Friday, June 14, 2019

Monk Haven Manor


Ibis - June 13

Smooth drive to Amsterdam - Schiphol. We, again, just missed the bus to the hotel. Good to arrive back in the bird wallpaper room.

Green Bridge - June 14

Same guy at the Europe Car desk. Not so chatty as last time. To busy to sell some upgrades I guess. And also not needed. A brand new Vauxhall Crossland X. Wow.
First stop Saundersfoot for a pint and fish and chips. Than on to find the Green Bridge. Good I had checked Google Maps at home as I immediately recognised where we had to turn in. And yes! It was open! It's behind a tank range, so if there is a military practice then you can't go there.
We first see the Stack Rocks, full of Guillemots. Petra is jumping up and down of excitement. After a bunch of pictures we walk on to the famous Green Bridge of Wales. Such a wonderful scenery. 




Time for our last stint, to our BnB. We are welcomed by Jo. Up to "our" room. So good be back.
For dinner we decide to go to the Brook Inn. Just a smile bite. We pick the soup of the day: carrot and coriander, with Welsh Cedar on the side and a pint of Welsh lager. A very very good choice. Time to tuck in. Tomorrow we hope to see the Puffins. Fingers crossed.

Skomer - June 15


The sun is out, the sky is blue. No idea when this happened as predictions weren't that great. It's a lovely day. I checked Twitter: boats to Skomer are running! And we have red tickets. The first boat out. Yes.
Already on the boat we see the Puffins. Also Gannetts in the sky. Guillemots and Razorbills on the cliffs. Skomer is a dream. Off we go, to the Wick. And again we find no reason to go anywhere else .... maybe next time 😀




We manage to squeeze in at The Griffin in Dale for a quick and good dinner. I tried a Welsh Ale. Not bad at all.
As the weather is looking doubtful tomorrow we decide not to go back to Skomer, but keep the memory of the brilliant day today was. We plan to sleep longer and go to Marloes Sands. Low tide at 12 something.

Marloes - June 16

After breakfast I try to arrange the boat trip for Tuesday morning. Bummer. Voyages of Discovery doesn't run Monday nor Tuesday morning, the guys from Dale, the company that took us to Skomer yesterday, will only run the cruise on Monday - which is the regular boat, not the RIB, and Falcon didn't pick up, but I left a voicemail.
Off to Marloes Sands it is. We take the red marked path, passing by Runwayskiln where we plan to have lunch, on through the fields to the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. We go to the right until 'Rainy Rock', and than turn around to end up on the beach around low tide. Man, this is a gorgeous beach. Even without the sun being out like last year.




On our return we walk in to the Runwayskiln. Full and a lot of screaming children. No, not us. We walk back to the car and drive to St. Ishmael's to have a good lunch at the Brook Inn. Maybe back for a pint and a soup tonight. We'll see.
( yes we did 😉)

Lilly Ponds - June 17

No plans for today, so we finally decide to return to the Green Bridge. But first I try to book a boat trip for tomorrow, as Falcon indicated they only leave at 10:30, which is way too late for us. I first try Dale for a Grassholm cruise. "Sorry, we don't run any boats tomorrow". Second try is Thousand Islands in St. David's. They do have a trip at 9, which I can pre-cooked, but they need some more guests to confirm it. I provide my credit card details and agree to call them around 5, in case I they don't come back to me before, to check if the trip is on.
Now, off to the Green Bridge. Just before we arrive we decide to go to Stackpole and stop at Barafundle Bay Beach. Lovely place but the weather is not so good. Drizzle turns into rain.
We decide to drive around to Bosherton to stop at Lilly Ponds. Good choice as this is a beautiful place. The path around also takes us to the very nice Broadhaven Beach, with a view on Church Rock. Pity for the rain ....
Finally we go to the Green Bridge. Yes, it's open! So nice to see all the Guillemots and Razorbills on the rocks. And the bridge is still adorable too.
Hungry. Still didn't touch our packed lunch. Hmmm. Let's go to Little Haven and have something simple there. Almost 45 to drive ... . Just before Pembroke we decide to stop there and grab something. In the pub I get a call from Thousand Islands. Yes. The trip is on! Diner is served. Not brilliant, but good enough. Back to Monk Haven it is. A long, but very nice day!

