Thursday, February 19, 2009

The Big Apple

Van New York 2009

New York had been on our 'wish list' of places to go to for a long time, but it never came to a reality. A very affordable flight from AirBerlin and Jos turning 40 this year provided enough 'excuse' to finally do it.

How disappointing it was when AirBerlin announced cancelling their flights to New York, a dream fell apart. But luckily only for a few days. Through Orbitz Petra soon found an offer almost as good as with AB: Brussels - Amsterdam - New York, outbound with KLM/Air France & New York - Brussels with Delta Airlines.

And than the hotel. Tripadvisor, as always, showed again to be a very good guide. After looking at the pro's and con's of several options we choose the New York Palace. From there on the Euro/Dollar exchange rate helped us improve our deal (as the booking was easy to cancel - for free). Our final booking was including Executive Lounge, money very well spent retrospectively.

All set, the trip could start!

Thursday February 19th
Leaving home early, trying to avoid the traffic jams around Brussels. We flew to Amsterdam withKLM (1724). Since we only had an hour and a half to transfer in Amsterdam, and knowing from past experience that flights to the US tend to close boarding early and take quite some time to board (security checks), we were not too pleased with the 'missing' passenger that caused quite a delay leaving Brussels. Fortunately he showed up before they found his luggage, so we could take off.

At Amsterdam boarding was fast and smooth, no security interview at all (!). Must have been due to recent mandatory filling out of all your details on the web [ESTA].

After a smooth flight [KLM641] we arrived in New York on time.

The pre-booked hotel transfer with Super Shuttle took us to the hotel in an hour and a half. Mainly the traffic jam to cross the bridge from Queens to Manhattan was root cause to that.

At the New York Palace we were offered room 3117. Thirty First floor with a direct view on the famous St. Patricks Cathedral.
Van New York 2009
Although we had been mailing the hotel for this favour, not having paid for it (on the hotels website, rooms with this view are almost double priced!) we felt very lucky to actually have been given this room.

Our next positive surprise was the Executive Lounge. Although we couldn't access it that night (re-carpeting), we had a good taster of what it was like, as we were offered a 'dinner snack menu' and drinks for free in the down stairs bar&restaurant. Exactly what we needed after a long exhausting trip.

Finally, a nice bed to sleep in :-)

Friday February 20th

On our first day in New York we decided to explore. On foot of course, as NY is the only city on the US where a car is not mandatory for transportation. From Petra's 'research' it was clear that the best views are on the roof of the Rockefeller building, better known as Top Of The Rock. It may not be as high as the Empire State Building, but here you have a view ON the Empire State Building! We decided to buy tickets for the evening as well, so we could see NY by night later that day.

Stunning views from Top of the Rock, where pictures a are better than words.
Van New York 2009
From there we walked Down Town on 5th Avenue, looking for a shop that didn't exist. We continued until we reach NY's oldest, and one of it's best known skyscrapers: The Flatiron. Pretty strange to see that the first skyscraper had such an odd shape.
Van New York 2009

We decided that 22nd street was far enough (we started at 53rd!), and returned towards Up Town. We walked over Broadway to Macy's. Macy's, a must do according the city guides we brought along. But what a disappointment in reality, old and run down. The 'promised' high end atmosphere was nowhere to be found. After browsing through Victoria's Secret we walked on to Time Square and finally back to the hotel.

Let's see what this lounge really has to offer. The breakfast may have been good (next to the American Breakfast standard of scrambled eggs, bacon, baked potato, French toast and cornflakes, lots of food for a hungry bear: Blue Berries, Strawberries, Raspberries, ..... ).

Not bad, not bad at all. Manhattan Clam Chowder, wraps, sandwiches, etc, etc. A good idea to have come back and check this out!

After lunch we decided to offset Macy's with a look in the real high end candy store: Saks. The opposite to Macy's and THE place to go to see what may be just a little bit too expense. Never seen so many designers together under one roof. Not to speak about the shoe department, more looked like a museum.

From there we walked toward Central Park as Petra really wanted to see the NY Marlies Dekkers store, located in the New York Plaza Hotel. Knowing before we left to NY that this was on our 'To Do List", we had a "Speaking of the Devil" moment when arriving in JFK International Airport the previous day. Marlies (yes, THE) was standing in front of us at the US Border at Immigration. Unfortunately she was already AT the officers desk, so you can't say hi.

The shop clearly showed that the concept is similar world wide, as it looked like the store in Maastricht (which we like better). Although the shop is a little tucked away, it is for sure a great accomplishment to have a store in NY, in such a High End and famous hotel!

