We met Jolanda and Bé in February 2012 at Deep Blue View, Bonaire, and stayed in contact through Facebook ever since. Last year we had a lovely afternoon with them at the Onze Lieve Vrouw Plein terraces in our home town Maastricht. It must have been around that time that we found it that going to Antarctica was a shared dream. They have planned a big South America trip, which is topped off by an Antarctica trip (they will be on the M/V Ushuaia, on the Weddell Sea Quest), arriving back in Ushuaia just a week and a bit before we head out if I am not mistaken.
In preparation and to log the trip they have started a blog:
Saturday, August 3, 2019
Friday, June 14, 2019
Monk Haven Manor
Ibis - June 13
Smooth drive to Amsterdam - Schiphol. We, again, just missed the bus to the hotel. Good to arrive back in the bird wallpaper room.
Green Bridge - June 14
Same guy at the Europe Car desk. Not so chatty as last time. To busy to sell some upgrades I guess. And also not needed. A brand new Vauxhall Crossland X. Wow.
First stop Saundersfoot for a pint and fish and chips. Than on to find the Green Bridge. Good I had checked Google Maps at home as I immediately recognised where we had to turn in. And yes! It was open! It's behind a tank range, so if there is a military practice then you can't go there.
We first see the Stack Rocks, full of Guillemots. Petra is jumping up and down of excitement. After a bunch of pictures we walk on to the famous Green Bridge of Wales. Such a wonderful scenery.
Time for our last stint, to our BnB. We are welcomed by Jo. Up to "our" room. So good be back.
For dinner we decide to go to the Brook Inn. Just a smile bite. We pick the soup of the day: carrot and coriander, with Welsh Cedar on the side and a pint of Welsh lager. A very very good choice. Time to tuck in. Tomorrow we hope to see the Puffins. Fingers crossed.
First stop Saundersfoot for a pint and fish and chips. Than on to find the Green Bridge. Good I had checked Google Maps at home as I immediately recognised where we had to turn in. And yes! It was open! It's behind a tank range, so if there is a military practice then you can't go there.
We first see the Stack Rocks, full of Guillemots. Petra is jumping up and down of excitement. After a bunch of pictures we walk on to the famous Green Bridge of Wales. Such a wonderful scenery.
Time for our last stint, to our BnB. We are welcomed by Jo. Up to "our" room. So good be back.
For dinner we decide to go to the Brook Inn. Just a smile bite. We pick the soup of the day: carrot and coriander, with Welsh Cedar on the side and a pint of Welsh lager. A very very good choice. Time to tuck in. Tomorrow we hope to see the Puffins. Fingers crossed.
Skomer - June 15
The sun is out, the sky is blue. No idea when this happened as predictions weren't that great. It's a lovely day. I checked Twitter: boats to Skomer are running! And we have red tickets. The first boat out. Yes.
Already on the boat we see the Puffins. Also Gannetts in the sky. Guillemots and Razorbills on the cliffs. Skomer is a dream. Off we go, to the Wick. And again we find no reason to go anywhere else .... maybe next time 😀
We manage to squeeze in at The Griffin in Dale for a quick and good dinner. I tried a Welsh Ale. Not bad at all.
As the weather is looking doubtful tomorrow we decide not to go back to Skomer, but keep the memory of the brilliant day today was. We plan to sleep longer and go to Marloes Sands. Low tide at 12 something.
Marloes - June 16
After breakfast I try to arrange the boat trip for Tuesday morning. Bummer. Voyages of Discovery doesn't run Monday nor Tuesday morning, the guys from Dale, the company that took us to Skomer yesterday, will only run the cruise on Monday - which is the regular boat, not the RIB, and Falcon didn't pick up, but I left a voicemail.
Off to Marloes Sands it is. We take the red marked path, passing by Runwayskiln where we plan to have lunch, on through the fields to the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. We go to the right until 'Rainy Rock', and than turn around to end up on the beach around low tide. Man, this is a gorgeous beach. Even without the sun being out like last year.
On our return we walk in to the Runwayskiln. Full and a lot of screaming children. No, not us. We walk back to the car and drive to St. Ishmael's to have a good lunch at the Brook Inn. Maybe back for a pint and a soup tonight. We'll see.
( yes we did 😉)
Off to Marloes Sands it is. We take the red marked path, passing by Runwayskiln where we plan to have lunch, on through the fields to the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. We go to the right until 'Rainy Rock', and than turn around to end up on the beach around low tide. Man, this is a gorgeous beach. Even without the sun being out like last year.
