Sunday, August 11, 2019

Cliffs & Castles, Seals & Gannets


August 8 - The Amsterdamswaterleidingduinen

Towser, Morris and Finnley waved us goodbye. The road trip is about to start Petra cried out, after we left Maastricht. We are going to watch Gannets in South Scotland. But first we will spend 2 nights at the coast. BnB De Vogelensangh is where we ‘ll stay. Nice restaurant and a nice room. Reminiscent of the Sterrenberg, but different and much smaller.
After a short rest after the long drive, we go to the Amsterdamswaterleidingduinen, just a stone's throw away, to take a picture of the fox. They are often seen here and seem to be rather tame. "The" place where the foxes can be spot is a good 2 km walk. Along the way we enjoy the beautiful nature and the many Fallow Deer, which are not shy and very plenty. It is as if we are in India (but without the tigers).
When we arrive at "the" place we see a number of people. We ask if the foxes are here. "He was just sitting here, but then the forester came and he was quickly gone again." Where should we search? "We are going that way, you can come along". A man and a woman, both a bit strange, but nice. We follow them. "We are going up here, they are usually there". Petra turns around before we walk into the bushes. "And what about this one?" She says. The fox was already following us. You are not allowed to feed them the sign read, but it soon became clear why the fox was following us. Well, for this one time then. And the photos are beautiful.

Another 2 km and then we are at the sea. The weather is beautiful. And will be bad tomorrow, so enjoy it now. A nice snack and a drink, and then 5 km back. A quick drive to Zandvoort to see the sun sink in the sea. When taking pictures I don't pay attention and scoop my good shoes full of water. We share portion of Kibbeling (fried battered chunks of fish, mostly cod) and call it a night. We are both very tired, but it was a wonderful day. 

August 9 - Haarlem

Bad weather today. Sleep in. Because breakfast is only served from 10 a.m., perhaps a little too long. The breakfast was delicious.
To Haarlem. Petra had discovered a nice shop there, so we’re having a look. Very cozy town by the way. Now back for the siesta.
What do we do? It seems to stay dry. Well, let's go back to the AWD. Less than 10 minutes later we are in the car. We walk the path towards the Duizendmeterweg. After a while we see fallow deer on the left and right. When we arrive at the "fox spot" we see that we are not alone. A man, head to toe dressed in white, with white hair and a white beard *. And a couple with a camera. And yes, the fox is already showing itself. "We have been waiting here for 4 hours, and now you and the fox suddenly shows itself!". They take 3 photos and are gone ?? !! We go into the bushes and up the hill. Hey, another fox. Very funny.


Time to go back and eat something. Conveniently at De Vogelensangh. They’re almost full. Good that I called to make reservations.
Another beautiful day. Time to crawl under the wool.
* Petra had already seen this striking appearance in Zandvoort yesterday.

August 10 - DFDS

It looks like Elly's flight will be alright, only half an hour delay. First packing, everything in the car and the key in the letterbox. Have breakfast at La Place in Haarlem. Excellent breakfast and very cheap. Then to Schiphol to pick up Elly.
We didn’t really a plan for today, but when we told her about the fallow deer and the fox ..... Off to the AWD. A lot of fallow deer, but no fox. A nice walk, and despite the announced storm, it stays dry.


A pancake at Panneland, and on to IJmuiden. A quick detour to the sea at Bloemendaal aan Zee.
Meanwhile we arrived on the boat and already looked around. Rest and then eat. And that food was great.
South West storm. Wind force 9. And that wasn't so good for Petra. A little seasick. And she was far from the only one! Once in the bunk we all fell asleep quickly.

August 11 - Scotland

After a great breakfast, a quick shower, and a quick look on the deck as the boat entered the harbor, we set off. To Scotland. First to Jedburgh. A few photos of the abbey ruin and a coffee in the quirky book shop across the street. And on to Melrose. There is an even more famous abbey ruin. This time we did pay the £ 6 entrance fee per person. No, Elly receives a 60+ discount. For her it's £ 4.80. We also take the electronic guide. After an hour in the Scottish rain we think it is enough, and we drive on to our hotel for the following 2 nights: The Rocks, in Dunbar. Looks cosy, and great rooms.
And then, NO !! Bass Rock is cancelled *. Too much swell. What a disappointment. We immediately call them for alternatives call. "Yes, sorry" "We both run the catamaran and the RIB tomorrow". We book the RIB, the best alternative.
Tonight we have dinner at the hotel.
* It was only after we had booked that we discovered 50% of the trips were being cancelled. Very unfortunate, but nothing to be done about it.