Back to the hotel for our 'lounge' dinner. After which we went back to the Top of the Rock for night view over Manhattan.
Van New York 2009

Just before calling it a day, we had a last stop at the lounge to taste the deserts and have a nice glass of wine. The end of a nice, but cold, day in NY.

Saturday February 21st
Having walked all Friday (enough), we now chose traveling using the Subway today. Also because the plan was to go to The Statue of Liberty, and that was simply too far to walk. Getting onat Lexinton and 51st, we took 6 and 4 to get to Bowling Green. We walked up to Clinton Castle, from where the Ferry brought us to Liberty Island.

Beautiful blue skies during this time of the year means that it was cold, very cold. On the Ferry the camera froze up several times. Luckily not constant, so there are some nice pictures.
Van New York 2009

After taking in the views on Manhattan, we entered the Statue itself. Obviously the security measures had been stepped up significantly due to Nine Eleven. Entering the Statue makes boarding a plane look easy! It took about an hour to get through all security to finally get in. And then it is today only possible to enter up to the Statues supporting base, the actual Statue is still closed for the public.

As we just missed the Ferry coming down a little too late, we decided to quickly take a bite at the local 'restaurant'. Yuk, , not a good idea. Fast food worst case.

Next stop: Ellis Island. This has been the main entrance for all immigrants to the US in late 1800 and early 1900. Very interesting for Americans, not too interesting for us. Anyway, like all Americans we also checked the names engraved at Ellis Island, but we couldn't find our family names anywhere. Obviously our families stayed in Europe.

After having seen historical must do's we took the subway to SoHo. What a nice place with nice small shops. Quite difference from Up Town where our hotel was located.

The NY guide books we brought advised us to have lunch/dinner at Lupa. And what a good advise that was. Gnocchi, Spaghetti and Saltimbuca was our, very very, good choice. A feast (despite of the European speed of serving: we were hungry).

After a quick tour through SoHo we went back to the Hotel to get the cold out of our bones with a warm bath. Evening at the lounge, reviewing the day and planning the next over a good glass of red wine and a taste of the wonderful deserts.
Van New York 2009


Sunday February 22nd


We still had a few things on our list of things to see: Brooklyn Bridge and Ground Zero. Going Down Town we experienced the inefficiency of the NY subway (or was it just a Sunday, or maybe us?). We had to get from an express train onto a local train to get to Ground Zero, which never seemed to arrive. So we decided to go to the Brooklyn Bridge first.
Van New York 2009

From there we went to Ground Zero on foot. Strange place. You expect a huge open space in the middle of a skyscraper forest, but in reality it didn't look that big. To think that two such huge buildings have stood there AND collapsed there! As there is actually nothing to see and since, knowing what happened there, the place still gives you a strange feeling (going there as a tourist), we decided to move on: back to SoHo as we enjoyed it so much the day before.

This resulted in subway disaster two. Firstly, many subways around Ground Zero are out of order. This shouldn't be a surprise, but it is not indicated clearly* and as a tourist one doesn't know which is and which isn't. Than after finally found one that was operated, it only was for local trains. Which, again, were scares.

* New York subways & streets: we assumed a busy city as New York, where millions of tourists room, would have a well indicated and modern subway. What a contrary to the actual situation. Subway entrances are not indicated (like London, Hong Kong, etc), you simply stumble over a whole in the pavement: hey a subway entrance. And the subway itself looks very old and run down once you go under ground.
Another contrast to expectations was how busy the city was. Where one is warned by the guide books to avoid certain hours due to loads of pedestrians, and clogged up traffic, we had the impression that one could blindfolded cross the streets. Go to London and you learn what busy is. It underlines that busy is a state of mind (only).

In the afternoon we had a nice stroll up and down 5th and 6th street, taking in and checking out the shops and atmosphere. In the evening we went back to the hotel lounge to enjoy the first part of the Academy Awards.

Monday February 23rd
A very nice long weekend break was nearing its end. This afternoon would be picked up to leave for the airport. As the whether had returned to the beautiful blue skies of the first two days without the biting cold wind, we walked further North this morning to enjoy the views on New York from the famous Central Park. This must be a very relaxing place for all people living on Manhattan, especially in summer when one can lay in the sun.

Van New York 2009

At 14:25 hours we were picked up to leave for JFK Airport. Our flight Delta Airlines (DL140) left from Terminal 3. This terminal makes Antwerp airport look modern. My god, this couldn't be the US, it more felt like Kazachstan! Due to the intensive security measures we had to check in AT LEAST three hours before the flight. Within less than 15min after saying goodbye to the driver from Super Shuttle we arrived at our gate (?).