On our return we walk in to the Runwayskiln. Full and a lot of screaming children. No, not us. We walk back to the car and drive to St. Ishmael's to have a good lunch at the Brook Inn. Maybe back for a pint and a soup tonight. We'll see.
( yes we did 😉)
Lilly Ponds - June 17
No plans for today, so we finally decide to return to the Green Bridge. But first I try to book a boat trip for tomorrow, as Falcon indicated they only leave at 10:30, which is way too late for us. I first try Dale for a Grassholm cruise. "Sorry, we don't run any boats tomorrow". Second try is Thousand Islands in St. David's. They do have a trip at 9, which I can pre-cooked, but they need some more guests to confirm it. I provide my credit card details and agree to call them around 5, in case I they don't come back to me before, to check if the trip is on.
Now, off to the Green Bridge. Just before we arrive we decide to go to Stackpole and stop at Barafundle Bay Beach. Lovely place but the weather is not so good. Drizzle turns into rain.
We decide to drive around to Bosherton to stop at Lilly Ponds. Good choice as this is a beautiful place. The path around also takes us to the very nice Broadhaven Beach, with a view on Church Rock. Pity for the rain ....
Finally we go to the Green Bridge. Yes, it's open! So nice to see all the Guillemots and Razorbills on the rocks. And the bridge is still adorable too.
Hungry. Still didn't touch our packed lunch. Hmmm. Let's go to Little Haven and have something simple there. Almost 45 to drive ... . Just before Pembroke we decide to stop there and grab something. In the pub I get a call from Thousand Islands. Yes. The trip is on! Diner is served. Not brilliant, but good enough. Back to Monk Haven it is. A long, but very nice day!
Now, off to the Green Bridge. Just before we arrive we decide to go to Stackpole and stop at Barafundle Bay Beach. Lovely place but the weather is not so good. Drizzle turns into rain.
We decide to drive around to Bosherton to stop at Lilly Ponds. Good choice as this is a beautiful place. The path around also takes us to the very nice Broadhaven Beach, with a view on Church Rock. Pity for the rain ....
Finally we go to the Green Bridge. Yes, it's open! So nice to see all the Guillemots and Razorbills on the rocks. And the bridge is still adorable too.
Hungry. Still didn't touch our packed lunch. Hmmm. Let's go to Little Haven and have something simple there. Almost 45 to drive ... . Just before Pembroke we decide to stop there and grab something. In the pub I get a call from Thousand Islands. Yes. The trip is on! Diner is served. Not brilliant, but good enough. Back to Monk Haven it is. A long, but very nice day!
Thousand Islands - June 18
Alarm at 6:00. Yes, ridiculously early for a holiday. But we're on a mission: boat trip. First pack and checkout. A last hug from Jo and we leave the ever so lovely Monk Haven Manor BnB. Don't worry Pomba, we'll be back ! St. Justinian's is only 20 Miles, but it will take almost an hour to get there. As always we're way too early. Surprised to see Voyages of Discovery are also running?! Ah. They head for Skomer. Maybe the charter they told me about. Any way.
There is six on the boat only. We first go to Grassholm, to see the Gannetts and the Seals. From there to the Light House, looking for Dolphins and more. Unfortunately the 'more' isn't there, neither are the Dolphins. Long way back to Ramsey Island. It's clearing up a bit, and all of us are starring over the sea. But luck is not with us today. It's only just before we are back that we get a quick glance of some Porpoise. At least we say them. Any way, it's always nice to be at sea and try to spot stuff. Even if you don't see all. At least we saw many Puffins. And also some Manx Shearwaters. The ones that sleep on Skomer and stay at sea all day.
Time to go. Two-and-a-half hours to the airport are smooth, except for the final 4 Miles or so.
There is six on the boat only. We first go to Grassholm, to see the Gannetts and the Seals. From there to the Light House, looking for Dolphins and more. Unfortunately the 'more' isn't there, neither are the Dolphins. Long way back to Ramsey Island. It's clearing up a bit, and all of us are starring over the sea. But luck is not with us today. It's only just before we are back that we get a quick glance of some Porpoise. At least we say them. Any way, it's always nice to be at sea and try to spot stuff. Even if you don't see all. At least we saw many Puffins. And also some Manx Shearwaters. The ones that sleep on Skomer and stay at sea all day.
Time to go. Two-and-a-half hours to the airport are smooth, except for the final 4 Miles or so.
We're now in the plane, almost ready to land at Schiphol. From there another two-and-a-half hours drive home. Back to Towser, Morris and Finnley.