 12 August - Bass rock

No landing, so time for a good Full Scottish breakfast. That's great. Then direction North Berwick. First with a stop at Tantallon Castle. What a gigantic ruin. With beautiful information boards, helping you to imagine yourself standing there in the early Middle Ages. Awesome.
Then, after lunch, on the RIB. Always nice to be at sea. And what are the Gannets, and their chicks, beautiful. Petra is still struggling to enjoy it, she would have loved to be on the island.
Tired and satisfied we head for the hotel. We also have dinner there. It tastes great.


August 13 - St. Abbs Head

Breakfast, check out and on to our next destination: Bamburgh. First stop is St. Abbs Head. A walk over a cliff, with beautiful sea views, to a lighthouse. And what a view. Man man, how beautiful it is here. Elly finds the first stretch a bit exciting. She is afraid of heights and the path runs close to the cliff. At the end of the route a beautiful bay. Back along the loch.

Then with the car down to the town of St. Abbs. Not suitable for larger vehicles as very clearly indicated above, before you enter the town. Our car is not that big and it is going fine. We even find a parking space. Off to the cafe. It is busy and pleasant. And they have fresh crab sandwiches. Yes! Ordering is easy. Finding a place is a bit more difficult. Fortunately we can join two older, chatty, ladies. "Yes, it's his name and his name is Coco, like the clown". No idea who that clown is. Apparently she wanted a bitch, they didn't have one, and she had already chosen the name. All right.
What is that? A German with a camper van is coming down the narrow road. Well. And then? Back because that thing is way too big for here! Turning the big thing with millimeters to spare left and right, and back up.
It is also time for us to move on. Just before we arrive we take a quick look at the Causeway to Holy Island. It is high tide so the sea is over the road. Great for Petra to get her feet wet. Moments later the gigantic castle looms up for us, we have arrived in Bamburgh.

After a downpour of an hour it clears up and the weather is beautiful. We go to the beach along the castle. What a great beach, with nice rollers on the sea. We end the day at the Potted Lobster, a delicious dinner.
[26 years together today ]

August 14 - Holy Island

Not really a plan for today. "Back to Holy Island?" Fine! This time we can cross the Causeway. A few months ago we first heard about Holy Island through the "Rond de Noordzee" program, which aired on Dutch TV. We had the impression that Holy Island was something small and unknown. Not really. It was a lot bigger than we expected, and everyone knew about it. Man, what a lot of tourists. After some pictures, especially of the many many seals on the sandbank, we thought it is enough and we drove on. To Low Newton at the Sea. Nice ride, but impossible to park, not as nice as hoped and it rained a lot. We looked a little further.
Further on we see another castle ruin. Then go that way. It's Dunstanburgh Castle, near Craster. Looked nice from a distance. What we didn't know is that it was a half-hour walk from the parking lot. And therefore also half an hour back. We don't have that much time left, so turned around half way. A quick Kipper sandwich, a Scone and 2 coffees at the eatery * at the parking lot and on to the boat. Time to sail back to the Netherlands.
We booked dinner on arrival and now check what time slots are still available: 8:15 pm! Then to Rose', from the Orca organisation, presentation about the dolphins and whales in the North Sea. Very nice. The sea it is too gray and choppy to see anything. Only some Gannets hanging around the boat. A nice "Goodbye" from England.
[The boat turned, Elly said after she had gone the wrong way]
* Because I didn't know what the other specialty, the World Famous Auchtermuchty, was, I went looking for it back at home and I found them: the Pipers Pitch.

August 15 - At home

Packing, having breakfast and then, just after 10 o'clock, get off the boat. Drop Elly at Schiphol, and on to Maastricht.

Saturday, August 3, 2019

Shared Dreams

We met Jolanda and in February 2012 at Deep Blue View, Bonaire, and stayed in contact through Facebook ever since. Last year we had a lovely afternoon with them at the Onze Lieve Vrouw Plein terraces in our home town Maastricht. It must have been around that time that we found it that going to Antarctica was a shared dream. They have planned a big South America trip, which is topped off by an Antarctica trip (they will be on the M/V Ushuaia, on the Weddell Sea Quest), arriving back in Ushuaia just a week and a bit before we head out if I am not mistaken.
In preparation and to log the trip they have started a blog:

Friday, June 14, 2019

Monk Haven Manor


Ibis - June 13

Smooth drive to Amsterdam - Schiphol. We, again, just missed the bus to the hotel. Good to arrive back in the bird wallpaper room.

Green Bridge - June 14

Same guy at the Europe Car desk. Not so chatty as last time. To busy to sell some upgrades I guess. And also not needed. A brand new Vauxhall Crossland X. Wow.
First stop Saundersfoot for a pint and fish and chips. Than on to find the Green Bridge. Good I had checked Google Maps at home as I immediately recognised where we had to turn in. And yes! It was open! It's behind a tank range, so if there is a military practice then you can't go there.
We first see the Stack Rocks, full of Guillemots. Petra is jumping up and down of excitement. After a bunch of pictures we walk on to the famous Green Bridge of Wales. Such a wonderful scenery. 




