for the afternoon dive. Gary joins to snorkel.

It is not a brilliant dive. Little current. Not much sun. Luckily my new Dive Torch works fine.

November 25th - Empty House

What a postivity. Those crazy Canadians (actually from Brabant, The Netherlands .. some time ago). Laughing and yelling another 3 rounds with the speed boat before they finally say goodbye and head for Sorrong. With them some others left, leaving only eight of us at the resort. That's it.

Our neighbours, Gary and Barb from Canada. Such a lovely and possitive couple. 71 but still thinking about getting certified to dive. Although keep on snorkeling is fine as well. Winfried and Helga from Austria on the otherhand seem less possitive. But when it comes to diving ... they are fanatics! Winfried learned diving when he was 48, that's 20 years ago, and has logged about 2000(!) dives since. All warm water dives. Helga got certified in 2002 and logged an unbelievable 1400 dives since. I hoop I will be as fit and adventures as them when I am 70 years old. Half of that will do, as I can't keep up with them already.

Yesterday the signs were already there. Music and singing, as the Canadians left today, but Petra didn't want to stay. Not feeling well. I am also doubting my fitness, and decide to stay with her for a "No Divinge Day". I know what happens if I push it: I will regret it later on. So this is the better choice.

Good news from Hakim: They fixed Petra's regulater .... they replaced the hoose ... for free. Wow!

November 26th - Diving Again

Mixed feelings today. The diving is not what I expected it to be. The current made the dives messy and the plankton 'killed' the visibility. The 3rd dive, Cape Kri, was the worst. Hanging for 50 min's in the current with nothing interesting to see. On the other hand, I saw my 1st Wobbegong. And another one on the 2nd dive. They are sooo beautiful. With a Sepia, an Eagle Ray, a Blacktip and a Wobbegong, the 2nd was memorable one anyway.

Jos: 53 [min] / 16.5 [m] | Petra: 53 [min] / 15.5 [m]
Jos: 64 [min] / 22.7 [m] | Petra: 62 [min] / 22.0 [m]
Jos: 57 [min] / 13.1 [m] | Petra: 57 [min] / 11.3 [m]

After the 3rd dive we explained to Hakim what happened. Tomorrow we'll go for some easier dives. And that's a better choice as Petra isn't top fit still and I am exhausted after a full day of diving.

November 27th - Manta Manta

And again we wake to the most beautiful sunrise ever [when you see those colorful Indonesian paintings .. they aren't exaggerated at all!]. O, what a beautiful place is this. Not to forget the bird alarm in the morning.

Today Manta Sandy and Arborek. As we don't spot mantas when passing Manta Sandy, we start at Arborek. When we see 2 mantas we jump in for a quick snorkel. Lovely. Arborek is a nice dive. Due to the current a bit of work to do. 

Jos: 56 [min] / 20.7 [m] | Petra: 56 [min] / 18.9 [m]

Manta Sandy surpasses all our expectations. One full hour of manta show, 5 white and 2 black reef mantas.

Jos: 66 [min] / 16.5 [m] | Petra: 66 [min] / 16.2 [m]

The third dive, Hakim's favorite site, is also beautiful. A very nice diving day today!

Jos: 57 [min] / 20.4 [m] | Petra: skipped

November 28th - Three Average Dives

There was a lot of plankton today, so bad visibility. And that is always a pity. The 1st dive. Okay, a pygmy seahorse. The 2nd dive was a gorgeous wall. But since the light was coming from the wrong site, and since the island is like an overhang (hat), there was far too little light to enjoy the beauty to its full extent. The 3rd one was the same one as I did yesterday - at that time we did the top (flying over) and the viz was much better - when it was a lot nicer. Also the wobbegong was gone ... .

Jos: 66 [min] / 22.9 [m] | Petra: 66 [min] / 21.6 [m]
Jos: 61 [min] / 21.6 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 19.2 [m]
Jos: 66 [min] / 19.9 [m] | Petra: 65 [min] / 19.2 [m]

Gary and Barb went home this morning.

November 29th - Manta Manta ... Again

This morning we go for "Blue Magic". According Winfried the best dive site around and a chance for Oceanic Mantas. The season had started, so who knows?

Arriving at the site 2x good news. 1) just 2 other boats, and they are already in the water some time. 2) The mantas are here! We are dropped a little to far on the reef and need to work our way back a bit. Only 10 minutes in the dive Nando, our guide, sees a manta. We swim there to take a look. It's a gigantic oceanic manta. The next 50+ minutes it stays around, looking at us - checking us out. Just hanging on the reef it comes in so close ... like an eclipse, banning all the sunlight. What a dive!!

Jos: 72 [min] / 22.9 [m] | Petra: 71 [min] / 22.0 [m]

The 2nd dive, after our interval at Bat Island, was a nice dive with small stuff (except the Napoleon and Bumphead parrotfish ...). Mild current, so a lovely flight over the reef. 