Tuesday, March 5, 2019
To the end of the world ...
The dream has always been there. Sometimes big and predominant. Sometimes small and dormant. But since I was a little boy nature caught my attention. And so did the polar areas. After having been to Svalbard the dream of doing the ultimate, once in a lifetime, trip resurfaced. Dreaming and thinking about it since. Understanding that my wife, Petra, has the same feelings. Starting the planning. Selecting. Researching. We are now at the point that we are very close to making a decision. From what I can say now it will be below trip. Once booked I will confirm.
CONFIRMED > WE'RE GOING!
The trip is called "Antarctica - Polar Circle" [Crossing the Polar Circle], on the Oceanwide Expeditions' MV Plancius.
Trip date: February 16th to 27th, 2020
This Polar Circle and Antarctic Peninsula cruise passes through waters travelled by Humpback, Minke and Fin whales. Anchoring in various spots around the region, the expedition offers the chance to hike, kayak, and dive in the iceberg-heavy waters.
Day 1: End of the world, start of a journey
Your voyage begins where the world drops off. Ushuaia, Argentina, reputed to be the southernmost city on the planet, is located on the far southern tip of South America. Starting in the afternoon, you embark from this small resort town on Tierra del Fuego, nicknamed “The End of the World,” and sail the mountain-fringed Beagle Channel for the remainder of the evening.
Day 2 - 3: Path of the polar explorers
Over the next two days on the Drake Passage, you enjoy some of the same experiences encountered by the great polar explorers who first charted these regions: cool salt breezes, rolling seas, maybe even a fin whale spouting up sea spray. After passing the Antarctic Convergence – Antarctica’s natural boundary, formed when north-flowing cold waters collide with warmer sub-Antarctic seas – you are in the circum-Antarctic upwelling zone. Not only does the marine life change, the avian life changes too. Wandering albatrosses, grey-headed albatrosses, black-browed albatrosses, light-mantled sooty albatrosses, cape pigeons, southern fulmars, Wilson’s storm petrels, blue petrels, and Antarctic petrels are a few of the birds you might see.
Day 4 - 9: Sights of late summer Antarctica
Options for Antarctic Peninsula activities are many, and no less great during the late summer. Humpback whales are prolific in this region, gorging themselves on krill before their migration north. The penguin chicks are also fledging, stirring up activity on the beaches while sleek leopard seals lie in wait, poised to attack the less fortunate ones.
Sites for your Antarctic adventures may include:
Livingston Island – Here you find a wide variety of gentoo and chinstrap penguins on Hannah Point, as well as southern giant petrels and elephant seals hauling out onto the beach.
Deception Island – Actually a subducted crater, this island opens into the sea and creates a natural harbor for the ship. Hot springs, an abandoned whaling station, and multiple bird species – cape petrels, kelp gulls, brown and south polar skuas, and Antarctic terns – can be seen here. Wilson’s storm petrels and black-bellied storm petrels also nest in the ruins of the whaling station in Whalers Bay.
Cuverville Island – A small precipitous island nestled between the mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula and Rongé Island, Cuverville houses a large colony of gentoo penguins and breeding pairs of brown skuas.
Neko Harbour – An epic landscape of mammoth glaciers and endless wind-carved snow, Neko Harbour offers opportunities for a Zodiac cruise and landing that afford the closest views of the surrounding alpine peaks. You might also be able to set foot on the continent here.
Paradise Bay – You could take a Zodiac cruise in these sprawling, ice-flecked waters, where you have a good chance of seeing humpback and minke whales.
Pléneau & Petermann Islands – If the ice allows it, you may sail through the Lemaire Channel in search of Adélie penguins and blue-eyed shags. There’s also a good chance you’ll encounter humpback and minke whales as well as leopard seals.
Crystal Sound – Your journey takes you south along the Argentine Islands to this ice-packed body of water, and from here across the Polar Circle in the morning.
Detaille Island – You may make a landing at an abandoned British research station here, taking in the island’s lofty mountains and imposing glaciers.
Fish Islands – Further north you encounter one of the southernmost Adélie penguin and blue-eyed shag colonies in the Antarctic Peninsula.
Melchior Islands – These islands offer a beautiful landscape rich with icebergs. Leopard seals, crabeater seals, and whales are found here, and there are excellent opportunities for kayaking and diving.
Conditions on the Drake Passage determine the exact time of departure.
Day 10 - 11: Familiar seas, familiar friends
Your return voyage is far from lonely. While crossing the Drake, you’re again greeted by the vast array of seabirds remembered from the passage south. But they seem a little more familiar to you now, and you to them.