Thousand Islands - June 18

Alarm at 6:00. Yes, ridiculously early for a holiday. But we're on a mission: boat trip. First pack and checkout. A last hug from Jo and we leave the ever so lovely Monk Haven Manor BnB. Don't worry Pomba, we'll be back ! St. Justinian's is only 20 Miles, but it will take almost an hour to get there. As always we're way too early. Surprised to see Voyages of Discovery are also running?! Ah. They head for Skomer. Maybe the charter they told me about. Any way.
There is six on the boat only. We first go to Grassholm, to see the Gannetts and the Seals. From there to the Light House, looking for Dolphins and more. Unfortunately the 'more' isn't there, neither are the Dolphins. Long way back to Ramsey Island. It's clearing up a bit, and all of us are starring over the sea. But luck is not with us today. It's only just before we are back that we get a quick glance of some Porpoise. At least we say them. Any way, it's always nice to be at sea and try to spot stuff. Even if you don't see all. At least we saw many Puffins. And also some Manx Shearwaters. The ones that sleep on Skomer and stay at sea all day.



Time to go. Two-and-a-half hours to the airport are smooth, except for the final 4 Miles or so.
We're now in the plane, almost ready to land at Schiphol. From there another two-and-a-half hours drive home. Back to Towser, Morris and Finnley.


Tuesday, March 5, 2019

To the end of the world ...

The dream has always been there. Sometimes big and predominant. Sometimes small and dormant. But since I was a little boy nature caught my attention. And so did the polar areas. After having been to Svalbard the dream of doing the ultimate, once in a lifetime, trip resurfaced. Dreaming and thinking about it since. Understanding that my wife, Petra, has the same feelings. Starting the planning. Selecting. Researching. We are now at the point that we are very close to making a decision. From what I can say now it will be below trip. Once booked I will confirm.

CONFIRMED > WE'RE GOING!

The trip is called "Antarctica - Polar Circle" [Crossing the Polar Circle], on the Oceanwide Expeditions' MV Plancius.

Trip date: February 16th to 27th, 2020



This Polar Circle and Antarctic Peninsula cruise passes through waters travelled by Humpback, Minke and Fin whales. Anchoring in various spots around the region, the expedition offers the chance to hike, kayak, and dive in the iceberg-heavy waters.

Day 1: End of the world, start of a journey
Your voyage begins where the world drops off. Ushuaia, Argentina, reputed to be the southernmost city on the planet, is located on the far southern tip of South America. Starting in the afternoon, you embark from this small resort town on Tierra del Fuego, nicknamed “The End of the World,” and sail the mountain-fringed Beagle Channel for the remainder of the evening. 

Day 2 - 3: Path of the polar explorers
Over the next two days on the Drake Passage, you enjoy some of the same experiences encountered by the great polar explorers who first charted these regions: cool salt breezes, rolling seas, maybe even a fin whale spouting up sea spray. After passing the Antarctic Convergence – Antarctica’s natural boundary, formed when north-flowing cold waters collide with warmer sub-Antarctic seas – you are in the circum-Antarctic upwelling zone. Not only does the marine life change, the avian life changes too. Wandering albatrosses, grey-headed albatrosses, black-browed albatrosses, light-mantled sooty albatrosses, cape pigeons, southern fulmars, Wilson’s storm petrels, blue petrels, and Antarctic petrels are a few of the birds you might see.

Day 4 - 9: Sights of late summer Antarctica
Options for Antarctic Peninsula activities are many, and no less great during the late summer. Humpback whales are prolific in this region, gorging themselves on krill before their migration north. The penguin chicks are also fledging, stirring up activity on the beaches while sleek leopard seals lie in wait, poised to attack the less fortunate ones.

Sites for your Antarctic adventures may include: 

Livingston Island – Here you find a wide variety of gentoo and chinstrap penguins on Hannah Point, as well as southern giant petrels and elephant seals hauling out onto the beach. 

Deception Island – Actually a subducted crater, this island opens into the sea and creates a natural harbor for the ship. Hot springs, an abandoned whaling station, and multiple bird species – cape petrels, kelp gulls, brown and south polar skuas, and Antarctic terns – can be seen here. Wilson’s storm petrels and black-bellied storm petrels also nest in the ruins of the whaling station in Whalers Bay. 