Jos: 63 [min] / 22.0 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 22.0 [m]


We're back late and the new guests had arrived. 12 Russians and a few other nationalities. The resort is full again.

[we already miss Barb's ear-to-ear smile]
Winfried and Helga are not so happy. The drink prices have gone up 30% (new season start?), and that is a lot as the wine is already not cheap to start with in Indonesia. After the 3rd dive (they did Otdima again) they were smiling again. It had been a very nice dive they said.

I am going to skip the night dive I planned. Enough is enough. Let's call it a day .. 

November 30th - Washing Machine

Heavily clouded. No sun. The plan today is to do "Mike's Point" & "Cape Kri". During the 1st dive I am getting a bit chilled. Should have listened to Petra and wear my new 3mm body. During our safety stop, looking up, we see it started to rain. Getting out 'rain' seems an understatement, it's poring down. The boat is already filling up. Now were all cold. I quickly put on the 3mm body. We are heading for Yenbuba pier (we thought we would go back to the resort).

Jos: 60 [min] / 25.6 [m] | Petra: 60 [min] / 24.7 [m]

A chat with Una and Magnus, two cups of warm thee, and off we go for the 2nd dive. OMG, what a current! We reach the reef, but the current is from the wrong side (did we jump at the wrong side of the split? **). We all look at eachother, hanging at the reef in the strong current, and decide to cancel the dive. We let go of the reef and the current flushes us away. We fly over the reef, and than get pushed off the reef into a down current. We drop 8-10 meters in no time. Bubbles going down in stead of up. Very scary. I inflate my BCD and try to swim up. Slowly we go up ... and than it's calm again. We start our safety stop, but we're pulled down again. Out! Out! Vernando took Petra by the hand the whole time. Very thankful for that as she was close to panicking.
On the surface, waiting for the boat, Vernando is right next to me. In seconds he drifts 10 meters away. Man, crazy currents here! Winfried, who didn't get blown of the reef, is already on the boat. Little later we also pick up Helga. Jerry also had to take her by the hand and got her out safely. They got pulled to another direction.
"Anybody for an afternoon dive?" "YES!"

(** Later Hakim explains that there are different current directions at different depths. Only having reached 9 meters we probably didn't reach the main/bottom current, but stayed in the top current .... with above consequences)

Jos:  9 [min] / 16.8 [m] | Petra:  9 [min] / 15.4 [m]

During lunch Winfried makes sure the drink prices will remain as was for them. We took a little nap. And than time for the 3rd dive. "You want an easy dive?" Arno asks. "Yes". "Okay, let's go for Manta Sandy!". A good choice. Lovely 1 hour with 7 - 8 Manta's that keep flying by to go to the cleaning station and back in line. One could say the light was from the wrong site, and the viz wasn't that good, but who cares with so many Manta's to look at.

Jos: 69 [min] / 15.9 [m] | Petra: 69 [min] / 15.9 [m]

In the evening Arno asks me to share my manta video's and pictures for his "Identification Log". He also had a lot of questions on what we had seen the passed days. How many boats at each site, etc. Yes, the Marine Biologist is serious about his passion. 

December 1st - Easy Dive Day

Some days don't have much to report, and this is one of them. A relaxed day with some easy dives. The current, as 'promised' during the briefing, isn't there. But we did see beautiful reefs, especially on the first 2 dives.

Jos: 62 [min] / 23.5 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 22.6 [m]
Jos: 61 [min] / 26.2 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 25.9 [m]

Curious which Bird Watching experience Una liked best. She had already done the morning one and is now going to do the afternoon one. Tomorrow Magnus and Una will leave. Pity. We enjoyed their company and conversation.

Jos: 61 [min] / 29.6 [m] | Petra: 61 [min] / 26.5 [m]

December 2nd - The Passage

A tour around the island today. We start with a dive at Citrus Ridge. Good viz and a fantastic reef.

The funniest thing happened there, but I only found out that night. I swam after a Wobbegong, filming it. On my return I saw a few Pilot Fish, and thought "poor guys, they lost their Wobby". When checking out the video in our room that night it was obvious they didn't loose their Wobby. It was lying in from of me, just centimeters away. Incredible camouflage as I didn't see it at all (and they are not tiny!).

We continue with a nice boat ride through the mangroves.

The Passage itself is a little bit of a fairground attraction. Nice to do once, but I wouldn't do it again.

Jos: 64 [min] / 25.9 [m] | Petra: 64 [min] / 24.4 [m]
Jos: 69 [min] / 14.1 [m] | Petra: 70 [min] / 14.0 [m]

Back at the resort we have a final check with Hakim. Unfortunately they didn't find the 5 pax total to join for Wayang (we couldn't understand people traveling all across the world and skip on this World Heritage site ... but we can't force them). Only Gaby, our neighbor from Germany, was okay to join. So Fam it will be then.
A lovely night dive on the House Reef, with Beto, completes the day.