With so much time to waste and an 'airport shopping list' in our head, we desperately looked for the Duty Free Shopping zone: a kiosk is bigger.

As we had noticed that Terminal 4 was significant bigger and the majority of the international flights left here, we asked the Information desk whether we could go there and shop. Sure, was the answer. With high hopes we went to Terminal 4 and found the shopping paradise we anticipated to find on an international airport as big as JFK. What a disappointment it was to hear at the check out, after finding exactly what we were looking for, at a very good price AND with a sensational free gift, that the shops in Terminal 4 can only sell to people flying from Terminal 4 as they can only do Gate delivery at Terminal 4.

Not amused we returned to Terminal 3, empty handed.

Smiles returned back on our face when we understood that our flight was almost empty (114 seats unassigned on a Boeing 757). Everybody could take three seats and so we did.

Tuesday February 24th
Despite of the short flight (6 and bit hours), we arrived after 'good' night sleep in Brussels. Time to pick up the car and drive home back to our cats.

A wonderful long weekend break had ended.

Wednesday, December 31, 2008

El Quseir

Back to the Marsa Alam region, but this time a little further north: Radisson SAS El Quseir. The diving school was the same as last years in Brayka Bay: Extra Divers.

El Quseir 2008




Our logbook
Abu Sawatir : Galery 2008 Quseir El> [57min / 22.9m]
  • Red Annemone & clown fish
  • Blue Spotted Stingray
  • Lion Fish
Radisson SAS House Reef [59min / 23.5m]
  • Scorpion Fish
  • Lion Fish
  • Giant Moray Eel
  • Clown Fish
  • Groothoorn Nembrotha
  • Pyama Slak
Makluf [55min / 25.6m]
  • Blue Spotted Stingray
  • Witoog Mureen
  • Geelgevlekte Egelvis
  • Start and end of the dive through a Canyon
Zebir Kebir South [63min / 21.4m]
  • Blue Spotted Stingray
  • Baby Baracuda's
  • Very nice dive through coral garden canyons
Green Hole [59min / 21.3m]
  • Baby Blue Spotted Stingray
  • Very nice dive
Mangrove Bay [61min / 25.0m]
  • Hawksbill Turtle
Marsa Waleed [65min / 21.6m]
  • Two Turtles
  • Giant Moray Eel
  • Blue Spotted Stingray
  • Lion Fish
Bet Goha [60min / 25.9m]
  • Baby Eagle Ray (!)
  • Group of Baracuda's
  • Many Shrimp & Gobies
  • Scorpion Fish
  • Very nice dive
Abu Kafan [64min / 30.8m]
  • Clown Fish
  • Wratslak'
  • Giant Moray Eel
  • Very Beautiful Reef
Panoram Reef [62min / 22.4m]
  • Napoleon Fish
  • Torpedo Ray
  • Stone Fish
  • Big Grouper
  • Groothoorn Nembrotha
  • 'Nemo City'
Shaab Rahma [65min / 16.8m]
  • Turtle
  • Grootbek Makrelen (school)
  • Batfish
  • Yellow Tail Baracuda's
Abu Sawatir [65min / 21.9m]
  • Baby Eagle Ray (!)
  • Turtle
  • Dartfish
  • Big Grouper
  • Many Blue Spotted Stingrays
  • Lion Fish
Zebir Kebir North [58min / 28.9m]
  • School of Squid
  • Clown Fish
  • Big Grouper
  • Grootbek Makrelen (school)
  • Blue Spotted Stingray
Radisson House Reef [38min / 23.5m]
  • Nice dive, but a little short :-)
Radisson House Reef [68min / 24.2m]
  • Giant Moray Eel
  • Clolwn Fish'
  • Many Coral Crabs
  • Shrimp (?) in coral (couldn't find this one in my book, it looked like a herimite)
  • Very very nice dive!
Abu Saaf [60min / 24.0m]
  • Giant Moray Eel
  • Lion Fish
  • Blue Spotted Stingray
  • Tuna
  • Wratslak
  • Rüppels Wratslak

Saturday, December 27, 2008

Madagascar

Sometimes it takes a long time before a dream becomes reality. Sometimes a dream never progresses beyond being a dream. This time the dream was put to a reality quite fast.

What triggered the dream is not 100% clear. Was it the movie? Was it documentaries on National Geographic? A combination of both most likely. The lemurs in both for sure played a key role!

Inspired by the thought of seeing these groovy, wooly animals we started browsing the brochures and websites on trips to Madagascar. Eventually we found a itinerary with nice combination of site seeing and romantic relaxing at a dutch travel agent. Unfortunately for them their response was very slow (still pending actually) and most likely too expensive (based on the offers on their webpage). And, we found a local agent in Madagascar (most likely their local agent as well), who had a track record of 20 years of sustainable and award winning international tourisem in Madagascar.