Cuverville Island – A small precipitous island nestled between the mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula and Rongé Island, Cuverville houses a large colony of gentoo penguins and breeding pairs of brown skuas. 

Neko Harbour – An epic landscape of mammoth glaciers and endless wind-carved snow, Neko Harbour offers opportunities for a Zodiac cruise and landing that afford the closest views of the surrounding alpine peaks. You might also be able to set foot on the continent here. 

Paradise Bay – You could take a Zodiac cruise in these sprawling, ice-flecked waters, where you have a good chance of seeing humpback and minke whales. 

Pléneau & Petermann Islands – If the ice allows it, you may sail through the Lemaire Channel in search of Adélie penguins and blue-eyed shags. There’s also a good chance you’ll encounter humpback and minke whales as well as leopard seals. 

Crystal Sound – Your journey takes you south along the Argentine Islands to this ice-packed body of water, and from here across the Polar Circle in the morning. 

Detaille Island – You may make a landing at an abandoned British research station here, taking in the island’s lofty mountains and imposing glaciers. 

Fish Islands – Further north you encounter one of the southernmost Adélie penguin and blue-eyed shag colonies in the Antarctic Peninsula. 

Melchior Islands – These islands offer a beautiful landscape rich with icebergs. Leopard seals, crabeater seals, and whales are found here, and there are excellent opportunities for kayaking and diving. 

Conditions on the Drake Passage determine the exact time of departure.

Day 10 - 11: Familiar seas, familiar friends
Your return voyage is far from lonely. While crossing the Drake, you’re again greeted by the vast array of seabirds remembered from the passage south. But they seem a little more familiar to you now, and you to them.

Day 12: There and back again
Every adventure, no matter how grand, must eventually come to an end. It’s now time to disembark in Ushuaia, but with memories that will accompany you wherever your next adventure lies.



Thursday, November 29, 2018

Veligandu

We never had packed so light for a diving holiday. Wonder what we have forgotten. We left home early laundry still in the dryer. At 15:30 we're already at Frankfurt Airport.
[the 1st movie from Nathalie, our cat nanny, is already dropping in. Towser making his usual "proting" sound and Maja ignoring her. Looks good.]
The Lufthansa flight is good. Lots of leg room, chairs decline well and the food is okay (served a little late though). We both could sleep a few hours.




November 29 - Veligandu

During landing the sky doesn't look to good. Clouds starting at 10km up to almost touching the sea surface at the bottom. The strip is soaking wet. We're in the launch now. Our water-plane is due to leave at 12:00. Looking at the clocks in the lounge, each for each resort, it's one hour later at Veligandu. So we'll be missing our lunch.
At 12:30 the little plane leaves. We had hardly left the harbour, still on the water, when we turn around. The radio malfunctions. Back at the airport a downpour starts and the airport is closed (no visibility). Finally, at 15:45, we fly out.
When we arrive at Veligandu we're told that we're upgraded to a Water Villa for 2 nights. Sorry? No! A) It's no upgrade as when we booked it was the same price. B) We explicitly booked a Beach Villa, as we like that much better. But after them saying "sorry" for the tenth time, we understood that they we're out of options and we had to accept the stay at a Water Villa, at least for the 1st night.
We checked in at the Dive Shop. All quick and smooth. Seems they're not too busy. Quick tour around the island. The other side is the wind side, has a smaller beach and the sand is hard with lots of coral pieces. No, than we better opt for an attached Jacuzzi Beach Villa at this side. We're told it will be #180 and we'll be moved at about 11:30.
Dinner time. Although very good we didn't discover the extra star compared to the 4 star resorts we visited in the past. Back at the room the door doesn't open. Argh. Luckily Said from room service can fix this rapidly. A bottle of cold champagne is brought to the room. I'm sure that will taste nice still tomorrow. Time to sleep.




November 30 - And the Smile is Back

Petra starts to doubt whether we should change. The view from the Water Villa is stunning and the Stingrays that swim past are so lovely. When we return from the - delicious - breakfast, we see the luggage from #180 is being carried away. "Can we have a quick look inside?", we ask. Sure! Yes! This is exactly what we want 😀. Quickly pack all our stuff and we're off to the Dive Shop.