Jos: 50 [min] / 16.8 [m] | Petra: skipped

December 3rd - Fam Islands

So not Wayang (and the dive sites on route), but Fam Islands. Germany (Gaby and Ralph, both traveling alone) and Austria (Winfried and Helga) join us on the boat. Our first dive is at Melissa's Garden. It is a gorgeous dive site with lots to see.

The plan was 1st dive, Fam Islands, lunch, followed by the 2nd dive. Arno decides lunch can wait. We first go to Fam and climb up the hill. Waw what a view! [one wonders how much better Wayang is... ] And immediately the 2nd dive: Anita's Garden. Again an incredibly beautiful reef. And the viz, super!

Jos: 69 [min] / 24.1 [m] | Petra: 69 [min] / 23.2 [m]
Jos: 63 [min] / 21.6 [m] | Petra: 63 [min] / 20.4 [m]

We have lunch at a local beach. The local Monitor Lizards are already waiting for us. Four show up (later a fith one joins) and they are not shy at all. A little bit too used to people for my liking as they get very close when charging for scraps being thrown.

A nice gift during our return: we spot 5 manta's feeding at the surface. We all - including the majority of the boat crew - jump in to snorkel. This never gets booring. 

December 4th - Red Bird of Paradise

4:25 is when the alarm beeps. We have planned to go bird watching and are supposed to meet Hakim at 4:50 at the restaurant. He is already waiting for us when we arrive. He wakes up Derek, who joins to watch us, and quickly arranges binoculars. After a short boat ride we arrive at the jetty of the neighboring village where bird man Nico is awaiting us.
We need to walk through the village and another 15 minutes or so through the jungle to reach the first bird spot. A kind of Cockatoos, but it's still quit dark so we can hardly see them. We can surely hear them. Now to the main attraction: Red Bird of Paradise. There is a kind of bench one can sit on and lean backwards to watch them far up in the tree. Very far up in the tree. The male birds start dancing for the (dull looking) females. Difficult to see with binoculars that are blurred (sea water entered?). That leaves the zoom on my compact camera as the only way to see them. The zoom is enough (20x optical plus 20x digital), but to keep them in the screen while they nervously jump up and down the branches, dancing, is difficult. Let alone keep them in focus. The later it gets the brighter it gets, the better we can see them.
The nearby thunder is getting loader and closing in. We need to start going, as the rain is starting. Nico asks if we want to wait, but we think we best move before it gets all wet and slippery. On our arrival in the village we are soaking wet. Despite of some problems a nice morning adventure we wouldn't have wanted to miss. Time for breakfast.

"Petra & Jos, where do you want to dive?" "Cape Kri?" "I'll be your personal guide" "Or do you want to go to Otdima?" Hakim tries to convince us to join him to go to Kri as, after two failed dives there, he wants to show why we should dive there and why it's so famous. Petra is doubting a long time, but finally she says: "Yes, let's go to Kri!".

The current on the reef is not much this time (too little?) and at the end we spot a nice Sepia - we hadn't seen one this trip yet, so a nice bonus. On our safety stop we also see some real Dories. Very good!

"Und Winfried?" "Zu viel Strömung auf Otdima. Wir sind irgendwo anders, auf die andere seite, gewezen. Saum Rif. Ach."

Jos: 67 [min] / 28.7 [m] | Petra: 67 [min] / 28.8 [m]

December 5th - Soto Ajam

Man, does time fly. We arrived at our final day already. A relax one. Some stroling on the beach. Drying our dive gear. Chatting with the dive guides (Fahmy and Vernando). A bit of sleep. Lunch: Yes, Soto Ajam - lekker!
We repeat the morning in the afternoon. Stamp the logbooks. O, I need to take my medication. I left it with them (needs to be in the fridge) almost 2 weeks ago. Arno gets it from the kitchen and I am pleasantly surprised to see it was still okay.
Time to pack. Tonight, dinner with dancing and music with the locals from the nearby village. Tomorrow wake-up at 6:00, we're leaving at 7:00.

December 6th - The Big Trip Home

Full boat to Sorong (Ralph, Gaby, Helga, Winfried and Darwin, Australia: Tracy, Allen, Matthiah and Brad). First stop at the hotel, and then to the airport. A quick checking, but only to Jakarta. We say goodbye to Darwin (they have planned an extra few days in Manadoo) and fly together with Ralph (he sits next to me) to Makasar.
At the transfer desk we ask if we can check in for Amsterdam. "Yes, no problem. We'll also re-label your luggage directly to Amsterdam, no need to re-check in Jakarta". Great, but I think we better check to make sure. To the lounge now and wait for a big 6 hours before our flight to Jakarta leaves.
In Jakarta we watched other peoples luggage passing by on the belt for a good 45 minutes. At that time all had been collected and ours didn't pass by, so it must have been checked through as they said in Makasar. Arriving in Amsterdam confirmed that. It was one of the first on the belt. Perfect. Which also describes this holiday very well: Perfect.

Ooh Solley Solley .... don't ask my why, but it had been in my head for almost 2 weeks.

It was a sad goodbye from Raja Ampat - as good memories always are.