They were fast and affordable, so within a week or so we booked. Another dream will be a reality.

Our Program:



Day 1 - Paris / Antananarivo B
Welcome at the airport on the flight from Paris on Air France. Transfer to the hotel.
1 night at PAVILLON DE L'EMYRNE on bed and breakfast.


PAVILLON DE L'EMYRNE - A charming hotel in a traditional merina building of the 30s. A subtle mixture of the past with antiques, portraits of the kings and Queens of Madagascar and modern / design decoration. 10 comfortable rooms, all different, (amongst which 2 standard and 8 superior categories) all equipped with television, reversible air-conditioning and wifi facilities.
In the heart of Isoraka area known for its numerous good restaurants, Le Pavillon de l'Emyrne is a place where you feel good.
A little restaurant unit just for the clients and a warm atmosphere. An address with personality not to be missed.
www.pavillondelemyrne.com


Day 2 - Antananarivo / Anjozorobe BLD
In the morning, we leave for Anjozorobe primary forest (100 km - 2h30).
Arrival in Anjozorobe, one of the last vestiges of dense rainforest on the high plateaux, is a source of life for the population and harbours an enormous biodiversity: With its 11 species of lemurs (Indri, Propitecus Diadema, Microcebus…), 82 bird species (amongst which 43 are endemic), 423 plants (amongst 65% endemic), this forest is a dreamland for nature lovers and birdwatchers. BOOGIE PILGRIM has built an upmarket lodge, MANANARA LODGE, which is ready to greet guests since may 2007.
1 night at MANANARA LODGE on fullboard.


MANANARA LODGE's 5 semi tented / concrete bungalows are nestled in the vegetation, hiding lovers from their neighbours, and facing the forest : all have double bed, en suite bathroom with bathtub, a chimney for cosy winter evenings, and a little veranda. Our glass walled restaurant with terrace boasts splendid views on the forest. But what is mostly going to amaze you is the great tranquillity : we are far from civilization, from roads and villages… And all the sounds of the forests, the screams of the lemurs, song of birds are enhanced; And at night, the Milky Way shines bright in the sky.
You can choose from a large variety of short walks in the forest (we also bring you along for night walks to spot the nocturnal species). Discover traditional crayfish trapping or visit the local essential oil distillery... MANANARA LODGE works hand in hand with NGO Fanamby to protect environment and involve inhabitants in ecotourism. We inaugurated a school in 2005, and guests are welcome to visit school and make donations. All this efforts for sustainable tourism have been rewarded in 2005, when BOOGIE PILGRIM won worldwide contest DRV for ecotourism achievement.


Day 3 - Anjozorobe / Andasibe BD
Morning to explore the forest. Then, drive to Andasibe National Park ( 250 km - 5h30 ).
2 nights VAKONA FOREST LODGE on halfboard.
VAKONA FOREST LODGE (Périnet National Park – Andasibe)
Located in an eucalyptus plantation, 7kms away from the Périnet National Park entrance,



VAKONA FOREST LODGE is the most comfortable hotel of this area. The 26 bungalows are spread in a large domain, they are spacious, with a good bathroom, electric heaters, mini bar, safe and terrace. Different activities are proposed to the hotel guests such as a swimming pool, horse riding, squash, mountain bikes…
Cosy fireplace in the restaurant, overlooking a lake. Also a crocodile farm and a “lemurs island” on the site.


Day 4 - Andasibe BD
Morning to observe the fauna and flora of the Andasibe Park. We wake up early, because in the morning, lemurs are very active, and we might spot the biggest of all lemurs, the Indri-Indri..
We will also take the time to visit the private reserve of the hotel, where a traditional Betsimisaraka village has been constructed : you will learn all about the village and homes of this ethnic group of the eastern coast: the orientation of the rooms of their houses, the room of the ancestors…
Afternoon visit of the Lodge's private reserve. Night tour to spot nocturnal animals.


Day 5 - Andasibe / Antananarivo B
Drive back to Antananarivo (155 km – 03h00).
1 night at PAVILLON DE L'EMYRNE on bed and breakfast.


Day 6 - Antananarivo/ Diego Suarez (Antsiranana) BLD
After breakfast transfer to the airport for flight to Diego Suarez on MD314/366 07h50 – 09h55.
Full day to explore Diego and its 3 bays (with picnic lunch on the beach) : Sakalava Bay, Pigeons Bay and Dunes Bay. Of course, we will also be told about Diego’s Pirates’ History and see bay of Diego and its sugar loaf. Picnic lunch.
1 night at Hotel ALLAMANDA on halfboard.