First dive: Rasdhoo. Our guide is Nooh. O? So we'll have a private guide. Nice. Petra has issues clearing her ears. Than I start to feel my ears. Also my goggles fog up all the time. But than, who cares. The reef is beautiful. Black Tip Reef Sharks that come so close they almost bump in to you. Napoleon. Turtles. Tuna. Everything! 50 Minutes later I'm out of air. What a brilliant dive.
Back on the boat we check my air with the gauge from the guide. 65 Bar still, in stead of the 40 Bar mine reads. So next dives I can start the safety stop at 30 Bar. [and buy a new gauge back home!]










Back to move rooms and unpack. Finally holiday. The local birds are calling (gloog gloog gloog). The water chicks are running past our veranda. The Baby Sharks cruise at the water front. In the distance we see dolphins. No, the dorsal fin is way too big, these are Pilot Whales! And it's only just lunch time.
// Fast forward //
After dinner, when we sign for the drinks. "Wait, I have something for you" O? A little later the waiter returns to our table with a cake box. Inside a nice chocolate cake "Welcome Back". "You have been to Veligandu before?" No, this is our first time. "Have you been to another CCR Resort before?" Yes, Vilamendhoo and Kuredu. "Ah, that must be it. They always do this for guests that have been to CCR Resorts before" Okay? Nice and light cake by the way, even Petra wanted a small piece.

December 1 - Madivaru Corner

If there was one reason we wanted to return, after 14 years, to the Rasdhoo Atoll, it was Madivaru Corner. But, that was long time ago during our first Diving Holiday. We hadn't seen anything yet. Today we'll be diving here again. Ramon from Zürich will be our guide. The visibility isn't that great, but that doesn't matter, this is still a great dive spot. The Eagle Rays almost bite you in the noose, that how close they come. And the reef is gorgeous, full with fish. After 2 dives we have seen more beauty, sharks and rays up close, as we did during the whole South Trip we did in March!







Second stop: Manta Point. The ask all divers on the boat whether we really want to give it a try, as they haven't seen any manta's recently. Doesn't matter, all want to give it a try. Steve and Petra first do a little "Manta Dance" for good luck. And that did work. The manta passes by, briefly. From there on a nice and relaxing dive, with the song of dolphins in the background. Unfortunately they didn't show themselves.
The weather keeps improving. Blue sky, scattered clouds. The wind lays down. Picture perfect. We enjoy the rest of the day on the veranda of our Sunset Villa.




December 2 - Full Day

[writing this I am suddenly reminded of our cat, Loeki, passing away during last years holiday 😢]
A boat trip to the North Ari Atoll to dive Maayaa Thila, Hafza Thila and Bathala Thila. Our guide is Pascal from Freiburg (CH). A weird guy. The last time around we dived these spots, on a full day trip from Vilamendhoo, it was quite disappointing. Bad visibility, no coral and hardly any sharks. And that didn't improve over time. Only the last dive site, Bathala Thila, had some decent corals. Unfortunately that's where things got bad with our guide. During the first two dives we alreadt had some communication issues. During the last dive it went worse. We had just arrived at a nice patch, our guide wanted to descent. Somewhat later we found another nice spot, but he insisted to move on and cross over to the next reef. When he couldn't find it he aborted the dive and we all had to go up. Out of the water he first claimed it was due to me being low on air (?). Somewhat later he confessed he couldn't find the next reef. All in all it was a nice day being on the boat.
[the new flip filter on my GoPro breaks over ... ]


December 3 - Flying

The Live Aboards are still around, so better to not do Madivaru Corner today. We are goint to the Caves, Remo (not Ramon?) is our guide today. Steve and Brian, two Britons, join. Nice and easy dive. We see a lot of nice stuff. Second dive is Rasdhoo Reef. Thomas says the current is strong, and yes, it is. The visibility is not too good either. But the reef is beautiful and we see a lot of sharks. The current made us work hard. We pop up three (!) dive sites further, in from of Kuramathi.
[Later that day we talk to some who dived the afternoon. conditions had been even worse. Beyond funny.]
Tonight Repeaters Cocktail and a video presentation from the dive shop. We'll see.
Hmmm. We watched the Repeaters Cocktail from a distance. Ten staff mingling with ten guests. That looks more like work than fun. Next to that the wind picked up and Petra doesn't like that, especially when she is wearing her hair loose. The video starts at 21:30. Way too late. We're tired and have to get up early tomorrow morning.