Time for our last stint, to our BnB. We are welcomed by Jo. Up to "our" room. So good be back.
For dinner we decide to go to the Brook Inn. Just a smile bite. We pick the soup of the day: carrot and coriander, with Welsh Cedar on the side and a pint of Welsh lager. A very very good choice. Time to tuck in. Tomorrow we hope to see the Puffins. Fingers crossed.

Skomer - June 15


The sun is out, the sky is blue. No idea when this happened as predictions weren't that great. It's a lovely day. I checked Twitter: boats to Skomer are running! And we have red tickets. The first boat out. Yes.
Already on the boat we see the Puffins. Also Gannetts in the sky. Guillemots and Razorbills on the cliffs. Skomer is a dream. Off we go, to the Wick. And again we find no reason to go anywhere else .... maybe next time 😀




We manage to squeeze in at The Griffin in Dale for a quick and good dinner. I tried a Welsh Ale. Not bad at all.
As the weather is looking doubtful tomorrow we decide not to go back to Skomer, but keep the memory of the brilliant day today was. We plan to sleep longer and go to Marloes Sands. Low tide at 12 something.

Marloes - June 16

After breakfast I try to arrange the boat trip for Tuesday morning. Bummer. Voyages of Discovery doesn't run Monday nor Tuesday morning, the guys from Dale, the company that took us to Skomer yesterday, will only run the cruise on Monday - which is the regular boat, not the RIB, and Falcon didn't pick up, but I left a voicemail.
Off to Marloes Sands it is. We take the red marked path, passing by Runwayskiln where we plan to have lunch, on through the fields to the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. We go to the right until 'Rainy Rock', and than turn around to end up on the beach around low tide. Man, this is a gorgeous beach. Even without the sun being out like last year.




On our return we walk in to the Runwayskiln. Full and a lot of screaming children. No, not us. We walk back to the car and drive to St. Ishmael's to have a good lunch at the Brook Inn. Maybe back for a pint and a soup tonight. We'll see.
( yes we did 😉)

Lilly Ponds - June 17

No plans for today, so we finally decide to return to the Green Bridge. But first I try to book a boat trip for tomorrow, as Falcon indicated they only leave at 10:30, which is way too late for us. I first try Dale for a Grassholm cruise. "Sorry, we don't run any boats tomorrow". Second try is Thousand Islands in St. David's. They do have a trip at 9, which I can pre-cooked, but they need some more guests to confirm it. I provide my credit card details and agree to call them around 5, in case I they don't come back to me before, to check if the trip is on.
Now, off to the Green Bridge. Just before we arrive we decide to go to Stackpole and stop at Barafundle Bay Beach. Lovely place but the weather is not so good. Drizzle turns into rain.
We decide to drive around to Bosherton to stop at Lilly Ponds. Good choice as this is a beautiful place. The path around also takes us to the very nice Broadhaven Beach, with a view on Church Rock. Pity for the rain ....
Finally we go to the Green Bridge. Yes, it's open! So nice to see all the Guillemots and Razorbills on the rocks. And the bridge is still adorable too.
Hungry. Still didn't touch our packed lunch. Hmmm. Let's go to Little Haven and have something simple there. Almost 45 to drive ... . Just before Pembroke we decide to stop there and grab something. In the pub I get a call from Thousand Islands. Yes. The trip is on! Diner is served. Not brilliant, but good enough. Back to Monk Haven it is. A long, but very nice day!

Thousand Islands - June 18

Alarm at 6:00. Yes, ridiculously early for a holiday. But we're on a mission: boat trip. First pack and checkout. A last hug from Jo and we leave the ever so lovely Monk Haven Manor BnB. Don't worry Pomba, we'll be back ! St. Justinian's is only 20 Miles, but it will take almost an hour to get there. As always we're way too early. Surprised to see Voyages of Discovery are also running?! Ah. They head for Skomer. Maybe the charter they told me about. Any way.
There is six on the boat only. We first go to Grassholm, to see the Gannetts and the Seals. From there to the Light House, looking for Dolphins and more. Unfortunately the 'more' isn't there, neither are the Dolphins. Long way back to Ramsey Island. It's clearing up a bit, and all of us are starring over the sea. But luck is not with us today. It's only just before we are back that we get a quick glance of some Porpoise. At least we say them. Any way, it's always nice to be at sea and try to spot stuff. Even if you don't see all. At least we saw many Puffins. And also some Manx Shearwaters. The ones that sleep on Skomer and stay at sea all day.



Time to go. Two-and-a-half hours to the airport are smooth, except for the final 4 Miles or so.
We're now in the plane, almost ready to land at Schiphol. From there another two-and-a-half hours drive home. Back to Towser, Morris and Finnley.