ALLAMANDA HOTEL is located near the harbour, by the sea, 10min from city. We specially recommend for the nice sea view and the tranquillity. The 12 rooms and junior suites are in different concrete buildings, set in a tropical garden. All the rooms are comfortable but classic, with A/C, satellite TV, balcony or terrace, safe. Swimming pool, a restaurant with a seaview terrace..


Day 7 - Diego Suarez / Montagne d’Ambre BLD
Short car trip south of Diego (approx 45min), crossing Joffreville (Rest village for the French Army built in 1902) to visit Natural Park of Montagne d’Ambre: this volcanic range offers several botanical trails, crater lakes, great cascades and provides home for wildlife ranging from rare reptiles amongst which the brookesia minima the smallest chameleons, lemurs (crowned lemurs, sanford lemurs, fulvus lemurs...) and 70 species of birds. Picnic lunch.
Dinner and night at NATURE LODGE.


NATURE LODGE is a cosy lodge, full of personality 10 bungalows only, blending in the vegetation, and all overlooking Diego’s Bay and its sugar loaf. Each bungalow has a double bed, private shower and WC and balcony.
www.naturelodge-ambre.com


Day 8 - Ankarana BLD
3h by car to reach exceptional Park of Ankarana where we will see the famous stone formations called “ Tsingy ”. We will also discover the nearby bat filled grottos (with stalagmites and stalactites), underground rivers… During our walk, we will see Xerophyte plants such as kalanchoes, bottle-trees, euphorbias and are likely to encounter our agile fluffy friends, the lemurs! The Antakarana consider the Ankarana massif as sacred: in past, the Antakarana fleeing the Merina took refuge in the Ankarana caves and tsingy; many of their kings are buried there. Picnic lunch.
1 night on CAMPING.


Day 9 - Ankarana / Ankify / Nosy Komba BLD
Continuation of the excursion in Ankarana. Then route to Ankify. On the way, we will see coffee, cacao, ylang ylang, sugar cane and clove plantations and cross small towns of Ambilobe and Ambanja. Final destination of the day is Nosy Komba (30min by boat from Ankify).
Nosy Komba is a small volcanic island, with beautiful beaches and plenty of lemurs. If you can get out of your sun bed, follow the walking trails inland. A small paradise, a tropical island just as in your dreams! Nosy Komba is only 30 min boat from main island Nosy Be. Nosy Be is starting to get very touristic and busy: Nosy Komba is by far more tranquil and preserved.
Dinner & night at TSARA KOMBA


Tsara Komba : Only 6 spacious bungalows (75 to 95m²!) blending beautifully in a lush garden, coloured by bright purple bougainvilleas. Terrific view on the sea, beautiful and inventive decoration (precious wood, statues, canopy beds, zafimaniry chairs and chests…). A charming, luxurious, intimate and one of the most exclusive hotels in Mada. (Closed from mid January to end February).
www.tsarakomba.com


Day 10 : 16 - Nosy Komba BLD
Day at leisure or relax. FULL BOARD at TSARA KOMBA
You can visit the TANIKELY island, a protected marine reserve and a fantastic snorkelling spot: colourful corals, fish and occasionally sea turtles… A real aquarium!
18/10/09 Nosy Komba/Nosy Be/Antananarivo/Paris B
Boat to the port, then transfer to the airport and flight to Tanà by MD327 17h10 - 18h40.
Transfer at RELAIS DES PLATEAUX for a dayroom. Around 22h00 transfer to the airport for the return flight to Paris on Air France.


RELAIS DES PLATEAUX Hotel is the best accommodation available around the airport. 10 rooms and 1 suite, air conditioned, with satellite TV, all ground level. A swimming pool and a restaurant in nice gardens.


END OF SERVICES


Included :
meals and accommodation as mentionned each day (B : Breakfast, L : Lunch, D : Dinner), generally on halfboard basis except in Tanà on Bed&Breakfast and in Tsara Komba & Mananara Lodge on Fullboard basis
4WD with driver Tana / Anjozorobe / Andasibe / Tana and gas
entry fees in Andasibe & Anjozorobe
local guides and entry fees in 3 Baies, Montagne d’Ambre & Ankarana
boat transfer Ankify / Nosy komba / Port of Nosy Be
all transfers Apt/Hotel/Apt or port
touristic taxes


Not included:
international & domestic flights with supplement
meals not mentionned in the itinerary
excursions and activities proposed by hotels
visa, drinks, tips, personal insurance and personal expenses