Day 12: There and back again
Every adventure, no matter how grand, must eventually come to an end. It’s now time to disembark in Ushuaia, but with memories that will accompany you wherever your next adventure lies.
CONFIRMED > WE'RE GOING!
The trip is called "Antarctica - Polar Circle" [Crossing the Polar Circle], on the Oceanwide Expeditions' MV Plancius.
Trip date: February 16th to 27th, 2020
This Polar Circle and Antarctic Peninsula cruise passes through waters travelled by Humpback, Minke and Fin whales. Anchoring in various spots around the region, the expedition offers the chance to hike, kayak, and dive in the iceberg-heavy waters.
Day 1: End of the world, start of a journey
Your voyage begins where the world drops off. Ushuaia, Argentina, reputed to be the southernmost city on the planet, is located on the far southern tip of South America. Starting in the afternoon, you embark from this small resort town on Tierra del Fuego, nicknamed “The End of the World,” and sail the mountain-fringed Beagle Channel for the remainder of the evening.
Day 2 - 3: Path of the polar explorers
Over the next two days on the Drake Passage, you enjoy some of the same experiences encountered by the great polar explorers who first charted these regions: cool salt breezes, rolling seas, maybe even a fin whale spouting up sea spray. After passing the Antarctic Convergence – Antarctica’s natural boundary, formed when north-flowing cold waters collide with warmer sub-Antarctic seas – you are in the circum-Antarctic upwelling zone. Not only does the marine life change, the avian life changes too. Wandering albatrosses, grey-headed albatrosses, black-browed albatrosses, light-mantled sooty albatrosses, cape pigeons, southern fulmars, Wilson’s storm petrels, blue petrels, and Antarctic petrels are a few of the birds you might see.
Day 4 - 9: Sights of late summer Antarctica
Options for Antarctic Peninsula activities are many, and no less great during the late summer. Humpback whales are prolific in this region, gorging themselves on krill before their migration north. The penguin chicks are also fledging, stirring up activity on the beaches while sleek leopard seals lie in wait, poised to attack the less fortunate ones.
Sites for your Antarctic adventures may include:
Livingston Island – Here you find a wide variety of gentoo and chinstrap penguins on Hannah Point, as well as southern giant petrels and elephant seals hauling out onto the beach.
Deception Island – Actually a subducted crater, this island opens into the sea and creates a natural harbor for the ship. Hot springs, an abandoned whaling station, and multiple bird species – cape petrels, kelp gulls, brown and south polar skuas, and Antarctic terns – can be seen here. Wilson’s storm petrels and black-bellied storm petrels also nest in the ruins of the whaling station in Whalers Bay.
Cuverville Island – A small precipitous island nestled between the mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula and Rongé Island, Cuverville houses a large colony of gentoo penguins and breeding pairs of brown skuas.
Neko Harbour – An epic landscape of mammoth glaciers and endless wind-carved snow, Neko Harbour offers opportunities for a Zodiac cruise and landing that afford the closest views of the surrounding alpine peaks. You might also be able to set foot on the continent here.
Paradise Bay – You could take a Zodiac cruise in these sprawling, ice-flecked waters, where you have a good chance of seeing humpback and minke whales.
Pléneau & Petermann Islands – If the ice allows it, you may sail through the Lemaire Channel in search of Adélie penguins and blue-eyed shags. There’s also a good chance you’ll encounter humpback and minke whales as well as leopard seals.
Crystal Sound – Your journey takes you south along the Argentine Islands to this ice-packed body of water, and from here across the Polar Circle in the morning.
Detaille Island – You may make a landing at an abandoned British research station here, taking in the island’s lofty mountains and imposing glaciers.
Fish Islands – Further north you encounter one of the southernmost Adélie penguin and blue-eyed shag colonies in the Antarctic Peninsula.
Melchior Islands – These islands offer a beautiful landscape rich with icebergs. Leopard seals, crabeater seals, and whales are found here, and there are excellent opportunities for kayaking and diving.
Conditions on the Drake Passage determine the exact time of departure.
Day 10 - 11: Familiar seas, familiar friends
Your return voyage is far from lonely. While crossing the Drake, you’re again greeted by the vast array of seabirds remembered from the passage south. But they seem a little more familiar to you now, and you to them.
Day 12: There and back again
Every adventure, no matter how grand, must eventually come to an end. It’s now time to disembark in Ushuaia, but with memories that will accompany you wherever your next adventure lies.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)