December 4 - Last Day Diving

The plan was to go to Madi Gaa, Manta Point, and something nice afterwards. But as it was our last day diving we asked if we could return to Madivaru Corner. Eventually that became the dive plan for the day. Whether it was the best plan, we'll never know. We hardly left when I noticed I forgotten our dive computers. STOP STOP Petra shouts. We return and I quickly run to our Villa to fetch them Luckily the closest room to the dive shop. I think half the people on the boat didn't even notice what happened. There still many Live Aboards around. Also the Aggressor II is there. Their Dhoni is at the dive spot. So are pretty much all the other Live Aboards Dhoni's. Good timing. They all surface just as we arrive.
Despite the horror stories from yesterday there was no current at all today. Pity. A little current is always better. 


Second dive Madi Gaa. After doing the check dive, Nooh, our guide today, and Remo climb back on the boat. "Little current, 20-30 divers and no manta's. Let's go to The North Channel". Another nice and relaxed dive. At the end the manta swims by to wave us goodbye. Short, but very nice indeed.



[Steve: 45x Maldives, 29x Veligandu. This is the best compromise for us: Good food, small resort, good diving and nice snorkeling for Deb (his wife)]

December 5 - Snorkelling

Yesterday evening, on our way to dinner, the weather was lovely, so why not do the beach dinner the still owned us (promised when we arrive and didn't get the room we booked). "I am sorry, fully booked. Maybe tomorrow. You can arrange it at the Main Restaurant. They will come to you". Okay. Only one option to choose from, the simplest one they had on offer: Tuna Wasabi for starter, Prawn, Tuna and Red Snapper for main, chefs desert. $60/couple. For Petra they could do a fruit platter as desert. Okay, let's try that.

A long sleep. Breakfast including bubbles this time. And than snorkelling. I take the GoPro. Petra takes the TG-5 for her first time. Nice reef. Turtle. Big Black Tip Reef Shark. Many colourfull fish. As the sky turned dark we decided to get out and go to the room. When I check the video's I made they all looked horrible (what's new). Petra's pictures on the other hand were stunning (yep).



During lunch we decided that the Beach Dinner wasn't what we wanted. The rain is getting worse. And having a beach dinner inside is not what we wanted. Reception tells us we can decide between 5 and 6. Maybe it will get better. But that the thunderstorm takes of.
We go to the dive shop to stamp our logbooks. Nooh is at the shop. He had found our SMB's. No idea where I left those. For sure I hadn't seen them nor thought about them. It's 18:15 and it's still raining. Finally we go to reception and cancel the dinner. A little rest and start to pack our luggage.

Later that evening, when we check for our water plane flight time and bill settlement, the receptionist shoves a letter under our nose. "Can you sign that we have compensated you for the issue when you arrived?" No, not in a million years!

December 6 - Eagle Rays

Our flight out is only at 9:00 o'clock.So no stress. Waking up slowly and packing the last things before we go for breakfast. When we arrive in the restaurant for breakfast, we see Deborah, Steve's wife, running towards the shoreline. Petra runs after her. A group of Eagle Rays passes by at an arm length away in the shallows. 4 Big ones and a baby she tells me enthusiastically when she returns to the table. At 8:30 sharp a knock on the door for picking up the luggage. After checking the room for a last time we stroll over the beach toward reception to do the final check-out. "Your plane is 15-20 minutes delayed". That means at least half an hour, so we stroll on towards the end of the island. Enjoying the last bits of sun.

It was tight. A little bit stressful. But we made it. Row 38 in the middle appears to be bit more cramped than Row 39 at the window. I thought it was extremely spacious on the outbound flight - must be that plane tapering in towards the end.

Another 9:45 hours and we'll be landing in Frankfurt. Tonight we'll be back home with our two fur balls, time to start dreaming about our next destination.

PS: We still don't get it why Veligandhoo has one more star than Vilamendhoo or Kuredu.